iAqua: My Touch Interface Aquarium Controller (Arduino) - Page 40 - The Planted Tank Forum
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post #586 of 2129 (permalink) Old 11-19-2014, 02:22 AM Thread Starter
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My plan is to have it completely bug free and can be setup by anyone in no time with more options and packaged nicely and I'm going to sell a few to people I know who already want one and anyone else, not to make lots of money as we both know that can't be done on a low scale but for the fun of it. Of course when I'm done I'm going to post the code and everything here so people can do it themselves. I have a enclosed top canopy for my tank and I'm going to fit the screen in so it looks professional, everything else will be hidden.

Here's what I plan to do tonight.
That should be fun to make a bunch! It'll be cool to see the finished product. I know people would love to have them made, and several have asked or PM'd, but I just have zero interest in it, especially something as complicated and time consuming as this (although O2's board takes a massive amount of work out of it). I have no doubt that you are the type that will build some very nice units for people. Make sure to post plenty of pics!

Also, I like your dosing pump screens – nice work!


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post #587 of 2129 (permalink) Old 11-19-2014, 02:34 AM
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Yeah screenshots look ok now I actually have to make it work.

This helps pass the time, hate winter so need something to do. O2's board is great and a must for what I want to accomplish as it simplifies, shrinks and much quicker to assemble. I'm hoping O2 can help me out when I get there. Ultimately I would like to put everything on one board and get rid of the mega and shield completely, I know it can be done, ears ringing O2.
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post #588 of 2129 (permalink) Old 11-19-2014, 03:52 AM
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Yeah screenshots look ok now I actually have to make it work.

This helps pass the time, hate winter so need something to do. O2's board is great and a must for what I want to accomplish as it simplifies, shrinks and much quicker to assemble. I'm hoping O2 can help me out when I get there. Ultimately I would like to put everything on one board and get rid of the mega and shield completely, I know it can be done, ears ringing O2.
LOL- My soldering iron is waiting patiently. I'm all for integrating the TFT/LCD shield into the next iAqua shield design, but the Mega is a long way off. They're too complicated and soldering the main chip would be a nightmare. It's cheaper to just let the Chinese handle that.


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225 Gal, Glass "Reef Ready" w/ dual Iwaki Pumps & 2 Ocean Clear inline filters. Makers 72" heat sink w/ 12 NanoBox V3 led arrays, custom built CC drivers. All controlled by a BlueFish "mini" Led Controller.
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, and a 20lb CO2 system w/ Milwaukee Ph Controller.
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post #589 of 2129 (permalink) Old 11-19-2014, 03:59 AM
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I could not even think about soldering all those tiny arms on solder past flux and a rework hot air station and I wouldn't do it

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post #590 of 2129 (permalink) Old 11-19-2014, 07:29 AM
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There's only about 100 pins, shouldn't take more than 5min.

The TFT shield built in would be cool, probably bring the cost down a bit too. I have a weller wes51 soldering iron, I'm ready to rock.

What I want is the mega, your board and screen be in one case with a cable going to a break out box with all the connectors to keep it clean. The breakout box should be easy to design.
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post #591 of 2129 (permalink) Old 11-19-2014, 08:51 AM
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Another odd issue is restarting. Unplugging it to move to a new location, and having it power back up, the GUI does not fully reload. No distortion anymore, but incomplete graphics. I tried over and over, and waited 15 minutes once before powering up again. Once it's been powered down (by unplugging), the ONLY way (so far) to get the full GUI fully back up (distorted or not) is to reconnect the laptop and re-upload the software to the Arduino from scratch. Then everything is great again. (except the distortion) (and only until I unplug it again)

After restarting:

Quote:
Originally Posted by O2surplus View Post
Try re-seating the connection between the Mega and the iAqua shield. The male pins at the iAqua shield's 36 pin header don't make the best electrical connection to the Mega unless you tweak them a bit. I recommend using a thin straight edged tool to bend the two columns of male pins slightly away from each other and then use care to reinstall the shield on the Mega.
I had the same screen problems with mine at first, but noticed that the problem was slightly different or non existent, depending on which iAqua shield I was using. Being that they're all slightly different, I knew the problem with the screen had to be a hardware problem and not software. Tweaking the pins solved the problem.
So here's an odd one.

