DIY Stand question.... - The Planted Tank Forum
 
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post #1 of 9 (permalink) Old 02-06-2015, 09:04 PM Thread Starter
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DIY Stand question....

i dont need all these extra supports (in purple), the front facing ones have more wood to wood contact making it very strong. but the side braces would make an L like in framing corners in houses, so may be more stable.
which of the purple braces is better to exclude. the front facing ones or the side facing ones. and whats the reasoning.


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post #2 of 9 (permalink) Old 02-06-2015, 09:28 PM
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If you were to get rid of any of the purple braces, i would get rid of the front facing ones. The side ones carry all members of the upper box. If it were my stand i would have both. The vertical load would w properly transfered to the bottom frame that way. Really you dont need the inner braces( green ones) all there really doing is help connect the legs to the upper and lower frames.
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post #3 of 9 (permalink) Old 02-06-2015, 09:34 PM Thread Starter
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its only going on a 20G , thats why i dont need all the braces. its a bit overkill.
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post #4 of 9 (permalink) Old 02-06-2015, 09:47 PM
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I'm bad with colors... Are the corner uprights purple colored? If it's them, then the ones on the end (not front/back) are the more important ones, since both of the horizontals rest on them.

Personally, I think it would look kinda funny without both pieces in the corners, unless you end up skinning the whole frame or something similar.

Also, eliminating those four pieces will only add up to 1, maybe 2 2x4s, so that's only a couple bucks saved.

Maybe try using 2x3s, they are pretty cheap, usually kiln-dried (for certain values of "dry"...), and I think they look better in some places then 2x4s. I usually do my corner verticals with paired 2x3 and 2x4.

And, as Dustin87 mentioned, you can skip the pieces on the inside corners, but it will make placing fasteners a bit trickier. If you have a pockethole jig, that wouldn't be an issue, otherwise you are going to have to put some really long screws through the 4" width of a 2x4.
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post #5 of 9 (permalink) Old 02-06-2015, 09:48 PM
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I just finished a stand exactly like that for a 20 gallon salt water tank. The design is solid. You can never have over kill in my opinion when it comes to making a stand. I wouldn't remove any purple pieces, they're not hard to make and offer piece of mind. Beside the purple pieces are meant to hold all the weight removing them will only added pressure to the screws. 20 gallons isn't a lot till its on the floor.


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post #6 of 9 (permalink) Old 02-06-2015, 09:51 PM
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Get rid of the inside ones and just toenail/ screw the purple legs in place. 3" screws will be fine. Do you plan on wrapping it?
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post #7 of 9 (permalink) Old 02-06-2015, 09:53 PM
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Having both purple ones are important, they help with lateral loads, unless you are wrapping with plywood. Then the sheets will help with the lateral loads
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post #8 of 9 (permalink) Old 02-07-2015, 12:49 AM
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i would get rid of the vertical 4 and just use the purple ones for the vertical support, This is way way way over kill and in all honesty this thing would hold a 20gallon if you just used 3/4inch birch plywood and got rid of all the 2x4.
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post #9 of 9 (permalink) Old 02-07-2015, 05:02 AM
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For a 20 gallon you could glue together 4 pieces of 1/2" particle board into a box shape and be fine.

Everyone always gets nitpicky on stand strength, but you don't need the purple pieces at all for a smaller tank.

I would make sure to use screws and nails or bolts. On my stand I screwed the wood into place, making sure it was level, and then put some heavy gauge nails in, plus all the joints had wood glue.

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