LED help! - The Planted Tank Forum
 
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post #1 of 11 (permalink) Old 03-23-2015, 09:01 PM Thread Starter
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LED help!

I've been lurking for some time, but my current LED build has driven me crazy enough to join and post.

Simple set-up. Single Vero 18 COB that I'd like to dim. I didn't notice that the first LED driver I picked up didn't go high enough in it's voltage range to actually drive the array past initial firing.

I don't want to solder anything on a board, but wiring is fine.

I'd like the option to drive it hard, but it will be mounted above a 2x2 tank using a projector lens to focus the beam. That part, at least, is working well, and I promise pictures once it's done. Saw something similar over a reef tank by Luke AKA ILovePhysics. Neat effect.
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post #2 of 11 (permalink) Old 03-24-2015, 12:07 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JoshF View Post
I've been lurking for some time, but my current LED build has driven me crazy enough to join and post.

Simple set-up. Single Vero 18 COB that I'd like to dim. I didn't notice that the first LED driver I picked up didn't go high enough in it's voltage range to actually drive the array past initial firing.

I don't want to solder anything on a board, but wiring is fine.

I'd like the option to drive it hard, but it will be mounted above a 2x2 tank using a projector lens to focus the beam. That part, at least, is working well, and I promise pictures once it's done. Saw something similar over a reef tank by Luke AKA ILovePhysics. Neat effect.
Typical is 29.5V at 1000mA..

you can go up to 2100mA

http://www.bridgelux.com/wp-content/...2014.05.23.pdf

At over 1400-ish ma a LDD-LW @ 1500mA and a 36v power supply works..
http://www.onlinecomponents.com/mean...edium=referral

"W" is wired...
2100mA deiver is harder, and realistically not a great idea due to heat loading..

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post #3 of 11 (permalink) Old 03-24-2015, 02:11 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks! I've been looking at the LDD's, but hadn't realized there were wired versions. Without a controller, is there a way to dim this?
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post #4 of 11 (permalink) Old 03-24-2015, 03:54 AM
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Originally Posted by JoshF View Post
Thanks! I've been looking at the LDD's, but hadn't realized there were wired versions. Without a controller, is there a way to dim this?
good question.. a DIY version using a 555 timer chip

The 100k "pot" controls the dimming
The pre-built Chinese ones are at our favorite flea market..
Just look for low voltage ones.. You will still need a 5V power supply..

Programmability does cost a bit:
http://shop.stevesleds.com/Typhon-Ty...8794102479.htm
Or time building an Aduino..

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Last edited by jeffkrol; 03-24-2015 at 04:05 AM. Reason: pot
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post #5 of 11 (permalink) Old 03-24-2015, 04:39 PM Thread Starter
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Would the EPS-65-36c driver from Meanwell do the trick? It looks right, but I'm learning to double-check!

36V 2A should provide plenty of extra capacity.

Thanks!
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post #6 of 11 (permalink) Old 03-24-2015, 05:12 PM
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Originally Posted by JoshF View Post
Would the EPS-65-36c driver from Meanwell do the trick? It looks right, but I'm learning to double-check!

36V 2A should provide plenty of extra capacity.

Thanks!
no, that is more of a constant voltage power supply. Besides if you look at the de-rating curve for the enclosed unit, it starts losing power around 28V plus or minus.

HLN-60H-30 would work..

http://www.alliedelec.com/images/pro...l/70248261.pdf

"A" is non-dimmable. "B" either 10V variable or 10V PWM, or "pot" dimming.. Good thing is "open" (no dim connector ) is "on"

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post #7 of 11 (permalink) Old 03-25-2015, 06:23 AM Thread Starter
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This is why I'm learning to ask questions!

The power supply and the driver both have the option of being dimmable in this scenario. I'm sure there's a million ways to make this work, but going with a non-dimmable PS and using a Typhon to dim the driver would work, correct?

