TC420 Time - compatablity with Meanwell and other drivers? - The Planted Tank Forum
 
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post #1 of 10 (permalink) Old 09-08-2015, 01:44 AM Thread Starter
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TC420 Time - compatablity with Meanwell and other drivers?

I purchased this programmable driver to do a bunch of strip lights for a planted tank. After attaching 2K+ LEDs from strip lights to the fixture, it is still not bright enough, so I will be adding some high power LED's. What I want to know is what kind of LED drivers are compatible with this controller. The details on it are very limited. I would like to use a meanwell LDD driver, but I get the feeling that it will not work (i.e. the controller put out 12V [pwm?] and the meanwell wants either a 10V or 5V diming signal.

You can look up the controller from amazon or ebay:
Time controller led strip led module 12V 24V DC 20A 5 channel PC program TC420 http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?url=search-alias%3Dmi&field-keywords=5+Channel+programmable+LED+Time+Controller

Would there be other drivers that I should look at?
My Power supply is 12V, so if I could get a boost Constant current LED driver that would make getting enough Lumens easier.
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post #2 of 10 (permalink) Old 09-08-2015, 03:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shanefe View Post
What I want to know is what kind of LED drivers are compatible with this controlle
none.. They use constant voltage so you would have to set up a series/parallel array w/ resistors..


as a "work around" to your strips, you can get a variable voltage PS and increase the voltage to the strips (Don't exceed about 14V)
This will usually shorten the lifespan due to heating..

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Last edited by jeffkrol; 09-08-2015 at 04:26 PM. Reason: edit
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post #3 of 10 (permalink) Old 09-08-2015, 10:00 PM
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[QUOTE=Shanefe;8294881 After attaching 2K+ LEDs from strip lights to the fixture, it is still not bright enough[/QUOTE]


After reading that and scratiching my head I have to wonder what you meant by this..

Also a few things
1)Switching to 5630 .5w LED's would make a big difference
2)back feeding voltage to the end (or even to the middle) of the strips so that both sides have the DC feed helps overcome resistance losses to long strips.
3) What size tank are you lighting? The smaller 120 degree native LED's do have a large falloff for deeper tanks..

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post #4 of 10 (permalink) Old 09-09-2015, 01:41 AM Thread Starter
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I am converting a 48” 220 W Power Compact Florescent light to LEDs.

I got a string of each of these lights from Amazon:
1. Double Density, Double Row 3528 (1200 per 5M reel)
2. Double Density 3528 (600 per 5M reel) Water Proof
3. Double Density 2835 (300 per 5M reel) WP
4. Normal Density 5630 (300/5M) WP
Note, I do not like the waterproofing!

After visually (no PAR Meter) testing them the Double Row 3528 seemed to be the brightest. I put 3 rows of the #1 on the light fixture and one each of the others. I then plugged it – it worked!

I held it next to my 48” Planted + 24/7 and the Finnex is much Brighter (Again no PAR Meter). The Finnex is also more efficient at 43W (from wall) vs the ~60W for my homemade light. Unless you get lucky or are paying $150+/reel, it seem hard to get super bright strip lights.

Picture of the light below.

Next I will attach [8] cheap 10W LED’s from ebay with a 1 Ohm resistors 2Watt, making 2 sets of 4 LEDs in series which looks like it it about all the LED controller can handle per channel (4A).

My goal was to have an efficient light at was aprx the PAR output of the 220W Power Compact.
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post #5 of 10 (permalink) Old 09-09-2015, 01:52 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Also a few things
1)Switching to 5630 .5w LED's would make a big difference
2)back feeding voltage to the end (or even to the middle) of the strips so that both sides have the DC feed helps overcome resistance losses to long strips.
3) What size tank are you lighting? The smaller 120 degree native LED's do have a large falloff for deeper tanks..
1) the 5630 did not see brighter than the others. In fact they seemed a little dimmer. From the spec = 9.5W/m Divide by 60 LED/m = 0.15W Must have gotten the wrong ones.

