Cerges vs Griggs Reactor - The Planted Tank Forum
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post #1 of 14 (permalink) Old 12-01-2015, 11:32 PM Thread Starter
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Cerges vs Griggs Reactor

Cost aside, what is he advantage/disadvantage of one over the other ?

I will be feeding them from a SunSun 302 canister filter ( Two AC110 do my mechanical filteration on a 75G )( Purigen, Phosguard and Carbon in the 302 ).

For lighting I just ordered a Finnex 24/7. Working with someone on here for a regulator or may go the ebay route.
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post #2 of 14 (permalink) Old 12-04-2015, 09:04 PM
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Looks like it's kind of late for a reply but lacking any other response, I will throw out some thoughts from my view. I should say upfront that I've not used the Cerge's style so can only look at it and add some theory. I used the Grigg's style as he drew it up and have been very satisfied so never changed when I added more tanks and reactors. When I find something that works really well I resist the urge to "improve" it. I find that is a way to totally mess up the design.

For judging the two, I go back to what I want and that gets down to cost, how well does it work and what potential downsides can I see. Then I like to have options if I want to use the design for other size tanks or situations.

Cost-- I'm a DIY guy and always have PVC and glue handy. That makes a Grigg's a natural for me but if I started from scratch, I can buy 18" of pipe, fittings and glue for about the same as a house filter costs. I don't bother with the purple primer when using new pipe and fittings that are not oxidized or dirty.
How does it work-- Both seem to satisfy most users.
Potential downsides-- Both seem to have a few users who have trouble. One big concern is the way they can both cut flow going through the filter. The Grigg's can be made better on this by NOT using any 90 degree bends in the waterflow. A large sweeping curve in the tubing and going straight into the reactor seems to be solution for this as well as using large enough fittings to avoid cutting flow. Not sure how this works out with the Cerge's style as the water has to flow in and then up and out. I do use a 90 at the bottom so that it can set on the floor and avoid strapping it to the stand. I do like to adjust the pipe size and length to fit what I feel is better for different size tanks. Eighteen inches of 1 1/2" PVC works well for 125 gallon but I use smaller for 55. I just want it plenty large but not use a crazy amount of space.
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post #3 of 14 (permalink) Old 12-04-2015, 10:33 PM
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I've used both, it really doesn't matter which one you use. If you go with Grigg's design don't put any bio balls or media in it, it's not required. Both designs can end up with a CO2 bubble in them by mid/end of day. There are many causes for this, but that is CO2 that is not going into your tank during the day. It will eventually be absorbed when the CO2 turns off for the night. The only reason that I mention this is that both designs can be improved by recycling this gas bubble into a venturi or needle wheel powerhead. There are lots of posts on this forum and the web on how to do this. I feel this modification is easier to do on a Grigg style reactor, but have done it on both.
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post #4 of 14 (permalink) Old 12-05-2015, 03:49 PM
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I've only used the Grigg's. I have some issues with bubbles/noise, but I think mine is too small. I like the idea of the Cerges for the clear housing. I think I could get flow/dissolution at a closer to optimum level if I could see what was going on inside.

Quote:
I will be feeding them from a SunSun 302 canister filter ( Two AC110 do my mechanical filteration on a 75G )( Purigen, Phosguard and Carbon in the 302 ).
Most planted tanks are set up without carbon.
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post #5 of 14 (permalink) Old 12-05-2015, 03:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kubla View Post
Most planted tanks are set up without carbon.
Or phosphate remover. Stick with the purigen and add mech or bio filtration to the other two baskets.
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post #6 of 14 (permalink) Old 12-05-2015, 09:26 PM Thread Starter
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Only reason I am running phosguard was to help get diatoms under control. Those are gone now, so I won't be replenshing that. I didn't really see any advantage for carbon and it seems counter productive once I start dosing fertilizers and such.

Cost isn't a big issue since I already have the housing from my previous RO unit. That being said, I went ahead and picked up the plumbing for the Griggs but you guys just though a wrench in to my plan. While at Home Depot, all they had was 90 5/8" x 3/4" fittings. I have a total of 4 of them. Going to try my local hardware store and Lowes to see if I can find the proper fittings.
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post #7 of 14 (permalink) Old 12-05-2015, 09:36 PM
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Yeah, one of the reasons no Grigg reactor is quite identical to the next is that we make do with whatever fittings we can find. I ended up ordering 5/8" plastic barbs from Grainger. I think.
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post #8 of 14 (permalink) Old 12-05-2015, 09:47 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kevmo911 View Post
Yeah, one of the reasons no Grigg reactor is quite identical to the next is that we make do with whatever fittings we can find. I ended up ordering 5/8" plastic barbs from Grainger. I think.
Oops....meant so say I was doing Cerges....grrr..... anyway, I think can reduce down to 2 elbows if I can't find straight ones.
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post #9 of 14 (permalink) Old 12-06-2015, 02:27 AM
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Different places and stocking will vary but I find some of the really handy parts in the irrigation section so it can help to look over both sections, regular PVC and irrigation. Then there is also some help in the clear plastic fittings and they are often in a different section. For the tubing size I use there is an irrigation fitting which comes in blackwith a screwdown compression fitting which makes me feel safer with tubing.

And it should be noted that I do TRY to stay away from 90's but do still use them. I'm willing to trade some loss of flow for the convenience of letting it stand up better. I did several and was okay with the loss of flow between this and straight fittings. Flow is one of those things that have to be seen at times before I decide if it is too low or good enough. Much of the decision is based on what you need and what you started with on the filter you use. Ten guppies in a 20 gallon may make you want less flow if you are using a big filter. No real firm answer for what is enough and what is killing it too much.

Last edited by PlantedRich; 04-03-2018 at 09:03 PM.
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post #10 of 14 (permalink) Old 12-07-2015, 01:57 AM
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Cerges or Grigg - the only design change is that in a Cerges the water is evacuated from the bottom upwards through a pipe with outlet at the top while in a Grigg the water evacuates at the bottom itself. So essentially a Grigg type with a pipe-thick rod at at the co-center of the outer casing would do what a Cerges type is doing. Can't find any difference of action except that the decrease in the volume because of the presence of a pipe in the center of the Cerges type is made up by the overall volume of the outer container.

If you have a choice, you have a problem, till you elect your choice. No choice, no problem, only consequences, learn to live with them.
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post #11 of 14 (permalink) Old 12-09-2015, 02:50 AM
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I'm in the same boat. I'm leaning towards making a Rex Grigg reactor with the clear pvc. Is there any difference with noise output? I don't see why there would be.
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post #12 of 14 (permalink) Old 12-09-2015, 08:42 PM Thread Starter
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Versus the single pipe in the center, is there any reason I can't use the container on the right and put either bioballs or a piece of foam in it ? I have this left over from my reef system and figurest I might as well put it to use. I can always go and pick up a 1" piece of pvc if that is better

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post #13 of 14 (permalink) Old 12-09-2015, 11:51 PM Thread Starter
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Went digging through the scrap pile and found some 1" pvc and decided to make it full length and drill holes in the bottom.

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post #14 of 14 (permalink) Old 12-10-2015, 01:32 AM
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Here's what I ended up doing with an inline heater attached.

https://www.plantedtank.net/forums/20...ml#post8638353


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