This didn't seem so complicated when I started looking at this....
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post #8 of 11 (permalink) Old 03-25-2015, 01:30 PM
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Originally Posted by JoshF View Post
This is why I'm learning to ask questions!

The power supply and the driver both have the option of being dimmable in this scenario. I'm sure there's a million ways to make this work, but going with a non-dimmable PS and using a Typhon to dim the driver would work, correct?

This didn't seem so complicated when I started looking at this....
Typhon has a 10V PWM output, so yes the HLN-60H-30 "should" work with it.
the HLN is both power supply and constant current driver in one..

BTW: Dimming is accomplished (no matter the method or signal) by chopping the output. There is no decrease in either voltage nor amps out..

Volt Ohm meters may show an "average" decrease in voltage to the LED's but this is an illusion..

The only time I ever se a need to "dim' a power supply is so it's voltage matches the voltageon an LED strictly for efficiency, not dimming per se..

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post #9 of 11 (permalink) Old 03-30-2015, 10:09 PM Thread Starter
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Well, I misunderstood that the HLN unit was a driver and power supply combo. So, I ordered the HLN AND the LDD...

So, I'm going to use a typhon, so I want the total shut-off capability of the LDD, but I still need a power-supply for the LDD.

Earlier when I asked about the EPS series power supply, you said I wanted a constant current model. For a power supply to feed the driver, don't I want a constant voltage unit? Also, the de-rating curve on the specs shows %load versus temperature, and doesn't start dropping from 100% until over 120F, which should be fine.

So, Typhon controlling a LDD driver, which is powered by EPS series power supply okay?

I just switched to a new position at work and my brain has been rather full lately, so this all seems harder than usual. And, we've gone back and forth between power supplies and drivers. Do I have it right now?
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post #10 of 11 (permalink) Old 03-30-2015, 10:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JoshF View Post
Well, I misunderstood that the HLN unit was a driver and power supply combo. So, I ordered the HLN AND the LDD...

So, I'm going to use a typhon, so I want the total shut-off capability of the LDD, but I still need a power-supply for the LDD.

Earlier when I asked about the EPS series power supply, you said I wanted a constant current model. For a power supply to feed the driver, don't I want a constant voltage unit? Also, the de-rating curve on the specs shows %load versus temperature, and doesn't start dropping from 100% until over 120F, which should be fine.

So, Typhon controlling a LDD driver, which is powered by EPS series power supply okay?

I just switched to a new position at work and my brain has been rather full lately, so this all seems harder than usual. And, we've gone back and forth between power supplies and drivers. Do I have it right now?
Quote:
Earlier when I asked about the EPS series power supply, you said I wanted a constant current model.
If I said that I was def. in error...constant voltage ps to LDD.
Calculate ps voltage needed by adding LED series voltage and add 3v (Meanwell drops 3v) i.e 10 3V(f) diodes in series needs 30V plus 3= 33V power supply is needed..or a standard 36. Amp capacity , calculated easily, is just the LDD's added.. 3 100mA LDD's 3 amps
36x3=108W power supply..
Of course you need the real v(f)

I meant as a stand alone driver/power supply my bad:
Quote:
HLN-60H-30 would work..
http://www.alliedelec.com/images/pro...l/70248261.pdf
"A" is non-dimmable. "B" either 10V variable or 10V PWM, or "pot" dimming.. Good thing is "open" (no dim connector ) is "on"
and it is both constant current and constant voltage.. constant voltage if you stay below the amp range..
As long as the LOAD is under 2A it is in constant voltage mode.. so technically I was correct..



BTW: IF these can do 5V they can do 10V.. In other words a cheap 10v PWM dimmer (or 5)

https://www.plantedtank.net/forums/sh...d.php?t=844329

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Last edited by jeffkrol; 03-31-2015 at 12:05 AM. Reason: ps
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post #11 of 11 (permalink) Old 03-31-2015, 01:03 AM Thread Starter
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Nice find!

Thanks for the help, and I'll order the parts and see how it works!
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