Easy fill options? How to regulate fill temp? - The Planted Tank Forum
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post #1 of 16 (permalink) Old 01-29-2015, 01:14 AM Thread Starter
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Easy fill options? How to regulate fill temp?

Ok. So I hate my python.

I own my house. Tank location is permanent. (38 currently. Switching to 40b)

Planing on hard plumbing a drain T with ball valve off the outlet of the eheim 2217. This will go to basement and fall into basement sump which drains to my large groundwater pond. Seems pretty simple...

Now I need to figure out how to refill tank without python. How do I control the temp of ingoing water? An aging bin could only go in basement and I can't see how that could work...


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post #2 of 16 (permalink) Old 01-29-2015, 07:57 AM
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thermostatic water tap? you dial in the required temp and open up the tap.
and if you want it automated by any means you can just add a solonoid at the hose end of the tap
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post #3 of 16 (permalink) Old 01-29-2015, 02:56 PM
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If you used an aging vat you could put a pump in to pump the water up and use a remote control to turn it on and off. Like what is used for woodworkers dust collection systems.

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post #4 of 16 (permalink) Old 01-29-2015, 04:45 PM
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With a basement that is available, that is certainly the way I would go.
I set my reserve in the fish room due to slab floors in the area but still it is very nice.
Basement refills may require a trip to the basement or auto top off to monitor the refill.

When I set mine, I did a DIY tether to turn the pump on and off but now I would go for the remote controlled outlets.
Lots of better conditions for the fish. The temperature come up to room or you heat it to the tank temperature. Any water conditioner can be added and do it's work before the tank which makes it more stable. Plastic food grade barrels and a hole through the floor if you are lucky enough to get it lined up correctly. Setting the barrel on a shelf reduces the head height and size of pump needed. Small cheap sump pumps are not that bad to buy and they are made for pumping water out of basements.
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post #5 of 16 (permalink) Old 01-30-2015, 05:44 AM
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I keep a 30 gallon drum in my attic, to top off and refill my 90g in my sons second floor bedroom. I ran a cold water line straight up there and zip tied a toilet fill valve inside the drum to keep the water level up. I keep an air line and a set of 25w heaters in the drum. Placed the drum on a pallet and ran a 1 1/2" pvc drain out of the bottom, down the wall and in comes out right under the tank with a ball valve and then into my sump. Works great, just have to go up and clean out the drum and check on the heaters every now and then.
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post #6 of 16 (permalink) Old 01-30-2015, 11:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sevamortner View Post
I keep a 30 gallon drum in my attic, to top off and refill my 90g in my sons second floor bedroom. I ran a cold water line straight up there and zip tied a toilet fill valve inside the drum to keep the water level up. I keep an air line and a set of 25w heaters in the drum. Placed the drum on a pallet and ran a 1 1/2" pvc drain out of the bottom, down the wall and in comes out right under the tank with a ball valve and then into my sump. Works great, just have to go up and clean out the drum and check on the heaters every now and then.
That's a great idea if the joists can take the weight. Many houses made with a truss can't.

Then of course if something goes wrong and leaks...

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post #7 of 16 (permalink) Old 01-31-2015, 04:06 AM
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There are shower valves available that hold a constant water temperature (actually, a constant ratio between hot and cold water). I haven't tried it, but it should be easy to plumb one in your fill line system, adjust it correctly the first time, and it should be correct from then on until your water heater temperature is adjusted again. You don't need great accuracy. Plus or minus 5F degrees is fine.

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post #8 of 16 (permalink) Old 01-31-2015, 04:11 AM
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I would have laid out cats, but the wall i set the tub on is the support wall so i was not worried.

I agree, don't do this if you have a trussed roof.

Yea I've been meaning to put a drain pan under it for a while now, playing with fire never gets old.
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post #9 of 16 (permalink) Old 01-31-2015, 04:27 AM
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Originally Posted by Hoppy View Post
There are shower valves available that hold a constant water temperature (actually, a constant ratio between hot and cold water). I haven't tried it, but it should be easy to plumb one in your fill line system, adjust it correctly the first time, and it should be correct from then on until your water heater temperature is adjusted again. You don't need great accuracy. Plus or minus 5F degrees is fine.
They are really simple to plumb and takes only a few minutes to make adjustments to them. However as the ratio is between hot and cold and not a specific temperature, changes in the weather, available flow (sm1 is running the hose outside) and odd things like the wife decided she wantedr to turn up the big red dial on your hot water heater will make small to large changes in temp. tho I agree you would likely be just fine so long as you pay a small amount of attention. You will have to run both hot and cold water line obv. For a little bit more $$ I'd say just pickup a P.O.U electric tank-less water heater. Many are small enough to mount in a tank stand.

Bump: To elaborate on "changes in the weather" I mean the temp of the water coming from your supplier, I see 15 degree differences (summer/winter) here in Chicago.
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post #10 of 16 (permalink) Old 01-31-2015, 11:09 AM Thread Starter
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That is my concern with a thermo valve. I live in Massachusetts with a shallow well. Season changes seem to swing it a lot (unscientific observation).

Perhaps pipe in the thermo valve to approx right temp...then have an inline temp probe right after?? Make adjustments on the fly if needed?



I like the attic idea. hadnt thought up. Tank is on an outside wall of my log cabin unfortunately. So wall access is a no-go!


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post #11 of 16 (permalink) Old 01-31-2015, 12:46 PM
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I like the storage vessel and pump.It allows for adjustments if needed.Also just overall better to let water "adjust" for 24 hours if possible.I safe(seachem),airate with bubbles and powerhead and preheat.
My sump is in the basement so I pump out/in right down there .
Haven't had water or fishstuff on livingroom floor in years!

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post #12 of 16 (permalink) Old 01-31-2015, 05:52 PM
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Using gravity to refill from an attic resavoir works really well if you have the ability to run a water line up to the attic to fill it. I have an rodi unit that makes water into a 75 gal plastic tank with a valve at the bottom. There is tubing with a second valve at the end attached to the tank outlet. The tank has a heater in it I plug in the day before water changes. I used a laundry machine tray underneath piped outside in case of emergency flood. At water change I open tank drain valve bring tubing downstairs put in tank and open second valve till tank is full.
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post #13 of 16 (permalink) Old 01-31-2015, 11:24 PM Thread Starter
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So if I put a tub in the basement, what kind of pump do I need to push it up that kind of head?


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post #14 of 16 (permalink) Old 01-31-2015, 11:50 PM
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Could get a small extrol bladder tank too. Should keep the water under enough pressure to push it up there. I mean they work on whole house systems so one short run is really nothing. Then it looks nice and clean too without big ol barrels or anything laying around. When the extrol drops below a certain pressure, the valve will send a signal you can use to open a solenoid that will keep the extrol full. Couple that with the pou heater already suggested and you'd be golden.

One much smaller obviously, but something like this.
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post #15 of 16 (permalink) Old 02-01-2015, 01:27 AM
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You could probably get by with a 1/4 horse submersible utility pump for like $60 - $80 at HD/Lowes ect. Might be a little slow, Depends on how high your running. Don't forget you can raise your tub up on blocks to reduce head height a bit.
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