Sump return line for internal water movement - The Planted Tank Forum
 
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post #1 of 5 (permalink) Old 12-07-2015, 02:54 PM Thread Starter
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Sump return line for internal water movement

Hi folks,

I'm in the midst of setting up a sump on my new 90, and I had a quick question about my return line.

Most of what I've read about sumps seems to pertain more to saltwater setups, and they seem to frown upon trying to use the return water line for internal tank agitation or to create water movement.

I'd really like to avoid having any pumps or powerheads in the main tank however, since my otos have an incredible ability to find new and creative ways of trapping or maiming themselves and there will be 50+ in the tank.

As such, I'd really like to create a vertical spraybar like this one in the main tank off my return line. That way I can disperse the flow vertically in the water column, and direct some of the flow against the glass to encourage the farlowellas to lay their eggs in the main viewing area (I'm told they find the highest flow areas, and they do seem to hang out there in my 20 quite a bit).



Can anybody see a reason not to do this? All the holes would provide an effective siphon break too, which I like. The return line would then be a simple up and over loop with a trio of 90 degree bends, then down again into the spray bar.

I'm using a Mag7 pump if it matters. Really should have bought the 9.5 instead, but I was under the impression the tank was a 75 at the time.

Thanks!

Tank photos:


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post #2 of 5 (permalink) Old 12-07-2015, 03:16 PM
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I agree that most of the info online for sumps is saltwater related. I found the same thing when setting up my first sump for a 20 Long. I did the opposite and made a spray bar across the back of the tank near the surface. I think what you are proposing makes sense and should work but I think you will find that getting the right flow will take some tinkering with the hole sizes, etc... Do your best to make sure you dont have any dead spots. Also ensure one of the holes of your spray bar is very close to the surface in order to break the return siphon in the case of a power outage. Make sure to test a loss of power and see how much siphons back to your sump and that your sump can hold the extra water. What are your plans for the sump as far as chambers, biofilter material, etc...? Best of luck, it sounds like you are on your way to a great tank!
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post #3 of 5 (permalink) Old 12-07-2015, 06:04 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks! The other option I was considering was a spray bar across the front of the tank, pointing downward. That would create a bit of a loop down, through the volume, and back up to the weir. A little less intuitive than flow along the length of the tank, but might be a little less prone to dead spots. I'm not actually a big fan of the vals laid over at weird angles, and that would also solve that issue (sort of talking myself into that option it seems).

Nothing fancy planned for the sump, basically a variation on what's in the 20's right now. Easy to clean mechanical filtration, bio material, heater and return pump:





Bio material in the end compartment.

May use a little pump to agitate the surface of the sump to increase oxygenation, but not sure yet.

I'd like to be able to drip some source water into the sump as a continuous water change arrangement, but I'm
still working out whether it'd be worth the trouble. I'd like to be able to get to where the water changes are a little bit every day or few days as opposed to a big production once a week. I'm used to managing 20's so this is a big step, and since I'm using RO even more so.
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post #4 of 5 (permalink) Old 12-17-2015, 12:08 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AdamTill View Post
Thanks! The other option I was considering was a spray bar across the front of the tank, pointing downward. That would create a bit of a loop down, through the volume, and back up to the weir. A little less intuitive than flow along the length of the tank, but might be a little less prone to dead spots. I'm not actually a big fan of the vals laid over at weird angles, and that would also solve that issue (sort of talking myself into that option it seems).

Nothing fancy planned for the sump, basically a variation on what's in the 20's right now. Easy to clean mechanical filtration, bio material, heater and return pump:





Bio material in the end compartment.

May use a little pump to agitate the surface of the sump to increase oxygenation, but not sure yet.

I'd like to be able to drip some source water into the sump as a continuous water change arrangement, but I'm
still working out whether it'd be worth the trouble. I'd like to be able to get to where the water changes are a little bit every day or few days as opposed to a big production once a week. I'm used to managing 20's so this is a big step, and since I'm using RO even more so.
I rarely changed the water in my heavy stocked 75g planted sa cichlid tank. I'm a firm believe in only changing water when the tank needs it, or if I'm breeding certain species I'll change with cold r/o. But if you're set on changing water weekly you can use a very low gpd r/o system and lower it even more with a valve and basically use a drip system many people use this in a larger tank or breeding tanks, which it's amazing for. Do a Google search for drip water change.

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post #5 of 5 (permalink) Old 12-17-2015, 02:55 AM Thread Starter
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Yep, that's the plan. I can't easily gravity drain, so I'll have to use a pumped line to drain, but that's the general idea.
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