180gal tank stand question - The Planted Tank Forum
 
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post #1 of 12 (permalink) Old 02-17-2009, 02:24 AM Thread Starter
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Question 180gal tank stand question

I'm going to build my 180gal tank stand and im afraid of under estimating and having it collapse so here is what i have i think it maybe too weak for 2100 lbs

3/4" plywood top and bottom
6 4x4 vertical braces
2x4's casing top and bottom


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and finished product (maybe still working out the details)

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post #2 of 12 (permalink) Old 02-17-2009, 03:37 AM
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shmexy!
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post #3 of 12 (permalink) Old 02-17-2009, 03:46 AM
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I am building the frame of my stand almost identical to that design.

all 4x4 and 3/4 ply. It is for a rimless 125.
except the floor is raised to rest on the top of the bottom frame, and i use center braces for the top and bottom pieces and have small wedges in place opposing the miter joints to add rigidity.

I think you could use that for a 210 and not have problems. it is a strong design

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post #4 of 12 (permalink) Old 02-17-2009, 04:31 AM
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id throw in some diagonal 45 degree bracing at the ends
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post #5 of 12 (permalink) Old 02-17-2009, 06:20 AM
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If it was me, I would probebly use 2x6's instaed of 2x4's. I would also run some braces on top and bottom conecting the 4x4's in the middle too. Cross baraces on the back wouldn't hurt either. I tend to overbuild, but I want to make sure it isn't going anywhere.

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post #6 of 12 (permalink) Old 02-17-2009, 02:12 PM
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A solid plywood back and ends (with holes as needed) would provide the racking resistance needed. Then it would be more than strong enough. You could easily cut the 4x4 posts to inset the horizontal pieces, making it easier to "skin" it, too.

Trying to level a stand for such a big tank can be a challenge. You couldn't use levelers at the corners, because that would concentrate the whole load on 4 small points. When I set up a 120 gallon stand I used small shims to get it level, then carefully measured a solid one piece shim for each of the 4 sides contactiing the floor, bandsawing them to fit the gap. That worked pretty well. But, you could probably also make levelers work by using 8 of them.

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post #7 of 12 (permalink) Old 02-17-2009, 02:41 PM
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I would probably try to stay away from 4X4's. When I built my stand and canopy for my 120 I did a lot of research and read in numerous articles how 4x4's are very prone to twisting, and if they do happen to twist this can cause the stand to become unlevel even if just by 1/16 of an inch. If you are going to go with that design you have pictured (which does look great and secure) I'd utilize 2X4's. Even 2X6's and 2X8's have a higher chance of bowing also. If you are worried, just add a few more 2X4's And alway remember to build the stand like building a house...lay wood on wood, dont have the weight held by the screws
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post #8 of 12 (permalink) Old 02-17-2009, 05:39 PM Thread Starter
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So would it be a better idea to exchange the 4x4 for 2 2x4 butted next to each other?


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post #9 of 12 (permalink) Old 02-17-2009, 06:03 PM
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Building a beam, by putting smaller thicknesses of timber together with wood glue (clamp during gluing) is always stronger than using a single baulk of timber. The timber, especially large pieces, is likely to have naturally occuring weaknesses. By combining two or more pieces, they tend to not have weaknesses that go all the way thru the made beam, so they are stronger and less prone to twisting.

My 120 gallon stand is made with 2x4s, with each beam being 4x4 (ie made of two 2x4s together). It has been holding the weight for more than a decade now with no visible sign of problems.

The other thing to look out for is joinery. Your design looks okay, but in general you should make sure that the weight of the tank is not resting on bolts or screws but is transfered thru the wood to the ground.


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post #10 of 12 (permalink) Old 02-17-2009, 06:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Smitty83 View Post
So would it be a better idea to exchange the 4x4 for 2 2x4 butted next to each other?
Exactly! and you can even use a roller and apply glue between the 2 2X4's and screw them together therefore making basically a stronger 4X4 that should'nt be as prone to twisting.

And as houstonhobby said...make sure you lay wood on wood to support the weight, which looks like your design does do. you wouldnt want a few screws holding over 1000 pounds.

I like the finished drawing also..looks great!!!
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post #11 of 12 (permalink) Old 02-19-2009, 02:05 AM
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I would take a look at this thread and have a look at what Biscuit built. You do not need 4x4s and technically you may not even need a center brace to cover that 6' span.

https://www.plantedtank.net/forums/di...opy-build.html

Biscuitslayer references my post as well, but his stand is SO much better and I have not been able to finish mine. Take a look, I think it would be a very good read.
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post #12 of 12 (permalink) Old 02-19-2009, 08:49 AM
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iirc it takes about 750 pounds to break a single 2x4, imo 6 is more than enough to carry 2100 pounds the chalenge is that the stand wants turn into a trapizoid so diagonal bracing or plywood skinning is required.
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