How to use TC-420 to control Ldd drivers - The Planted Tank Forum
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post #1 of 82 (permalink) Old 01-01-2016, 07:27 PM Thread Starter
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How to use TC-420 to control Ldd drivers

got my parts and had some time to play w/ them.
Seems everything is fairly easy to modify.
FUN thing is you can actually (in theory) run both constant voltage and constant current on each channel..

Simple wire addition to the "gate" of the MOSFET
I attached 4 and left one off.. didn't need it for "the plan"..
Figured why push my luck.
First used one power supply (9V) to feed both the unit and LED's.
Attached added wire to the LDD PWM wire.
Worked perfectly,
Second tried 9v power to the unit and a secondary 24V power to the leds.
Only hooked 9 V to both +/- of the input.(basically just tc-420 power)
Took 24V and only added a ground (-) to the input connection in order to have a common ground.
also worked flawlessly..

anyone doing it though YMMV..

I do have some 24V strips that I could hook to the unit and run everything through the Input. don't see how it wouldn't work..

Anyways food for DIY thought..

It is only slightly cheaper than a Typhon though. You do get 1 more channel and a computer interface, and flexibility in LED driver type..

One last note : I didn't check all 4 yet but it shouldn't be an issue.. LDD PWM takes VERY little current..
Pieces of Cat5 wire is fine for the PWM gate circuit..




Strips and LDD running of the same channel:
https://youtu.be/1qm_5w7DDuA

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Last edited by jeffkrol; 01-01-2016 at 08:29 PM. Reason: edit
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post #2 of 82 (permalink) Old 01-04-2016, 05:07 PM
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One would do this mod to either get around the 4amp max per channel limitation or perhaps enable the use of LEDs with different voltage requirements right?

Can you draw some diagrams or take some pictures to show how the LDD driver is hooked up in relation to the TC420? I'm having a hard time picturing how it is hooked up based on your description.
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post #3 of 82 (permalink) Old 01-04-2016, 05:44 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pwu_1 View Post
One would do this mod to either get around the 4amp max per channel limitation or perhaps enable the use of LEDs with different voltage requirements right?

Can you draw some diagrams or take some pictures to show how the LDD driver is hooked up in relation to the TC420? I'm having a hard time picturing how it is hooked up based on your description.
first one would do it to dim constant current PWM controlled drivers. So yes, in a sense, to exceed the "limitations" of 4A per channel BUT not to control things like large Beamsworks..

for that you could, theoretically, replace the on board Mosfets *the 5 little squares in a column on the right side.
THOSE are what limits the current capacity..
you may be also able to cascade them (add another set of MOSFETS like we did above (using the internal MOSFETS to control another MOSFET )but that gets "complicated" )

As to the LDD arrangement, I'll scribble something up later..
Basicaly though on an LDD you have 5 wires.. The dim wire will go to the added wire to the tc420..
The rest depends on your power needs for the LDD strings.. IF you can get away w/ one that is within the 12-24 range you can 1)power the TC-420 and 2 power the string BUT bypassing (not connecting) anything to the MOSFET outputs (5 screws listed ch1,2 ect..)
An internal voltage regulator is what feeds the logic circuits..Actually that is why the TC will actually be powered by less than 12V in reality..I suspect you could go close to 5 and still get it to function.. BUT driving constant voltage LEDs w/ 5 volts is pretty silly for outr uses.. like 2 diodes in series and x parallel. up to 4A (ignore this it is probably more confusion than needed.. )

The "plus" on there is just common to both input and output..
If your ps exceeds 24V you really shoud use 2 ps 1 for the tc one for the leds.. Only catch is to creat a "common ground" 2 the 2 power supplies.

fortunately, in my case, my 56V DC ps has both a 5V and 12V rail..
so all I had to do was jack it into the other input (left side has a barrel jack for power). The ps formed the common ground.
Though I did use a 9v PS (actually more like 11) to power the TC-420 and a 24v ps for a LDD "test strip"..and a common ground .. worked fine..

just pretend the tc420 is the Storm
What they don't show its the power to the Storm (or TC in this case)
RED wires on the Strom coming from the PWM outs is the same as the added wires to the gate of the MOSFET (5v PWM signal)

as a side note the barrel plug size is the same as the one for the Typhon (same polarity as well so it was plug and play for me) from Steves, and prob same as the Storm X



considering the TC-420 is only marginally cheaper than a Typhon BUT w/ one more channel and a computer program interface, one would need to consider what they need..

I did it because I didn't want to build a box for the Typhon AND wanted to more easily reconfigure via USB..

build note.. Cat5 wires fit easily into the slot behind the screws BUT it is easier if you remove the screws first
Using the screw as a strain relief is also possible..

