Talontsiawd's $5 Leak Free DIY CO2 - The Planted Tank Forum
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post #1 of 16 (permalink) Old 11-24-2008, 10:22 PM Thread Starter
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Talontsiawd's $5 Leak Free DIY CO2

I know some of you have the same problems as me, over time, your siliconed tubing comes loose under pressure if you are using a glass diffuser. Instead of resiliconing the tubes every few weeks or pouring glue on, for $5, you can have this presumably leak free. This is my attempt to stop leaks for good.

Note-I have just done this, i will post any issues if they arise

Goal-To have a leak free DIY co2 system for a MUCH longer period of time compared to the tutorials out there

Materials
-3/16 Compression Fitting with barb (add 2 more if you have a separator)
-Nuts if not included
-Silicone tubing

Tools
-Drill
-3/16 drill bit
-Razor Blade
-Scissors
-Wrenches to tighten nuts

Time 10-30 min.

Step one-Materials
This is what you basically need, just giving a visual. You don't need washers, i was going to use them but they really arn't needed.


Step Two-Drill 3/16 in hole
Just like every other tutorial drill a hole. This needs to match the size of the compression fittings


Step Three-Silicone Fittings and Cap
I don't even think this is necessary except to keep the nut from backing out. Gives extra protection from leaks. Blow on the fitting to get any silicone out of the fitting's air flow.


Step Four-Tighten Fittings
This is simply taking your wrenches and tightening it all up. Nothing challenging here, just make sure they are tight. I forgot to take a pick of the red cap, here is my seperator cap
Bottom

Top


Step Five-Attach Hoses

Put your silicone tubing over the barbs. I used silicone here again. Definitely not needed. However, because the barbs are bigger than the tubing, it lubricates them and makes them much easier to put on. So, even though over kill, it makes it easier.


Step Six-Throw your silicone engulfed original reactor away.



Like i said, i have not had a chance to see how long it will last. But it is so much sturdier than other tutorials. I'm sure i'm not the first to do this but it's easy and costs under $5, assuming you have tubing (you can use your old stuff if you want) and tools. It is much nicer and if it does leak, it will be much easier to fit. The fittings can be moved to new bottles in the future as well if a cap fails.

Hope this helps some people.

-Matt

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post #2 of 16 (permalink) Old 12-01-2008, 06:08 PM
 
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Homegrown sells these fittings in plastic - very tough - for $.15
I use those and crazy glue and mine stays sealed, clean, and easy to disconnect.
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post #3 of 16 (permalink) Old 12-01-2008, 11:24 PM
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These are all rather unnecessary. You'll find multiple posts here on how to attach airlines leak free to bottle caps w/o the use of silicone, glue, fittings or anything else.
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post #4 of 16 (permalink) Old 12-01-2008, 11:39 PM
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Hey, nice job! Brohawk is right though, you can simply drill a small hole in the top of the cap, heat the tubing with how water and pull the tubing through the hole with a little creativity. Once the tubing cools, it expands and fills the hole. Little dap of silicone and your set.

But I give props to creativity!


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post #5 of 16 (permalink) Old 12-02-2008, 12:02 AM
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Actually Glenn, I was alluding to drilling a hole the same size as the INNER diameter of the tubing, cut the tubing end at an angle so it has a pointed end, pull it through the hole w/ pliers, then trim off the end. NO heating and NO silicone needed whatsoever!
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post #6 of 16 (permalink) Old 12-02-2008, 12:05 AM
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Yea, I do the whole angle thing. Heating it just makes it quicker to slid in. I used to add the silicone just for the heck of it. But you are certainly right, you don't need it.


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post #7 of 16 (permalink) Old 12-02-2008, 12:07 AM
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Cool. Same page here!
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post #8 of 16 (permalink) Old 12-02-2008, 12:16 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brohawk View Post
Actually Glenn, I was alluding to drilling a hole the same size as the INNER diameter of the tubing, cut the tubing end at an angle so it has a pointed end, pull it through the hole w/ pliers, then trim off the end. NO heating and NO silicone needed whatsoever!
Are you using a glass diffuser? I did it that way at first, no matter how small the hole, i end up with leaks, especially over time (not long). This takes about the same effort, $5, and probably doesn't even need silicone. The main thing, you don't need to rely on the tubing to not bend or mishape to start leaks (i got most mine when moving a tube around).

I'm not saying your way can't work, i just think this way is simple, supplies are available every where, it's cheap, etc. There are probably 100+ other ways to do this, i just found it was easy and although it hasn't withstood the test of time, i don't see it having issues.

-Matt

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post #9 of 16 (permalink) Old 12-02-2008, 12:54 AM
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I've never had a leak, and always use glass diffusers on them. Maybe it's the type of tubing you're using. Bends have never caused me issues either.
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post #10 of 16 (permalink) Old 12-02-2008, 12:57 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brohawk View Post
I've never had a leak, and always use glass diffusers on them. Maybe it's the type of tubing you're using. Bends have never caused me issues either.
That could be it, i just buy the regular stuff they have at the LFS.

-Matt

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post #11 of 16 (permalink) Old 12-02-2008, 02:36 PM
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I just use standard plastic hose barbs (the kind used for joining two pieces of airline) and some WeldBond glue.

I swear i'd break the fittings before i get them outta the cap now.
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post #12 of 16 (permalink) Old 02-20-2009, 08:04 PM
 
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you can buy half barb fittings at ace hardware that are nylon so they are invert safe and you can buy aquarium silicone at home depot for 4 bucks which is loads cheaper then the lfs and the box store
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post #13 of 16 (permalink) Old 02-21-2009, 12:27 AM
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Don't take this the wrong way, but your using your compression fittings wrong. What you have done with them will not create a better seal than any method you've done before. When using compression fittings you MUST also have either a compression ring, or a compression sleave. The fitting you have is designed to go from copper(or other soft metal) airline, to a poly, or flexible airline. The ring would be placed on the copper before putting the fitting together. This ring is then compressed inside the fitting when tightened to create a leak free conversion from copper to poly(hence compression fitting). Its purpose is not at all to be siliconed into anything.

33G: Eheim 2224, Finally have pressurized Co2 and Reactor
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post #14 of 16 (permalink) Old 02-22-2009, 07:44 PM
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i guess when disconnecting you want to rotate the whole bottle while holding the cap still, right? so you'll need to cut and replace the duct tape.
how many of you make a pressure release valve to avoid a sticky explosion?
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post #15 of 16 (permalink) Old 02-26-2009, 03:16 PM
 
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Neat idea, but here is maybe one that's better. Hit your local hobby store that deals in RC airplane parts. There are small bulkheads made for fuel tanks that are the perfect size for airline. One web based source is Tower Hobbies.

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