55 Gal Hex LED Reefll - The Planted Tank Forum
 
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post #1 of 14 (permalink) Old 05-27-2014, 09:46 PM Thread Starter
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55 Gal Hex LED Reefll

Hi All,
This will probably be my first post on this forum. I wanted to get some input on a LED build I'm considering before I invest in it.

Part list:
4x 12up V4.1F multiLED chip from ReefLedLab @4x19
(Haven't heard much about these products in the freshwater community but in the reef, the few builds I found love them. Led me know what you think. They use Semileds.)
5x MW LDD 1000H @5x$5
1x MW LDD 700H @5.15
4x Rosewill RCX-Z100 heatsinks @4x$10
4x ReefLedLab [email protected]$4
4x ReefLedLab Medium Optics @4x$5
ebay 48V 5A 240W AC/DC Switch Power Supply (#380908347264) @$23.5
Total: $264.5
All run with a Arduino that I'm still researching.

Going over a 55 Gal Hex at 14" per side with a depth of 24" and about 2-3 inches of substrate. Will initially be a low tech (20-30 par) but I'd like to have the option to bump the power of the LED's and go high tech with CO2 in the future.

I'm looking for feedback:
1. Build in general, IE recommendations on different components, removal of components, etc...
2. I really like the shimmer effect caused by the LED's point source lighting and I'm wondering if adding the diffuser will cut down on this shimmer, also do I really need the diffuser?
3. I also have a part list using single 3 watt LED's from SteveLED that is 40 dollars more, is it worth going to that option?
4. Any ideas on how to make it cheaper?
5. Do MW LDD run at 100% with no pwm signal? I'm considering putting this together portion together and purchasing/building the controller separately.

Thanks all!
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post #2 of 14 (permalink) Old 05-27-2014, 11:11 PM
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Just wanted to write a reply because the OP (my boyfriend) is refreshing this every 5 seconds waiting for a reply. It's funny to watch tbh lol

So please, someone give him a response before he breaks his finger clicking : ) Thanks!
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post #3 of 14 (permalink) Old 05-27-2014, 11:24 PM Thread Starter
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Well, I was excited. Thanks hun -_-
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post #4 of 14 (permalink) Old 05-28-2014, 12:54 AM
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Yes the ldd run full power when not connect.
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post #5 of 14 (permalink) Old 05-28-2014, 02:31 AM Thread Starter
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Awesome, thanks. What about my other questions?
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post #6 of 14 (permalink) Old 05-29-2014, 03:21 PM
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Using arduino is going to be the cheapest controller route, at the cost of more time to get it working how you want. If you're going to use an arduino, you'll want a real time clock, and preferably a display, otherwise it's hard to know what it's doing.

The diffusers do reduce the "shimmer" effect, but you still get some, compared to fluorescent tubes. I ran my 3w LEDs without diffusers for about a year, and then added them later, because I was afraid the LEDs were "blinding" the fish, and it was blinding me when I opened the hood! But after adding the diffusers, I haven't seen any change in the fish's behavior, so not sure it's really necessary.

Seems like you should be able to get cheaper LEDs; I bought CREE LEDs directly from LEDGroupBuy.com, but it really depends on how "plug and play" you want the system to be.
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post #7 of 14 (permalink) Old 05-29-2014, 05:19 PM
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That is going to be a really blue light with those cool whites at 10k. Sure you can up the power on neutral and lower on cool but those numbers are just off. They should have done 2 sets of neutral white and 1 set of cool white.
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post #8 of 14 (permalink) Old 05-31-2014, 10:55 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the replies!

I'm not sure about getting cheaper led's, these work out to 1.58 each. I'd probably have to go with SteveLED clearance to get close to that.

Though I have been looking into the Cree's and they look great. I was specifically looking at the xt-e cool white for 3.70 each. I'd like to use Meanwell LDD's with them but then I won’t have the option of running them at the full 1.5 amp. So I’ll have to do some more research to see if there is a cheaper option if the max is

I'm also trying to find if ledgroupbuy is the best to purchase from. So far I've found mostly good stuff about them. Did you order from them?

I think I’ll need about 25 led's. Since this is going over a hexagonal tank I could do a 5x5 square. I’m trying to work through Hoppy’s calculations now for confirmation and spacing.

I looked back over the specs of the ReefLabLed 12 up multi-chip and you're right about the 10000k spectrum. Though what worried me was the range of spectrums from a supposedly top bin led emitter. I'm not sure how I would like a 10000k light as I've never seen one.

