I am using MrAqua_v2_3_6.
I feel it is something to do with the circuit design or connections. Here are the findings i did today.

The voltage at the PWM pin at 100% is around 5.10V, and at 50% it is around 2.4V(i did only on one channel)

I made readings of the current output on LDD700 first Channel. With controller ON(PWM ON)
1) With single, only first channel ON it shows – 430mA and the 3 cool white led’s glow well (but not enough for plantation, planning for upgrade anyways)
2) With second channel ON it shows – 240mA
3) With third channel ON it shows – 150mA
4) With fourth channel ON it shows – 70mA and 30mA with all 5 channels ON.
I read LDD700H specification, it says Power ON with dimming: DIM ~ -Vin >2.5 ~ 6VDC or open circuit. does this mean if i input 5v PWM the LDD will output 580mA only?

I made the same reading with directly connecting 12v8A supply, without controller (PWM OFF)
1. it shows constant 700mA with one or all the channels ON.

Love this thread, a very big salute for mr AH, realy bringin m=y arduino skill, yes i a lately on this hobby, starting the aquarium only last year ang this arsuino just now, what an inspiring project, but still got problem with LED drivers, can anyone suggest me with a lower inexpensive driver like using mosfet not the LDD, this is quite expensive to me, what kind of mosfet or any transistor or like would be use.

hello
someone is working in humidity controller?
What type of led do you recommend for this controller?

or someone that can help me to implement humidity controller
Please

I use some bd135 to drive 12v led strips.
But if you need a constant current driver an ldd is the way to go

Ok thx
I sent him a private message

You need a logic-level N-channel mosfet like the FQP30N06L, and you need to make a constant current driver with it, the following project has some methods that will work, although with poor efficiency-

High Power LED Driver Circuits: 12 Steps (with Pictures)

Thank You, sorry for late reply

Hello!
where are the parts on this page? (resistance, diode, capacitor)
There is no direction marked on the panel!
Unfortunately I can not implant this way!
help!

Resistors doesn?t matter, if caps don?t have any polarity markings it doesn?t matter in my experience.
Diodes and IC?s have an identifier on them, there Should be a marking on the pcb.
Do you have a close up of a diode or ic? The component as well as the place on the pcb

Thanks!
Now I know

Wow cool board, very simple, could you share the pcb layout and schema, i would like to try your iaqua. 1 question, is this board still need the tft shield modification?

I haven't been able to read through all 124 pages yet, so I'm not sure if the project went through a major revision to the point of using different hardware, but I was able to pick up an Inland Mega 2560 board at my local MicroCenter for only $10 US. If anyone has been thinking about getting one, it's a pretty good deal on that microcontroller board. It's on sale until December 30 I believe.

Hi guys,
Recently while my ds18b20 temp sensor was showing temp with 0.1 degree celcius on home screen, suddenly shows with 0.5 degree.
Do you know what's happening?Bad sensor?
Edit: Solved. Fiy was a bad sensor. Changed with a new one and it is working fine.

Wow, what a great build with a ton of information. I confess to not having read every page, but definitely stoked to have found this thread as I already have a mega and TFT laying around aas well as a bunch of LDD's and 3w crees. It is the perfect start up to what I have in mind for my tank. I am hoping I didn't show up too late to the party as I have a few questions. Forgive me if this has been answered already, but;

Does the code have any cloud effects?

I am not interested in storms or worried about a east to west fading or anything too realistic just some decent random clouds would be nice.

If I understand correctly to run without IR control just pwm via meanwells all I need to do is change true to false, that's it?
"boolean lightCSP = true; // if you are controlling your lights directly with PWM, this is false"

Do I need to use the TFT shield or can I just use resistors in line with the wires to the TFT screen to step down the voltage?

Anyone with coding abilities still following this thread?
I would love some help modifying this code slightly as my ultimate goal is to use this to run an aquaponics setup I am putting together for my winter enclosed porch garden. I'm thinking I wont need help with changing the buttons or modifying the code to add some transfer pumps, humidity control, etc. I mostly need help with the lighting strategy as I would like clouds, and my channels will probably be a little different.

I am thinking I need to start taking notes and cruise through all this info again. If anyone is interested in providing some coding help it would be greatly appreciated, as I have some snippets of code, I'm just not sure how to integrate it with the existing code. Thanks.