The new software (1.0.4) loaded great, and I was able to set all of the configurations. Nothing had changed in terms of hardware configuration. But suddenly I'm having the same issue again, which had gone away. The graphics aren't loading. It still redraws the correct time and temp, dosing vial level, and time since last feeding. The buttons at the bottom even seem to work, even though you can't see them. It's just the graphics aren't drawing. The screen looks almost exactly like the photo above.

Thoughts? It feels like a graphics issue, like it won't read the SD card, but it still seems to work and has content when I plug it into a computer, and nothing has really changed as far as the SD card is concerned.

And, worse than before, now even if I reload the software, there is no change.


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post #592 of 2129 (permalink) Old 11-19-2014, 08:56 AM
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Iv just been looking over the wiring diagram and where you have the BC377 transistor could we replace this with a 10k or 20k potentiometer so we can have more control of the brightness of the lcd screen?
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post #593 of 2129 (permalink) Old 11-19-2014, 09:16 AM
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kman I think it has to be the actual card, it sounds like this library is outdated and picky, that card could be to fast or something. I would say the older the card the better. I have a 10 year old 1g I'm using with no issues. You could have issues with any newer cards.
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post #594 of 2129 (permalink) Old 11-19-2014, 09:55 AM
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iAqua: My Touch Interface Aquarium Controller (Arduino)

Quote:
Originally Posted by robsworld78 View Post
kman I think it has to be the actual card, it sounds like this library is outdated and picky, that card could be to fast or something. I would say the older the card the better. I have a 10 year old 1g I'm using with no issues. You could have issues with any newer cards.
The old 32mb (yes, mb) card I had was too slow. Switching to this 2gb card (at least 5 years old, possibly as many as 8?) solved the issues the first time around. Now they seem to be back. The SD card is a SanDisk Ultra II, which is not an especially card, compared to the the Sandisk Extreme III I used from the same time period. (Old 32mb card was a Canon-branded card that came with a Canon digital camera circa 2006)

I wonder if the issue is the LCD itself? Other than O2's board which he tested before sending me, that's the only remaining common piece of equipment. (I've been through 2 TFT shields and 2 Megas as well)

I might try to find a beefier power supply than the 1amp 12v wall wart I'm using. I'm not quite ready to move over to the hardcore 13 amp PS I have, but maybe I can scrounge a beefier wall wart.

Seems like eventually, it does come back. It's back at the moment. But I certainly don't feel like I can trust it.


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post #595 of 2129 (permalink) Old 11-19-2014, 10:14 AM
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That is odd but I'm betting its the card. I can't image its the display, possibly the shield because the card is there. Try finding a 512mb or 1gb card at a flee market or something that's where I'm hoping to get a bunch.

Do the images only disappear on a power up, if you don't power it down now will they always stay? If so it could be the initialization that's hit and miss. Or can they disappear by going to a new screen? I've powered mine up 100's of times now and its never missed so I know its not in the code (other than the library possibly).

EDIT: Just so you know if you change any of the heater settings over 100 it will continue to reset itself when you go back into the heater settings, doubt that has anything to do with it though.
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post #596 of 2129 (permalink) Old 11-19-2014, 10:31 AM
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That is odd but I'm betting its the card. I can't image its the display, possibly the shield because the card is there. Try finding a 512mb or 1gb card at a flee market or something that's where I'm hoping to get a bunch.

Do the images only disappear on a power up, if you don't power it down now will they always stay? If so it could be the initialization that's hit and miss. Or can they disappear by going to a new screen? I've powered mine up 100's of times now and its never missed so I know its not in the code (other than the library possibly).

EDIT: Just so you know if you change any of the heater settings over 100 it will continue to reset itself when you go back into the heater settings, doubt that has anything to do with it though.

I believe everything stays as long as it's powered up. It's initialization that seems to be hit and miss, as you surmised.

The card reader is on the LCD itself, not the TFT Shield. That's why I was wondering if that would make a difference. (And again, I've changed shields and Arduinos and still had the issue... The LCD is the only part I don't have two of. That and O2's board.)

I'll keep an eye out for low capacity cards but I'm not super hopeful I'll stumble across any.


