2x6s cut to level tank, attach or not attach? - The Planted Tank Forum
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post #1 of 33 (permalink) Old 09-18-2015, 12:29 PM Thread Starter
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2x6s cut to level tank, attach or not attach?

So I cut 2x6s using a compass and jigsaw to level my tank on my brutally uneven concrete floor (its safe, it was built uneven to slope towards a drain in the center of the room, its an old firehouse garage) and I put them on the ground in a rectangle with the longer side standing up. Then there are 3 2x8s placed across the top long side down. I put the tank and stand on and made sure it was level. My question is should I attach the pieces to eachother or just let them stand as is, there is a decent amount of shimming involved so I worry that if I attach them they won't sit properly and will be uneven again.

Will the weight of the tank be sufficient enough to hold them in place or do I need to worry about things shifting out of position and collapsing.

Thoughts on this?

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post #2 of 33 (permalink) Old 09-18-2015, 12:35 PM
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Maybe just add a screw here and there just to be safe. if your worrying a little now. you will more once its all set up

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post #3 of 33 (permalink) Old 09-18-2015, 12:50 PM Thread Starter
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Should I be worried though, I filled it half way and then drained it back to 1/4 and those 2x6s wont budge at all, also would it be safe to drill while its a 1/4 full, I dont see why it wouldn't be and the weight will hold it in place for me, and then I wont have to re shim it.
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post #4 of 33 (permalink) Old 09-18-2015, 01:00 PM
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I'd have no problem not attaching it. All your forces are downward save the occasional bump into it. And I really doubt you'd be able to move that with the occasional bump. More like needing to hit it with a Mack truck.

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post #5 of 33 (permalink) Old 09-18-2015, 01:02 PM
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If all of the unpainted wood is one peice and the tank stand is just sitting on top, i would not worry too much i would maybe angle one or two skrews from the new peice up into the stand just to prevent the unlikely shifting.

if the unpainted wood under the stand is just placed together and held together by the weight of the tank, I would worry

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post #6 of 33 (permalink) Old 09-18-2015, 01:03 PM
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I would definitely attach the 2x6s to each other
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post #7 of 33 (permalink) Old 09-18-2015, 01:26 PM Thread Starter
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Its 4 pieces, 2 4ft and 2 1.5ft roughly, and they are simply placed, theyre all 2x6 so theyre sitting on about 1.5 inches of surface. I just realized because of its positioning I would have to take it apart to drill it together, there is no room to fit a drill in the overlapping areas because of the wall. I supposed it I were to set it upside down on a level surface and drill it that way it should work, any unevenness would be on the bottom and I could shim it until its level again.
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post #8 of 33 (permalink) Old 09-18-2015, 01:48 PM Thread Starter
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Also its an 80 gallon tank
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post #9 of 33 (permalink) Old 09-18-2015, 02:55 PM
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Screw the wood together. Just make sure the top surfaces are flush and secure the boards together then re-shim to level if you have to and use pilot holes especially if your tank is already on the boards. You would screw any other stand together so why not this one? It just seems like a lot of factors playing against you and if it were me I'd secure it the best I could.
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post #10 of 33 (permalink) Old 09-18-2015, 05:25 PM
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80 gallons of water is roughly 670 lbs. , add in the weight of your tank and stand , you're looking at over 800 , not counting landscaping . It ain't goin' nowhere . Having said that ... if it was me , I'd put in some screws to join the 1 1/2 pieces to the 4 's .Just to make the base rectangle one piece . Wouldn't worry about the flat pieces the stand is bearing down on . Might want to see about some trim to hide the whole thing .
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post #11 of 33 (permalink) Old 09-19-2015, 12:48 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gloogloos View Post
Its 4 pieces, 2 4ft and 2 1.5ft roughly, and they are simply placed, theyre all 2x6 so theyre sitting on about 1.5 inches of surface. I just realized because of its positioning I would have to take it apart to drill it together, there is no room to fit a drill in the overlapping areas because of the wall. I supposed it I were to set it upside down on a level surface and drill it that way it should work, any unevenness would be on the bottom and I could shim it until its level again.
Hold the phone!
You don't have the 2x6 shimmed frame screwed together? That's simply nutzo. You don't need to screw the actual black stand to the 2x6 frame but you must, I repeat must, screw the ends to each face. Then I'd screw those 2x you have flat to the frame also.

Drain the tank, take it off, take the stand off the frame and screw the damn thing together.

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post #12 of 33 (permalink) Old 09-19-2015, 01:13 AM
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Ditto:
Properly attach the 2 x 6s to each other. Make this part plumb, level and square.

I do not understand why you add the 2 x 8 pieces. I would not use them. If you want cross pieces use more 2 x 6s vertically in between the long 2 x 6s, in the same plane.

The little shims under the 2 x 6s do not matter- no need to attach.
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post #13 of 33 (permalink) Old 09-19-2015, 01:32 AM
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Diane, I don't see anything wrong with the 2x8 laid flat. Better surface area for the real stand to sit on and if it's off a bit it's not critical. The added benefit to them is screwed into the face and end pieces it helps square it up. Plus they're already cut so what the heck.

After he has it glued and screwed he can add a piece of nice1x6 as a trim and build up a nice frame with store bought molding if there is no router available.

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Quote me as saying I was misquoted.
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post #14 of 33 (permalink) Old 09-19-2015, 02:43 AM
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I haven't read the whole thread. But think of your unpainted frame as a wooden pallet. All components must be fastened together. But the "pallet" doesn't have to be fasten to the cabinet.

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post #15 of 33 (permalink) Old 09-19-2015, 02:45 AM
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Nothing wrong with the 2X8s layed flat as long as they have good contact with the cabinet.

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