iAqua: My Touch Interface Aquarium Controller (Arduino) - Page 118 - The Planted Tank Forum
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post #1756 of 2128 (permalink) Old 04-19-2017, 08:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fietsenrex View Post
DMM?

there is something hapening, but not much.
got to the point where there is 11,5V on the + of the dosing pump as well as on the -
pushed the test button, the + stays at 11.5, the - drops to 9-10,5V
so I think the arduino is doing its work?

EDIT:
I use a 150W 12V led power supply, maybe that is the problem.
when I connect the wires to the + and - of the powerplug that is feeding the shield the pump runs but the arduino reboots, so I think the voltage just drops out and the power supply doesn't respond fast enough to the demand
also without the pump fitted, on the + and - of the pump, there is a difference of about 10V if I hit the test button
with the pump fitted there is only 1,5V difference..
DMM = Digital Multi-meter (ie what you are probably using to measure voltage)

It sounds like it is working properly without the pump connected (the 10V drop). The arduino only resets if the pump is connected right?

Can you measure the current draw of the pump at 12V? They're generally 200-300mA which should be no problem for the ULN, if that is the case then maybe like you said the power supply is dropping out momentarily. I believe there is a 47uF capacitor on the 12V rail near the pumps, could try adding some extra capacitance in parallel to see if it helps.


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post #1757 of 2128 (permalink) Old 04-20-2017, 08:29 AM
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Think I can get my hands on some caps..
I can swap the 47uF for a 110uF to see if it helps..

But to give you an idea, I just pushed the wires of the pump on the 12v connector on the shield while it was running, almost instantly the controller turns to black and reboots.
So bigger cap should work.

Would a cap on the pump itself also help?

By the way, got the screen in a fixed position and it stays the same brightness, so I think the problem is in the headers/ribbon cable
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post #1758 of 2128 (permalink) Old 04-20-2017, 03:23 PM
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Try a different power supply.

A led power supply can have more ripple . That can give problems. Or you can measure the power with an osciloscope.
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post #1759 of 2128 (permalink) Old 04-20-2017, 06:03 PM
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Different power supply, same problem

But if the capacitor is the cuase of all this, would a 12v battery in parallel to the powersupply also solve this?
Not a permanent solution, just to test this.
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post #1760 of 2128 (permalink) Old 04-20-2017, 06:07 PM
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Why using the battery AND powersupply for testing?

Try without the powersupply, only the battery.

You can also try without D7 connected.
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post #1761 of 2128 (permalink) Old 04-20-2017, 10:18 PM
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Hello guys
I have made my own twinstar so I call it, and I want to control it through arduino, the problem I have is writing the code, more precisely with writing on / off times.
An example of the code I used is the one from the relays only that there for 1 second (1000) for 2 seconds e (2000) and so for 30 small uses (30000) or there is another way to declare these times.
The original twinstar is on 1 minute and off 6 minutes how can I write these in small code so it can be controlled. I tried with example from the relays but there you can not use more than 32768 to be converted from milliseconds in seconds or minutes.



About the light channels I did not get out, something is wrong, it does not make the transition from one ramp to another
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post #1762 of 2128 (permalink) Old 04-20-2017, 11:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fietsenrex View Post
Think I can get my hands on some caps..
I can swap the 47uF for a 110uF to see if it helps..

But to give you an idea, I just pushed the wires of the pump on the 12v connector on the shield while it was running, almost instantly the controller turns to black and reboots.
So bigger cap should work.

Would a cap on the pump itself also help?

By the way, got the screen in a fixed position and it stays the same brightness, so I think the problem is in the headers/ribbon cable
Can you use your meter to measure the current draw of the pumps? You could also try shorting the input protection diode (just make sure you don't apply power backwards), to make sure the diode isn't preventing the supply from handling the surge of current required by the pump.


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post #1763 of 2128 (permalink) Old 04-21-2017, 12:17 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rodoselada View Post
Hello guys
I have made my own twinstar so I call it, and I want to control it through arduino, the problem I have is writing the code, more precisely with writing on / off times.
An example of the code I used is the one from the relays only that there for 1 second (1000) for 2 seconds e (2000) and so for 30 small uses (30000) or there is another way to declare these times.
The original twinstar is on 1 minute and off 6 minutes how can I write these in small code so it can be controlled. I tried with example from the relays but there you can not use more than 32768 to be converted from milliseconds in seconds or minutes.



About the light channels I did not get out, something is wrong, it does not make the transition from one ramp to another
Can you post a photo of your ramp schedule screen and home screen? I know someone else had an issue when they thought the ramp length was off-time (resulting in a ramp >10 hours).


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post #1764 of 2128 (permalink) Old 04-21-2017, 08:00 AM
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In the last one changed the time left over to the first picture after i pressed home button
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post #1765 of 2128 (permalink) Old 04-21-2017, 05:17 PM
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Hi,
@MrMan
What is internal temp code for?
Is it for the temp inside arduino's enclosure?
Also I would like to change heatsink code as I don't have led and make it heater for ato on aux1.
How can I connect the aux1 icon to enable or disable according to the heater (like aquarium heater)?
Thanks.
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post #1766 of 2128 (permalink) Old 04-21-2017, 06:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rodoselada View Post
In the last one changed the time left over to the first picture after i pressed home button
What RTC are you using? Your pictures show a problem at both time since last feeding (only on last pic) and ramp, both of which use the RTC for timing.

Quote:
Originally Posted by AgMa View Post
Hi,
@MrMan
What is internal temp code for?
Is it for the temp inside arduino's enclosure?
Also I would like to change heatsink code as I don't have led and make it heater for ato on aux1.
How can I connect the aux1 icon to enable or disable according to the heater (like aquarium heater)?
Thanks.
Correct, internal temp is for inside the arduino enclosure, and controls fan2. If you wanted to use heatsink temp sensor for ATO instead you could copy the heater screen to use on heatsink settings screen, as well as updating the code in checktemp to control aux1 based on temp and then remove aux1 from the schedule screen.


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post #1767 of 2128 (permalink) Old 04-21-2017, 06:45 PM
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I use rtc 1307
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post #1768 of 2128 (permalink) Old 04-21-2017, 11:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MrMan View Post
What RTC are you using? Your pictures show a problem at both time since last feeding (only on last pic) and ramp, both of which use the RTC for timing.



Correct, internal temp is for inside the arduino enclosure, and controls fan2. If you wanted to use heatsink temp sensor for ATO instead you could copy the heater screen to use on heatsink settings screen, as well as updating the code in checktemp to control aux1 based on temp and then remove aux1 from the schedule screen.
Can I leave aux1 in the schedule screen just in case that will be needed?
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post #1769 of 2128 (permalink) Old 04-22-2017, 12:37 AM
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Quote:
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Can I leave aux1 in the schedule screen just in case that will be needed?
You can do whatever you'd like, could make it so it only turns on aux1 if between certain hours and not over temp or something. Or just leave it there not doing anything.

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post #1770 of 2128 (permalink) Old 04-25-2017, 06:43 PM
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hooked up the pumps to an adjustable power supply.
my old pumps "demand" .23A at 12v and .22A at 10V
my new (and unused) pump uses .37A at 12V and .38A at 10V

battery died on me, so I charging it as I type.
as for the protection diode, I need to solder on a jumper wire, but first the battery test since I'm the only one with these problems I do suspect the power supply.

although it was running in the old configuration with the old hardware as AH build it.

also found out that they "only" require 4V to run, so I would be very happy with just half power on the dosing pumps...

I might be dutch but I don't have a dutch scape.


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