(Another) DIY idea for lighting 40B advice from LED gurus humbly sought - The Planted Tank Forum
 
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post #1 of 11 (permalink) Old 07-31-2015, 03:13 PM Thread Starter
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(Another) DIY idea for lighting 40B advice from LED gurus humbly sought

I'm setting up a 40B in my newly alloted "fish room" in my basement. (Thank you wifey ) I have a great deal of flexibility in this area, and it is my play area, so aesthetics aren't critical, meaning I have complete autonomy as to hanging something from the exposed joists above me. Obviously I don't want to build something that will look like crap.


I'm thinking of using a set of 2 clusters. The clusters would be centered approximately 9" from the centerline of the aquarium, splitting the distance from center to each end. It would seem the overlap from each cluster should provide more than enough coverage in the center and to each end. Each cluster would contain the following:

1x Philips Luxeon M 4000K 12W @ 700ma
1x Phillips Lexon M 6500K 12W @ 700ma
3x Luxeon ES Tristar separate wiring (Royal Blue, Cyan-Turquoise, Deep Red)

I'm thinking I'll need a 36v power supply as the Vf on the Luxeons at 700mA is 11, so 11x2=22v plus 3V for the LDD =25V. Is my understanding of this correct?

I plan to run the 4000K and the 6500K's each on their own LDD-700H, and the Royal Blues and Cyan-Turquoise each on their own LDD-700H as well. My question is regarding the Deep Red (660nm) It seems most places recommend running these at 350ma. Does running them on a LDD-350H sound feasible, Is three of these per cluster enough red or it is overkill?

Also, I see most people are including violet in their full spectrum builds, is this a recommended approach, and should they be on their own channel or is it ok to pair them with something else? Finally, will these clusters provide sufficient PAR and provide sufficient coverage if suspended approximatly 12" above the top of the tank? So approximately 28" above the substrate? Or do I need to consider adding additional LEDs or Optics? I'm looking for High-Medium or Low-High Light levels. This will be a "high tech" build, with pressurized CO2, and EI dosing of fertilizers.

I'm thinking of using the Coralux 5up LDD board. I've got a few arduino units coming in later this week, and would like to know if the 5V PWM dimming on the arduino is compatible with the PWM input on the corlaux board. From what I'm reading it looks like it can support that. Just would like clarification on that.

This will be my first full spectrum build, I'm not a total noob to LED and DIY builds in general, but I am more than open to receiving criticism and suggestion. I'd like to only do this once, so please offer anything you're thinking, thanks in advance!

-Brian


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post #2 of 11 (permalink) Old 07-31-2015, 10:04 PM
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Originally Posted by bprinehart View Post
I'm setting up a 40B in my newly alloted "fish room" in my basement. (Thank you wifey ) I have a great deal of flexibility in this area, and it is my play area, so aesthetics aren't critical, meaning I have complete autonomy as to hanging something from the exposed joists above me. Obviously I don't want to build something that will look like crap.


I'm thinking of using a set of 2 clusters. The clusters would be centered approximately 9" from the centerline of the aquarium, splitting the distance from center to each end. It would seem the overlap from each cluster should provide more than enough coverage in the center and to each end. Each cluster would contain the following:

1x Philips Luxeon M 4000K 12W @ 700ma
1x Phillips Lexon M 6500K 12W @ 700ma
3x Luxeon ES Tristar separate wiring (Royal Blue, Cyan-Turquoise, Deep Red)

I'm thinking I'll need a 36v power supply as the Vf on the Luxeons at 700mA is 11, so 11x2=22v plus 3V for the LDD =25V. Is my understanding of this correct?

I plan to run the 4000K and the 6500K's each on their own LDD-700H, and the Royal Blues and Cyan-Turquoise each on their own LDD-700H as well. My question is regarding the Deep Red (660nm) It seems most places recommend running these at 350ma. Does running them on a LDD-350H sound feasible, Is three of these per cluster enough red or it is overkill?

Also, I see most people are including violet in their full spectrum builds, is this a recommended approach, and should they be on their own channel or is it ok to pair them with something else? Finally, will these clusters provide sufficient PAR and provide sufficient coverage if suspended approximatly 12" above the top of the tank? So approximately 28" above the substrate? Or do I need to consider adding additional LEDs or Optics? I'm looking for High-Medium or Low-High Light levels. This will be a "high tech" build, with pressurized CO2, and EI dosing of fertilizers.

I'm thinking of using the Coralux 5up LDD board. I've got a few arduino units coming in later this week, and would like to know if the 5V PWM dimming on the arduino is compatible with the PWM input on the corlaux board. From what I'm reading it looks like it can support that. Just would like clarification on that.

This will be my first full spectrum build, I'm not a total noob to LED and DIY builds in general, but I am more than open to receiving criticism and suggestion. I'd like to only do this once, so please offer anything you're thinking, thanks in advance!

