Removing rim from 40 breeder safe? - The Planted Tank Forum
 
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post #1 of 7 (permalink) Old 12-15-2015, 12:35 AM Thread Starter
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Removing rim from 40 breeder safe?

I'm looking to use some tight radius attachments and the rim just gets in the way some I'm wondering if anyone has done this and had it run safely for a long period of time, I've done this only for a 20 long and it worked out fine but this is a little taller. Any input welcomed I likely won't remove the bottom rim since there is no reason to, my stand has a facade that covers the bottom rim and some of the substrate.

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post #2 of 7 (permalink) Old 12-15-2015, 01:00 AM
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I would strongly suspect removing the rim would not be an issue. I have a 40g breeder sitting in the garage - there is no center brace like my 75g has. The center brace is in place to keep the top of the longest panel from bowing excessively when filled with water. Don't remember the exact web site, but, if you search for DIY aquarium there are several sites that are basically construction calculators. You put in the size of the various panels (i.e. 36" x 17" x 1/4" and the calculator will tell you how much the glass will bow. There is also a X% safety factor built into the calculations. Figure out how thick the 40g breeder glass is and see how it fits into the calculation. My guess would be you will be fine.


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post #3 of 7 (permalink) Old 12-15-2015, 01:14 AM
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I wouldn't do it, but I'm not much of a risk taker. However, if you choose to take the risk then, like Immortal1 said, make sure you check the thickness of the glass.

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post #4 of 7 (permalink) Old 12-15-2015, 01:18 AM
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I wouldn't do it. I bought a 55 with a cracked center brace. filled it up and that thing bowed a good .5inch..... but if you do it, and it works, please post because I want to do the same thing.

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post #5 of 7 (permalink) Old 12-15-2015, 01:19 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Immortal1 View Post
I would strongly suspect removing the rim would not be an issue. I have a 40g breeder sitting in the garage - there is no center brace like my 75g has. The center brace is in place to keep the top of the longest panel from bowing excessively when filled with water. Don't remember the exact web site, but, if you search for DIY aquarium there are several sites that are basically construction calculators. You put in the size of the various panels (i.e. 36" x 17" x 1/4" and the calculator will tell you how much the glass will bow. There is also a X% safety factor built into the calculations. Figure out how thick the 40g breeder glass is and see how it fits into the calculation. My guess would be you will be fine.
I appreciate it, if need be I'll build a frame out of stainless steel, can be made super thin and just cover the edge of glass and go down about half an inch, would be much stronger than the plastic anyway. I suspect the same thing though I've seen others remove rims from 75s just never seen updates of long term success.

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post #6 of 7 (permalink) Old 12-15-2015, 01:40 PM
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Another option for those wishing to go rimless would be to construct a Euro Brace out of acrylic and silicone it in place.
Google images of Euro Brace to see what I mean.

Bump:
From CanReefAquatics,May 2006

I remember doing this for someone else once, it's for a 7 foot tank but the results would be the same for a 9 foot. It should give you an idea anyway.

So a quick note, all these plots show displacement. The main purpose of the bracing is to minimize deflection to not only stop the glass from breaking but minimize distortion. So obviously the lower the max displacement the better the brace.

Tank with no bracing for reference:

Max Displacement = 2.2mm

Tank with single large center brace and small euro bracing (standard design)

Max Displacement = 0.26mm

Tank with Euro Style Bracing (4")

Max Displacement = 0.36mm

Tank with Euro Style Bracing and two smaller center braces (4")

Max Displacement = 0.26mm

It's clear that the large center brace works effectively and that's why it's common practice for large standard tanks like the 230. A 4" euro brace works well but not quite as good, adding two additional center braces matches the large center brace and gives you better access and better opportunity for lighting. A larger Euro brace (5") will also likely match the large center brace but in the end the exact style and layout of your bracing will depend on your tank size, lighting and access requirements.

All in all you can't really say one is stronger than the other, both designs have the potential of being equally strong it just depends on the size. Also for a longer tank the results would be similar since you would use thicker glass.

HTH
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post #7 of 7 (permalink) Old 12-15-2015, 10:12 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Immortal1 View Post
Another option for those wishing to go rimless would be to construct a Euro Brace out of acrylic and silicone it in place.
Google images of Euro Brace to see what I mean.

Bump:
From CanReefAquatics,May 2006

I remember doing this for someone else once, it's for a 7 foot tank but the results would be the same for a 9 foot. It should give you an idea anyway.

So a quick note, all these plots show displacement. The main purpose of the bracing is to minimize deflection to not only stop the glass from breaking but minimize distortion. So obviously the lower the max displacement the better the brace.

Tank with no bracing for reference:

Max Displacement = 2.2mm

Tank with single large center brace and small euro bracing (standard design)

Max Displacement = 0.26mm

Tank with Euro Style Bracing (4")

Max Displacement = 0.36mm

Tank with Euro Style Bracing and two smaller center braces (4")

Max Displacement = 0.26mm

It's clear that the large center brace works effectively and that's why it's common practice for large standard tanks like the 230. A 4" euro brace works well but not quite as good, adding two additional center braces matches the large center brace and gives you better access and better opportunity for lighting. A larger Euro brace (5") will also likely match the large center brace but in the end the exact style and layout of your bracing will depend on your tank size, lighting and access requirements.

All in all you can't really say one is stronger than the other, both designs have the potential of being equally strong it just depends on the size. Also for a longer tank the results would be similar since you would use thicker glass.

HTH
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The only problem really with the euro brace is the fact I need more clearance over the tanks edge, not less. So of this were for cosmetic reasons I'd without doubt euro brace, but with glass instead of acrylic, much cheaper and easier to work with.

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