2) I can try add voltage at the other end, but 44" does not seem like 'long run'

3) 72G Bowfront 48L x 13-18"W x ~20" or so.
If the 10W work and still don't reach the bottom well, I will add lens to them.

I will keep the LED Strips as a channel on the TC420 and add a Blue channel for a moon light effect, then use 2 channels for the 10 W lights.
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post #6 of 10 (permalink) Old 09-09-2015, 01:06 PM
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As a "rule of thumb" you will need 1/2W of the PC to approx. the pc output.

The "problem" w/ the series strips is the terminating resistor on every 3 in series wastes power. Also, depending on the design, it will be at a lower output than you would get w/ a constant current array.
One in order to assure no overheating and 2)to make up for power fluctuations

When a fixture is designed on a solid al heatsink, and lower density, they can tweak the resistor to allow full utilization of the diodes potential (in the case of say a .5W LED the LED "useage" can approach .5w. with "strips" you may only have .2-.3W effective)

As you probably know, the 10W "chips" are just a 3x3 array of 1w diodes.
There are other types though
Just an example of the 3x3 kind.

Quote:
Color: Warm white
Forward Voltage (VF): DC9-12V
Forward current (IF): 1050MA
Out put Lumens: 800-900LM
Color Temperature: Warm white(2800K-3200K)
Beam Angel: 140 degrees
The 1 Ohm 2W resistor per chip seems pretty accurate.
Though as a precaution I'd consider 5W resistors..Still in the 1-1.5Ohm range.
That is just me personally though.
If you err on the high side on the resistance you can still get a "tweak-able" power supply and increase the output voltage to over 12V..
You didn't state your ps specifics BTW.
It needs more than 240W capability to utilize all 5 channels effectively

You can do a rough calculation of power output of the LED's on the strips by getting the number off the smd resistor and seeing its ohm rating..

Quote:
the 5630 did not see brighter than the others. In fact they seemed a little dimmer.
Yea a lot depends on diode quality, terminating resistor, and internal wiring resistance and losses.. which is why a double tap is worth considering.

As you are well aware visual look isn't very accurate..

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Last edited by jeffkrol; 09-09-2015 at 01:13 PM. Reason: edit
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post #7 of 10 (permalink) Old 10-16-2015, 06:51 AM
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As per my experience with these things i think that no driver will be compatible with the driver. They use constant voltage so you would have to set up a series/parallel array of resistors.
Also Switching to 5630 .5w LED's would make a big difference and back feeding voltage to the end of the strips so that both sides have the DC feed helps overcome resistance losses to long strips.


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post #8 of 10 (permalink) Old 10-21-2015, 02:23 AM Thread Starter
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OK I got some numbers with the GSAS PAR meter.

72 Gal Bow Front - 19" Depth
With 7 strip of LEDs 44" long - PAR is 25 under the light, at the front of the tank 10 PAR - 79 Watts
With (8) 10W LED's 45-50 PAR under - F. Edge is 40 PAR - 104 Watts
Both 60-65 PAR under the light, 50 PAR Front edge - 146 watts

72 Gal with Finnex 24x7 48"
PAR 30-40 at 19" Depth.

20 Gal Tall - 19" Depth
(3) 10 W LED in Florescent hood retro fit.
PAR 60-70 Front to under light

Last edited by Shanefe; 10-21-2015 at 03:09 AM. Reason: Have Watts
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post #9 of 10 (permalink) Old 10-27-2015, 02:37 AM Thread Starter
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Adding Lens... Bust

I picked up some glass lens and holders made for 10W LEDs. Man do they make a difference. From 60-65 PAR to 120+ PAR ... (in one tiny spot). I had to pull them all off again. They seem to be Spot lens the way they attach. Oh well.
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post #10 of 10 (permalink) Old 01-02-2017, 07:40 PM
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you can use the gate pin of each channels mosfet to control mean well LDD drivers
need to be able to solder a wire to the gate pin, good soldering iron and a steady hand required
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