-Brian
quick notes..
Coralux boards have pull down resistors so nothing will light till you attach the (yes compatible) PWM wire.
it is a safety feature in the event the Aduino fails. The lights won't go full on and stay on..

NEVER hot wire the LED's to the LDD's Always connect things b4 turning PS on.

V(f) of reds and it's current is dependent on LED. running on separate channels allows you to go to max current then dim so to speak..

voltages add in series but that will be total per channel..

Power Supply needs 3V headroom over max V(f) of highest V(f) string..LDD requirement.

Current adds in parallel IF you do any series/parallel strings..

Max is 700mA at 2.2V.. I'd do at least 500mA (pretty sure I'd personally go 700mA) and dim if necessary.
http://shop.stevesleds.com/Philips-L...8794102435.htm

Oh, after another quick look 24V probably a bit too small "unless" you get a Meanwell 24V w/ some Voltage adjustment..Most will squeeze out a volt or 2 ....22.8-26.4V
http://www.mouser.com/ds/2/260/meanw...150-740934.pdf

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Last edited by jeffkrol; 07-31-2015 at 10:17 PM. Reason: edit
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post #3 of 11 (permalink) Old 07-31-2015, 10:21 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks Jeff, i was hoping you'd chime in. This confirms what I was thinking. Since the V(f) of the Luxeons at 700ma is 11 the highest string would have a V(f) of 22, so with the 3V for the LDD I'd be at 25. Unless I end up putting 2 colors on the same channel which would still be over 24. So I'll definitely go with the 36v supply. I should be perfectly fine with everything else, not doing any parallel strings. I like the idea of being able to dial in every channel separate to get a spectrum I'm happy with.

Any thoughts on whether violet is a necessity and if these arrays should provide the desired light levels? I can't see how they wouldn't when most of the retrokits for this size tank recommend 20-22 3W LEDs and I'm effectively using 34 per cluster and can almost count on having to dim everything down to avoid an algae factory.

Thanks again!

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post #4 of 11 (permalink) Old 08-01-2015, 01:21 AM
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Thanks Jeff, i was hoping you'd chime in. This confirms what I was thinking. Since the V(f) of the Luxeons at 700ma is 11 the highest string would have a V(f) of 22, so with the 3V for the LDD I'd be at 25. Unless I end up putting 2 colors on the same channel which would still be over 24. So I'll definitely go with the 36v supply. I should be perfectly fine with everything else, not doing any parallel strings. I like the idea of being able to dial in every channel separate to get a spectrum I'm happy with.

Any thoughts on whether violet is a necessity and if these arrays should provide the desired light levels? I can't see how they wouldn't when most of the retrokits for this size tank recommend 20-22 3W LEDs and I'm effectively using 34 per cluster and can almost count on having to dim everything down to avoid an algae factory.

Thanks again!

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Yes you should have plenty of light.

As to "purple" well they are high PAR
, low lumen and good ones are a bit expensive and they are prone to failure.

As such, I don't really think they have any different impact than Royal blue.

As a "colorant". Personal choice.

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post #5 of 11 (permalink) Old 08-01-2015, 01:42 AM Thread Starter
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Excellent, thanks for your time and patience! Will post some progress pics as I put this together.


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post #6 of 11 (permalink) Old 08-13-2015, 01:39 AM Thread Starter
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post #7 of 11 (permalink) Old 08-13-2015, 02:06 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeffkrol View Post
As to "purple" well they are high PAR
, low lumen and good ones are a bit expensive and they are prone to failure.

As such, I don't really think they have any different impact than Royal blue.

As a "colorant". Personal choice.
Included in my first build were 6-385nm uvA in a 4' fixture.
3 watt always ran @ 700mA, did they make a difference, unknown really.
I cannot even tell they are on or not (they are on) but unsure of benefit.
Expensive US yes, from china not so much, need to check with a meter though.
Very prone to failure, any moisture and they will melt lens and short closed.
I don't even notice the color change if adjusting dimming.


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post #8 of 11 (permalink) Old 08-13-2015, 02:09 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the input! In the end I decided to leave the UV out and instead went with 4000K, 6500K RB, Cyan, and 660 Red, and additionally added Lime


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post #9 of 11 (permalink) Old 08-13-2015, 02:27 AM Thread Starter
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Hey guppy, if you don't mind, did you do your build in a cluster style or the traditional "grid" layout? I'm trying to decide the best way to lay these out so I get a good color mix, but the colors aren't overpowered by the whites. I'm thinking a ring of colors around the two daylight chips should give me the individual canons I'm looking for, and I should still be able to coax out the colors in the plants and fish with the others.


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post #10 of 11 (permalink) Old 08-13-2015, 02:31 AM
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I worked from a grid layout over the 4' span.


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post #11 of 11 (permalink) Old 08-13-2015, 02:34 AM Thread Starter
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Gotcha. I'm thinking I will be doing something like this or as mentioned earlier with the colored "halo"


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