Need some help building my ADA stand. - The Planted Tank Forum
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post #1 of 100 (permalink) Old 01-26-2009, 07:37 PM Thread Starter
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Need some help building my ADA stand.

I think I'm going to build an ADA like stand. I have a few questions before I start though.

Tank Specs: ADA Mini M 5.15g ~55lbs

Stand will be built with lap joints so it will be a box inside a box with staggered joints. I've got pictures and dimensions hand drawn but thats as far as I got. Maybe I will check out Google Sketchup.

Questions:

1- Should I use 1/2" of 3/4" this will be doubles for either 1" or 1.5" total thickness. Using Birch Plywood.

2- How well does plywood router? I want to do a 3/8" quarter round on the edges to give it a slight roundness. This will be done with a Dremel Router kit as I have everything but the base.

3- I will be attempting to use Quikrete Garage Floor 2 part Epoxy. Inside and outside will be finished with this. Anyone used this stuff on wood? How did it do on the layered edge?

4- What height should I use. 28 or 30". With my measurements 28" is the least amount of waste for plywood as I can use 1 4x8 sheet and 1 4x4 sheet and have little waste. to go 30" I would need 2 4x8 sheets. Current stand is at 34" but I could easily use the 6" drop for working in the tank.

I may start on this tomorrow if I have time. I will have Lowes cut the wood for me. I talked to one guy and he said he could cut within 1/8" for me.

Thanks

Craig

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post #2 of 100 (permalink) Old 01-26-2009, 07:59 PM
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Lap joints or butt joints?
Either should be fine, but I'm guessing butt joints as you are having Lowes cut the wood for you. Especially since you are making this a double box, half inch plywood will be plenty. Except for the 3/8 round over quarter inch would probably be plenty for a five gallon tank. Double 3/4" ply would be overkill.

Plywood routs fine - but. There may be voids that you will have to fill. Such is the nature of the product.

I've never used a two part epoxy coating. The video at the home improvement store makes it look easy. Since it appears to be self leveling, I'd suggest you practice on some scrap first.

Personally I'd start over on the plans and save even more wood. You really aren't looking at much weight. Properly glued, an interior frame of 1x skinned with 1/2 inch birch plywood will be more than sufficient. I think you could probably get this down to half a sheet of material and have pieces for shelves. With cabinet grade birch plywood and not birch veneered whatever, 3/8" would be fine.

Have fun.
post #3 of 100 (permalink) Old 01-26-2009, 08:07 PM Thread Starter
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The problem with 1x framing inside is that isn't what I'm looking for. I'm not worried about the cost of the ply but am looking for a seamless stand inside and out. No frame and skin. I could do it with alot less material that way but hate the looks of it.

I figured there would be some voids in the ply, this stuff is $50 a sheet and is cabinet grade. I figure I will just use a high quality wood filler to help smooth it out.

Downloading google sketchup now...

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post #4 of 100 (permalink) Old 01-26-2009, 08:31 PM
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Check unirdnas build journal

doubling the ply is over-done. with 3/4" you will be more than fine for only 5G, even 1/2" will work but I haven't seen good quality at HD or Loews around here. Just check the AGA or Perfecto stands for 90+G. Check into pocket hole joints for strong and easy joints.

I used 3/4" cabinet grade ply for a 90G stand. Worked very well in my opinion.

Good luck!

Cheers,
Jens


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post #5 of 100 (permalink) Old 01-26-2009, 09:01 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jens View Post
Check unirdnas build journal

doubling the ply is over-done. with 3/4" you will be more than fine for only 5G, even 1/2" will work but I haven't seen good quality at HD or Loews around here. Just check the AGA or Perfecto stands for 90+G. Check into pocket hole joints for strong and easy joints.

I used 3/4" cabinet grade ply for a 90G stand. Worked very well in my opinion.

Good luck!
That would be nice if I had a biscuit jointer / pocket screw set and a workshop but I live in an apartment and it is currently -5 outside. Everything has to be done inside my apartment. Also I can find nice 1/2" but the 3/4" at Lowes looks like crap. Home Depot has some nice stuff but they only garuntee cuts within 3/8" locally here. Menards as some really nice stock but they don't cut plywood.

Oh yeah I tried google sketch up and don't like it... blah.

Craig

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post #6 of 100 (permalink) Old 01-26-2009, 09:09 PM
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this is my ada knock off style stand in oak .
here is a pic of the inside

is this what you are trying to do? but in grey?
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post #7 of 100 (permalink) Old 01-26-2009, 09:10 PM Thread Starter
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yep...

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post #8 of 100 (permalink) Old 01-26-2009, 09:16 PM
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1/2 inch would be fine for the wieght but i would probally do 3/4. the reason being is that plywood at home centers i.e. lowes,homedepot etc. is not the straightest/flatest out there and most of the 1/2 stuff they have is warped. 3/4 on the other hand is 50/50 lol! take a friend and try to find the flatest you can! it really matters when you do the door. i would build it with pocket screws and glue!
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post #9 of 100 (permalink) Old 01-26-2009, 09:23 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by coseal View Post
1/2 inch would be fine for the wieght but i would probally do 3/4. the reason being is that plywood at home centers i.e. lowes,homedepot etc. is not the straightest/flatest out there and most of the 1/2 stuff they have is warped. 3/4 on the other hand is 50/50 lol! take a friend and try to find the flatest you can! it really matters when you do the door. i would build it with pocket screws and glue!
I'm going to be laminating 2 sheets of 1/2" together for 1" thickness. Also I have to have them make my cuts as I don't own a table saw or have a place to cut wood for that matter. Only problem with living in an apartment is my garage is about 100 ft away and doesn't have power. Plus with as cold as it is I'm not working out in it.

Craig

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"C'mon, they're just plants, man, no big deal -- try some"
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post #10 of 100 (permalink) Old 01-26-2009, 09:29 PM
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i just re read your post.... there is no need to double up the wood. with this style of construction your cuts must be square and true. where as a "skinned" stand can be a little "off" in some areas as long as the top is flat and level.
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post #11 of 100 (permalink) Old 01-26-2009, 09:33 PM
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you can buy a small "kreg" brand jig for like 20 bucks. makes sure you get the right size screws for the material you are using. i recomend kreg brand screws as well! they are square drive tho so you may need to pick up a bit. with a shop vac i can easily see doing this in my living room =)
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post #12 of 100 (permalink) Old 01-26-2009, 09:39 PM
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i have some construction pics of a couple i have made. if you want me to post them i will. might help with your design. i dont wanna clog up your thread with my pics. lmk
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post #13 of 100 (permalink) Old 01-26-2009, 09:40 PM Thread Starter
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go ahead and post them. I may go with a single sheet of 3/4" as if I make it similar to yours I can get it all out of one sheet.

Craig

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Quote:
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"C'mon, they're just plants, man, no big deal -- try some"
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post #14 of 100 (permalink) Old 01-26-2009, 09:59 PM
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this one is for a 30x30 cube tank about 80 gals

and an inside shot

this one is for 36x24.



this stand was "doubled" up like you were talking about..

way overkill for a 5 gal tank! hope these pics help some
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post #15 of 100 (permalink) Old 01-26-2009, 10:54 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the pics... I am going to do just a single 3/4" Birch cabinet ply stand. I think I will put a space inside of it to be hard wired for built in timers and outlets.

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Quote:
Originally Posted by cdwill View Post
"C'mon, they're just plants, man, no big deal -- try some"
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