Can ADA style stand with mitered top support the weight? - The Planted Tank Forum
 
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post #1 of 8 (permalink) Old 06-02-2014, 11:56 PM Thread Starter
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Can ADA style stand with mitered top support the weight?

I am currently building with my father-in-law an ADA style stand for a 90-P type tank. Not going to use formica because the stand and light pendant will be a matching gloss red paint. My father-in-law being the perfectionist woodworker does not want any of grain cut in the 3/4" birch ply to show so we mitered all the sides that are attached to the top. He says that the mitered cuts should withstand the weight just fine but I am not sure. Based on calculations the filled tank will be almost 500lbs when all is said and done.
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post #2 of 8 (permalink) Old 06-03-2014, 12:37 AM
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I don't know if it will support it but at a bare minimum i would use biscuits. Even better would be to line the inside of the stand with 1/2 or 3/4 ply right under the mitered top. Then it should be no problem.
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post #3 of 8 (permalink) Old 06-03-2014, 01:20 AM
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Modern woodworking glues are extremely strong. I have no doubt that a well fitted, glued miter joint top would work fine. There is really no reason to miter the top front panel to the top, if you want the ADA stand appearance. If you miter all front joints, it is really nothing like an ADA stand, it is just a box with a door. My preference when I have that situation is to use a dado joint at the top, with the lip of the sides that stick up above the top itself being about 1/16" thick. It is then just barely visible, and if that corner is relieved at all, it vanishes. I have used that joint on many cabinets because it is so easy to make it fit perfectly.

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post #4 of 8 (permalink) Old 06-04-2014, 05:46 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the tips. We ended up using triangle hardwood strips to reinforce right under the mitered top.



Will be using that all around the top.
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post #5 of 8 (permalink) Old 06-04-2014, 01:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kruzerman View Post
I don't know if it will support it but at a bare minimum i would use biscuits. Even better would be to line the inside of the stand with 1/2 or 3/4 ply right under the mitered top. Then it should be no problem.
Biscuits won't add any strength to a glue joint. It's a myth that's been tested and proven false about biscuits years ago. And yes, I do own a couple of biscuit joiners and still use them. I just don't count on it for strength.

Hoppy you are right about glues being stronger than the wood. But there is a but. If it is an end grain joint it is still a weak joint. Edge grain to edge grain or face to face the joint is stronger than the wood itself. I've done my own testing on that with different joints, glues and wood species.

Miter joints are inherently weak joints unless reinforced.

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post #6 of 8 (permalink) Old 06-04-2014, 02:30 PM
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i just finished building stand for 90P its got the face frames and inset door (no center support) and when i tried to fill the tank with water even though its got 2 pieces of 3/4 ply top weight of the water pushed the center about 1/16 down so i had to get 2 metal supports across just in case.so something to keep in mind when designing so you don't end up like me adding things later. here is mine with no doors
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post #7 of 8 (permalink) Old 06-04-2014, 05:20 PM Thread Starter
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We are putting a nice size 3/4" hardwood piece on the front to reinforce the top along with triangle strips.
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post #8 of 8 (permalink) Old 06-04-2014, 07:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gus6464 View Post
We are putting a nice size 3/4" hardwood piece on the front to reinforce the top along with triangle strips.
If you really really want to get professional a rabbet miter joint would be the proper one to use. Or a locking draw joint. It's almost the same.

That triangle piece would be called a gusset.
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