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Last edited by jeffkrol; 01-04-2016 at 06:02 PM. Reason: edit
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post #4 of 82 (permalink) Old 01-05-2016, 12:01 AM Thread Starter
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The most complicated setup. The 12-24V ps needn't be very strong.. and isn't "really" limited to that range BUT it is convenient:




Specs for the MOSFET. To be honest, I'm not sure why they limit the current to 4A.. These can take a lot more than that..
www.qualiteitems.com/images/09N03.pdf

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post #5 of 82 (permalink) Old 01-05-2016, 12:43 AM
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Looks like you have been busy with the TC420 :-)
Your 12:44pm picture is quite interesting except I am envisioning 3 Kessel type lights, each with a single white, some red, some blue, some green and some cyan LEDS. Now I just have to machine an aluminum housing to mount the LED's in :-)


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post #6 of 82 (permalink) Old 01-20-2016, 05:36 AM
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hi Jeffkrol, I hope you are still monitoring this thread. Anyways, I need some help from you if possible.
I bought a new light off fleabay, thinking I would be able to control/dim it using the TC-420. The light came today and I was wrong about the light and it turns out it is using a mean well LPC-60-1050 constant current driver. The Mean Well LPC-60-1050 takes an AC input and outputs up to 48 volts and 1050 ma constant current. That means the driver as is won't work with the TC-420.
So, I did some searches online tonight and found this other driver Mean Well LDH-45B-1050. The LDH-45B-1050 is a DC-DC boost constant current driver with input voltage of 18 volts to 32 volts and outputs 45.15Watts of power.
Here is the spec sheet--> http://www.meanwell-bg.com/files/Models/LDH-45-spec.pdf
So, my question to you is, I should be able to use the TC-420 to control the LDH-45B-1050 by soldering a wire to the MOSFET on the TC-420 and then connecting that to the PWM pin(pin 5) of the LDH-45B-1050 right? I have 2 of these lights and I want to add some RGB strips for ramp up/down so here is my plan.
1) Get 24 Volt DC regulated power supply, something like the mean well NES-350-24 power supply to power everything.
2) Get 24 Volt RGB LED strip
3) TC-420
4) LDH-45B-1050 constant current driver(2x)
I would connect it as follows:
MeanWell NES-350-240 to power everything so connected to the TC-420 and each of the LDH-45B-1050

TC-420, Channel 1,2,3 will be connected to the RGB light strip for Red,Green,Blue channel.

Channel 4 and Channel 5 will be modified to add a wire from the gate of the MOSFET to the PWM pin of the LDH-45B-1050. Each channel would get one LDH-45B-1050 so that I can control each light separately.

Do you see any issues with this plan? It should work right? Any advice you can give would be greatly appreciate it.
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post #7 of 82 (permalink) Old 01-20-2016, 01:05 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pwu_1 View Post
hi Jeffkrol, I hope you are still monitoring this thread. Anyways, I need some help from you if possible.
I bought a new light off fleabay, thinking I would be able to control/dim it using the TC-420. The light came today and I was wrong about the light and it turns out it is using a mean well LPC-60-1050 constant current driver. The Mean Well LPC-60-1050 takes an AC input and outputs up to 48 volts and 1050 ma constant current. That means the driver as is won't work with the TC-420.
So, I did some searches online tonight and found this other driver Mean Well LDH-45B-1050. The LDH-45B-1050 is a DC-DC boost constant current driver with input voltage of 18 volts to 32 volts and outputs 45.15Watts of power.
Here is the spec sheet--> http://www.meanwell-bg.com/files/Models/LDH-45-spec.pdf
So, my question to you is, I should be able to use the TC-420 to control the LDH-45B-1050 by soldering a wire to the MOSFET on the TC-420 and then connecting that to the PWM pin(pin 5) of the LDH-45B-1050 right? I have 2 of these lights and I want to add some RGB strips for ramp up/down so here is my plan.
1) Get 24 Volt DC regulated power supply, something like the mean well NES-350-24 power supply to power everything.
2) Get 24 Volt RGB LED strip
3) TC-420
4) LDH-45B-1050 constant current driver(2x)
I would connect it as follows:
MeanWell NES-350-240 to power everything so connected to the TC-420 and each of the LDH-45B-1050

TC-420, Channel 1,2,3 will be connected to the RGB light strip for Red,Green,Blue channel.

Channel 4 and Channel 5 will be modified to add a wire from the gate of the MOSFET to the PWM pin of the LDH-45B-1050. Each channel would get one LDH-45B-1050 so that I can control each light separately.

Do you see any issues with this plan? It should work right? Any advice you can give would be greatly appreciate it.
24V ribbons or 12V makes little difference.

But if I understand this correctly it would only mean changing from a NES-350-240 to a NES 350-120.
The step up driver is unaffected by the change...

AFAICT it should work as you are designing.

How many diodes and power for the constant current fixture you bought?
Off hand don't know of any LED commercial fixtures that use that Meanwell driver..

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post #8 of 82 (permalink) Old 01-20-2016, 02:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeffkrol View Post
24V ribbons or 12V makes little difference.

But if I understand this correctly it would only mean changing from a NES-350-240 to a NES 350-120.
The step up driver is unaffected by the change...

AFAICT it should work as you are designing.

