Keeping DIY CO2 Levels Constant? - The Planted Tank Forum
 
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post #1 of 5 (permalink) Old 08-12-2008, 09:35 PM Thread Starter
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Arrow Keeping DIY CO2 Levels Constant?

Hey all,

I have a 10 gallon tank with two 2-liter bottles of yeast for CO2 production. I've tried various CO2 delivery methods in this tank:

-feeding the CO2 tube into the intake of my Aquaclear HOB filter
-feeding the CO2 tube into the intake of a small water pump for a CO2 misting effect
-creating a small reactor out of a small water pump, a small plastic bottle, and a filter sponge; the tube would go into the pump intake, blowing small bubbles into the attached plastic bottle whose open bottom was blocked by the sponge, thus trapping the bubbles and tossing them around in the reactor chamger

All of these methods managed to turn my dropchecker (with 4dKh solution) a nice lime-green by morning after running through the night, but by the end of a photoperiod of photosynthesis, the dropchecker would be bluish-green.

Is there any way to make my levels more constant throughout the day? I know I can't very well ask the yeast to hurry up and produce more (if only )

My bps is usually around 3-4, and while I know HOBs aren't the best, my water level is up as high as it can go, and while I still get surface rippling, there is no breakage of the surface.

Algae-wise, I have some fuzz algae on my plant leaves (nothing dire, only noticeable up close) and diatoms (it's a new tank). There has been some BBA on my glass, but these have been tiny amounts, nothing impressive.

My plants are doing okay, but I'd really like to keep the CO2 nice and constant for them

Any advice? Better diffusion methods?

Thanks,
CF
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post #2 of 5 (permalink) Old 08-13-2008, 12:17 AM
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maybe a glass diffuser?

20g
16g>
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post #3 of 5 (permalink) Old 08-13-2008, 12:46 AM
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some other options
-use a small canister filter (toms rapids filter) hook it up to the intake and diffuse that way
-place a limewood airstone at the end of the co2 airline and place that at the bottom of the 10g right under the outflow, that way the tiny bubbles stay under water longer..
- hagen ladder works well as well

the problem also with diffusing via hob intake is that once the co2 enters the intake, it travels down the tube to the impeller and yes it gets chopped up there but then it just exits out of the side hole there. Basically you dont get 100% diffusion (sure its not even 75%)


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post #4 of 5 (permalink) Old 08-13-2008, 12:57 AM
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I am having trouble understanding what is going on. When you say that after your lighting period, your drop checker becomes blue-green. Does it change back to lime green by the start of the next lighting period? Otherwise it sounds like your yeast solution is burning out too quickly and the recipe needs to be tweaked. 2 2L bottles on a 10 gallon sounds excessive. I am only using 3 1L bottles on a 30 gallon.
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post #5 of 5 (permalink) Old 08-13-2008, 01:18 AM Thread Starter
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Oh, yeah, it changes back to lime-green by the next lighting period.

I just worry that, by the end of the day, the plants may be limited by CO2, and that the fluctuating levels will invite algae into my tank. My yeast is chugging along fine.

Everything is pearling like mad (my lily has to be kept very firmly rooted; when it was still attached to its bulb, I would find it floating about at the surface, buoyed by all of its own bubble), but some plants (namely my microswords) aren't doing as well as others, and I want to make sure I'm not limited by CO2. Hence the two bottles .

I don't have the money to get a canister right now, even a smallish one. And I thought the HOB intake method dissolved fairly well... though I suppose not . Time to look into the other diffusion methods y'all are listing.

Did anyone ever try Tom Barr's internal venturi reactor? I'm currently looking into grabbing my old water pump and messing with it to produce that (doesn't look too hard). Anyone had good results?

Thanks,
CF
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