Cerges Reactor + In-Line Diffuser? - The Planted Tank Forum
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post #1 of 35 (permalink) Old 09-26-2015, 01:58 AM Thread Starter
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Lightbulb Cerges Reactor + In-Line Diffuser?

I have been doing some research into these reactors and I notice everyone uses a T before the reactor to feed CO2 into the water line at a very low pressure with nothing to diffuse it at all just straight into the line. Why aren't people using in-line diffusers to pre-diffuse the CO2 before the reactor??


I realize this type of glass diffuser requires high pressure to work because the stone is fine, but what about this plastic style is the stone any coarser?





Even a low pressure air stone meant for an oxygen pump inside the T must be better than nothing right?? I am limited on space under my tank and so I will not be able to use a house water filter canister, I need to build something narrower and smaller so some sort of pre-diffusion should really help with a small reactor size, after all I am only using a tiny SUNSUN HW-603B canister filter with a 15 gallon tank.
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post #2 of 35 (permalink) Old 09-26-2015, 01:34 PM
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Cerges Reactor + In-Line Diffuser?

It would be better to break up the bubbles for faster diffusion but it's not needed for a cerges or Rex. The gases are smashed & diffused inside these chambers. These inlines are for canister filters usually. For a HOB, you'll need to break up the bubbles for diffusion.


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Last edited by mistergreen; 09-26-2015 at 01:51 PM. Reason: +
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post #3 of 35 (permalink) Old 09-26-2015, 04:09 PM
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Its not needed because these reactors already achieve full dissolution


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post #4 of 35 (permalink) Old 09-26-2015, 04:19 PM
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It might help for very large tanks with high flow and a ton of co2 being injected but in general it's not needed. Certainly wouldn't hurt though.
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post #5 of 35 (permalink) Old 09-26-2015, 04:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Teebo View Post
I do not miss this thing at all! Cerges Reactor does work as well as they say. After using this inline and a few others, once I switched to Cerges I had to turn down my co2 so I would also say its not needed at all.


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post #6 of 35 (permalink) Old 09-26-2015, 09:45 PM Thread Starter
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I do not use HOB's in the tanks I am referring to using this reactor on, if I understand correctly the bubbles float to the top of the reactor and smash against the top because they can not escape with it capped off so I can see how it may not be necessary now.

I went to the hardware store and I want the size of the under sink canister but they do not use 3/4" piping, I need a very narrow canister to fit.
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post #7 of 35 (permalink) Old 09-26-2015, 11:09 PM
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I thought about it, but I couldn't find one that fit my hose.

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post #8 of 35 (permalink) Old 09-26-2015, 11:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nilocg View Post
It might help for very large tanks with high flow and a ton of co2 being injected but in general it's not needed. Certainly wouldn't hurt though.
From my experience, you are correct. If I run greater than 10 bps with my current flow rate from the canister filter, I can generate a bubble in the top of the reactor (i.e., not enough flow to pound the cO2 into submission). If the reactor has larger water flow passages and the cO2 was pre-diffused, then you could likely run 1 reactor on a 180 gallon tank. The video below is about 5-7 bps. As you can see, none of the bubbles make it down to the bottom and up the draw tube.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LunleNWDeIo


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post #9 of 35 (permalink) Old 09-27-2015, 04:10 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Patriot View Post
I thought about it, but I couldn't find one that fit my hose.
Finally I found one! This may be the only option out there and its only $17 on eBay right now with free shipping! "Hydronix HF2" it is only 2.5" wide (standard 10" tall) and uses 1/2" NPT which for me is perfect my canister uses 1/2" line



I notice everyone puts a foot of pipe between the T and the reactor...is this necessary? Would be much cleaner if I could just thread the T to the reactor inlet
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post #10 of 35 (permalink) Old 09-28-2015, 02:55 PM
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Cerges Reactor + In-Line Diffuser?

Some people, myself included, just drill a hole in the top of the housing and pull the co2 tubing through. Just make the hole a little smaller than the tubing and clean out the burrs and there shouldn't be any leaks.

Also btw, you'll still need an adaptor to connect tubing to the 1/2" female NPT. Your hardware store should have adapters that can connect pretty much any size tubing to any size NPT...all for a buck or two. Not saying this isn't the right filter housing for you, but if there was another one you liked better but it has larger NPT threads, that shouldn't pose any problem for you.

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post #11 of 35 (permalink) Old 09-29-2015, 03:41 AM Thread Starter
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So in theory it does just collect under that cap and mash there does not matter how it gets there because chances are bubbles join each other once inside under the cap anyway?

Yea I realize NPT sizes can be changed but my point is there is no 2.5" wide filter canister that has 1/2" plumbing its all smaller than that or to get 1/2" or larger the canister has to be wider than 2.5" (I am restricted on canister width) I will T it in directly to the inlet instead of drilling a hole in the cap thank you for your input!
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post #12 of 35 (permalink) Old 09-29-2015, 03:57 AM
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thanks for the lead of the filter. good price.

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post #13 of 35 (permalink) Old 10-07-2015, 04:37 AM Thread Starter
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My canister arrived, it is great quality, nice and thin how I needed it. Here it is next to my tiny SUNSUN HW-603B now I need to take a trip to the hardware store for threaded barbs and a T

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post #14 of 35 (permalink) Old 10-07-2015, 08:50 PM
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Diffuser bubbles blow into the tank easier than big bubbles. People have put diffusers on before the reactor and get bubbles in the tank! Diffusers also need maintenance, the cerges reactor doesn't, why make work when you don't have to?


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post #15 of 35 (permalink) Old 10-11-2015, 01:39 AM Thread Starter
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Yeah I guess I see your point with maintenance, I don't see how being smaller would make the bubbles end up in your tank though.

I could not find all the parts I need to T in at the hardware store the way most people do it, so this is what I ended up with, I am not sure how much the 90D elbows will slow down flow but I am restricted on space:



Then I was toying around in my spare aquarium parts bin, and I found this, it came with my Ecoplus 396 Submersible Water Pump the threads are correct but a bit loose. Tight with an O-ring and plumbing tape I should be fine, and it saves me a lot of space!



I now need to add a UV unit to my line, so this is where I left off so far; I want to thread it directly onto the output of the reactor but it will take some tricky piecing to make it work but I am going to try:
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