How many diodes and power for the constant current fixture you bought?
Off hand don't know of any LED commercial fixtures that use that Meanwell driver..
Hi jeff,
Its a aquatic life 36 inch 1 watt led fixture. Made for Marine tanks.
Right now on ebay they are clearing them out for 39.99 + 7.99 shipping
It has 36 1 watt leds but since the fixture was made for marine tanks the leds are a mixture of blue/white/purple leds. I ripped out all the blue ones and ordered some 6500k leds from china. I figured even if I break the led strip I still have a very good and nice looking heatsink for doing DIY(much better construction than beamswork)
The current configuration is a bit complicated(to me anyways). there are 2 strips of lights, each strip has 18 leds broken down into sets of 6 leds in series and then 3 groups of the 6 leds in parallel. Then, the 2 strips are connected in series so I guess the math works as follows:
1050ma/3 = 350ma. So 350ma going into each of the 6 leds on each strip and then the 2 strips in series means it'll potentially draw up to 21 volts each(3.2 typical forward voltage X 6) strip, X2 so total voltage of around 40-42 volts.
Anyway, I thought about it some more and I already have a 15 volt adjustable power supply(adjustable 12.5 to 18 volts) and 12 volt rgb strips purhased for my failed beamswork DIY. So, I got the LDH-45A-1050 driver instead and I will drive the LDH with about 12.5-13 volts and the rgb strips will be slightly over driven.
But I'm really hoping this will work since I really like how the TC-420 enables me to control the light

I'll update and let you know if I can get this working
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post #9 of 82 (permalink) Old 01-20-2016, 03:22 PM Thread Starter
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you got my attention...

Quote:
purhased for my failed beamswork DIY.

"A man with a watch knows what time it is. A man with two watches is never sure"
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post #10 of 82 (permalink) Old 01-20-2016, 03:59 PM
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you got my attention...
oh, when i say "failed" I mean it wasn't as bright as I had hoped it was going to be.
Everything works as I thought it should. So far the rgb strips and the beamswork Pent has been running fine on 14 volt input voltage.
The two big things are 1) I don't think it is bright enough for my needs. 2) The light gets very hot when I have the Pent and the 3 rows white 5630 running on full blast. It is winter now so it'll probably work for a while(only been running a few days since I'm just cycling the tank right now) but I can see things getting way too hot once the weather warms. I didn't like the idea of adding fans because having taken the end caps off the beamswork, I don't think heat dissipation is very good on the beamswork,
Then I found this aquatic life and read about changing LEDs and decided to try that instead.
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post #11 of 82 (permalink) Old 01-20-2016, 04:37 PM Thread Starter
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Ahhh thanks..
T
Quote:
he light gets very hot when I have the Pent and the 3 rows white 5630 running on full blast.

though technically somewhat expected w/ "overdriving" the strips.. it is good to have verification..

by chance, and I know it will be way less light than wanted, did you try firing the Beamswork w/ just 12V? Can't remember if you did.
If it even "lit" it should be fairly dull..

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post #12 of 82 (permalink) Old 01-20-2016, 05:59 PM
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Ahhh thanks..
T


though technically somewhat expected w/ "overdriving" the strips.. it is good to have verification..

by chance, and I know it will be way less light than wanted, did you try firing the Beamswork w/ just 12V? Can't remember if you did.
If it even "lit" it should be fairly dull..
The power supply I have only goes down to about 12.4 volts as measured using my voltmeter.
at 12.4 volts the beamswork still lights up but yes, much dimmer.
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post #13 of 82 (permalink) Old 01-21-2016, 03:59 PM
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Hi Jeff I'm just looking at the Pin out for the Meanwell LDH driver and I have a question about how you hooked up the PWM wires.
So there is a + and - wire for PWM dimming. From the TC420, I would need to hook the common + to the PWM Dim + of the LDH driver(pin 5) and then the wire from the MOSFET to the Dim -of the LDH driver(Pin 3) right?'

Actually I just looked at your diagram, looks like I would hook it up like this instead
the + wire on the PWM dimming would be connected to the + of my 12Volt power supply
the - wire on the PWM dimming would be connected to the wire that I solder from the MOSFET.

The common + of the TC420 output would not be used to drive the PWM dimming circuit. That sound about right?

Last edited by pwu_1; 01-21-2016 at 04:10 PM. Reason: added info
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post #14 of 82 (permalink) Old 01-21-2016, 04:43 PM Thread Starter
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There is only one PWM wire..The white one is PWM DC "in" (5V positive or so)
2 DC (R,Bk) in 2 DC out (Y,Bl)

PWM white wire goes to the gate of the MOSFET..which is either 0 or 5v + depending on "state".

ignore the MOSFET for a moment.. it is just like this:

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Last edited by jeffkrol; 01-21-2016 at 05:06 PM. Reason: edit
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post #15 of 82 (permalink) Old 01-21-2016, 05:01 PM
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The LDH boost driver has 7 pins. 1 PWM + , 1 analog +, 1 PWM/Analog -

spec sheet here: http://www.meanwell-bg.com/files/Models/LDH-45-spec.pdf

The output from the MOSFET, is that + or -?
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