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post #597 of 2129 (permalink) Old 11-19-2014, 01:04 PM
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After the feed cycle ended I noticed aux2 didn't return where it should, the problem is in screenFeeding() and feedingStop() routine.

was
Code:
else if (feedPower.pwrAux2==1) AlarmPwrAux2_Off();
should be
Code:
else if (feedPower.pwrAux2==0) AlarmPwrAux2_Off();
was
Code:
else if (preFeedPower.pwrAux2==1) AlarmPwrAux2_Off();
should be
Code:
else if (preFeedPower.pwrAux2==0) AlarmPwrAux2_Off();
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post #598 of 2129 (permalink) Old 11-19-2014, 01:30 PM Thread Starter
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Iv just been looking over the wiring diagram and where you have the BC377 transistor could we replace this with a 10k or 20k potentiometer so we can have more control of the brightness of the lcd screen?
The transistor gives you PWM control over the LED backlight, meaning you have programatic control from 0-255 levels of brightness. Furthermore, it allows for auto dimming the display using the ambient light sensor. If you want to give that up for a knob, go for it. I won't be making any changes though. Just ignore the "screen" settings, and don't bother installing the ambient light sensor.

Quote:
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EDIT: Just so you know if you change any of the heater settings over 100 it will continue to reset itself when you go back into the heater settings, doubt that has anything to do with it though.
Correct. That was absolutely intentional coding. I can't imagine why anybody on earth would want to set their heater setting over 100 degrees, unless you are trying to replicate a hot spring.

Quote:
Originally Posted by kman View Post
I believe everything stays as long as it's powered up. It's initialization that seems to be hit and miss, as you surmised.

The card reader is on the LCD itself, not the TFT Shield. That's why I was wondering if that would make a difference. (And again, I've changed shields and Arduinos and still had the issue... The LCD is the only part I don't have two of. That and O2's board.)

I'll keep an eye out for low capacity cards but I'm not super hopeful I'll stumble across any.
I'm pretty sure it's going to end up being the card or the LCD cable length.

Quote:
Originally Posted by robsworld78 View Post
After the feed cycle ended I noticed aux2 didn't return where it should, the problem is in screenFeeding() and feedingStop() routine.

was
Code:
else if (feedPower.pwrAux2==1) AlarmPwrAux2_Off();
should be
Code:
else if (feedPower.pwrAux2==0) AlarmPwrAux2_Off();
was
Code:
else if (preFeedPower.pwrAux2==1) AlarmPwrAux2_Off();
should be
Code:
else if (preFeedPower.pwrAux2==0) AlarmPwrAux2_Off();
Good catch! That was code I changed a little over a month ago because I was starting up some new plants and wanted to hit them with extra light. I hooked up 2 Current Sat + lights in addition to my E-Series for about 2-3 weeks (crazy growth!). I was using Aux2 for a 3rd light, and didn't want it to go out when I was feeding, so I made that change. I've made the change back, so it'll be fixed in the next upload.


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post #599 of 2129 (permalink) Old 11-19-2014, 04:36 PM
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The transistor gives you PWM control over the LED backlight, meaning you have programatic control from 0-255 levels of brightness. Furthermore, it allows for auto dimming the display using the ambient light sensor. If you want to give that up for a knob, go for it. I won't be making any changes though. Just ignore the "screen" settings, and don't bother installing the ambient light sensor.
No your right sorry as i said im new to this sort of thing dint really think of it like that lol also sorry to ask is there any chance you would be doing a fuzz digram of how you modded the LCD board and any other parts?? and on you pin layout of the lcd you dont say how to connect the sd card on the arduino or have i missed something sorry if i sound like im going on i dont mean to
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post #600 of 2129 (permalink) Old 11-19-2014, 05:08 PM Thread Starter
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No your right sorry as i said im new to this sort of thing dint really think of it like that lol also sorry to ask is there any chance you would be doing a fuzz digram of how you modded the LCD board and any other parts?? and on you pin layout of the lcd you dont say how to connect the sd card on the arduino or have i missed something sorry if i sound like im going on i dont mean to
No reason to apologize! Questions are good that's how we learn.

I don't know about a Fritzing diagram for those parts since they don't exist in the Fritzing database. I know you can "make" parts in the program, but I tired it once with relatively little success and it seemed like a lot of work. All of the pins I modified and jumpered are documented earlier in the thread.

Regarding the the SD card pins, they are all part of the TFT shield, so you don't have to do anything to that.


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