I'll post an updated build list as soon as I'm done making it.
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post #9 of 14 (permalink) Old 05-31-2014, 11:31 PM
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I ordered my LEDs from LEDGroupBuy.com, about 3 years ago. Back then there weren't hardly any affordable ready made aquarium LED lights out there, and it was the cheapest way to get some to build your own.

I'm kind of out of the loop, so I don't know if that's the best way to go these days. I will say the LEDs with solder pads on them were a PITA to solder, using ones with wire terminals or some such is a much easier way to go.
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post #10 of 14 (permalink) Old 06-01-2014, 03:47 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gazedo3 View Post
Thanks for the replies!

I'm not sure about getting cheaper led's, these work out to 1.58 each. I'd probably have to go with SteveLED clearance to get close to that.

Though I have been looking into the Cree's and they look great. I was specifically looking at the xt-e cool white for 3.70 each. I'd like to use Meanwell LDD's with them but then I wonít have the option of running them at the full 1.5 amp. So Iíll have to do some more research to see if there is a cheaper option if the max is

I'm also trying to find if ledgroupbuy is the best to purchase from. So far I've found mostly good stuff about them. Did you order from them?

I think Iíll need about 25 led's. Since this is going over a hexagonal tank I could do a 5x5 square. Iím trying to work through Hoppyís calculations now for confirmation and spacing.

I looked back over the specs of the ReefLabLed 12 up multi-chip and you're right about the 10000k spectrum. Though what worried me was the range of spectrums from a supposedly top bin led emitter. I'm not sure how I would like a 10000k light as I've never seen one.

I'll post an updated build list as soon as I'm done making it.
1500mA LDD-L
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/...sTbFwcpjJldw==
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post #11 of 14 (permalink) Old 06-02-2014, 04:15 AM Thread Starter
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I did some more research and for a tank with my foot print (509 in^2) I would need between 11 and 23 leds so I figured a 4x4 grid would be great and I could expand it if I need.

Using Cree led's:
xte cool white x5
xte warm white x5
xte Royal Blue x5
xpe2 red x1
xpe2 green x1
60 degree lenses x16
drivers (1000 and 1500 LDD)
6 inch maker heatsink
ebay power supply
total = 143

everything is from either ledgroupbuy or rapidled or [Ebay Link Removed]

Though I redid the calc for rfll 12up chips and they would only be 111.5 without diffuser.

Both of these figures are without a controller or any of the misc stuff (solder iron, solder, wire, thermal paste, etc...) you would need to finish the project.

Anyone know any better heatsinks? I was using the maker because it's a kit and seems a decent price. Ideally I'd like something in a perfect square or circle that I could use pendant style.

Despite all this research I can't really tell why the cree would be so much better than the rfll 12up chip. Could someone with better knowledge look at the datasheet (http://reefll.com/image/data/Datashe...eet%20V1.5.pdf) for the semiled c35L that they use and evaluate it? I haven't been able to find much information in the last year about these leds other than the violets are as good as, or better than cree's.
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post #12 of 14 (permalink) Old 06-02-2014, 03:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ultimbow View Post
Yes the ldd run full power when not connect.
LDD's require 5V for full on.. Zero volts.. zero light..w/out a controller it is kind of a PIA.. Consider $50 Typhon from Steves (adruno based.. wil save you headaches)
Therre are other Adruno based controllers.. see Storm. Both are reprogrammable..
"Buckpuck" work just the opposite..


Skip green if you want greenish.. go cyan............
Red go 660nm...(deep red)
White: change ratio of cw to ww to 2:1 (optional esp. if you use a controller)
Heat sink.. consider sq al stock.. much cheaper.. See steves for the idea..

Get a good soldering iron...

Last edited by jeffkrol; 06-02-2014 at 04:05 PM. Reason: corrections
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post #13 of 14 (permalink) Old 06-02-2014, 04:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeffkrol View Post
LDD's require 5V for full on.. Zero volts.. zero light..
"Buckpuck" work just the opposite..
LDD drivers float high when there is no PWM input. If they are put onto a PCB with a pulldown 10K resistor, that is a different story, but the LDD themselves will work with or without input.


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Ė a 40g reef
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post #14 of 14 (permalink) Old 06-02-2014, 04:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jedimasterben View Post
LDD drivers float high when there is no PWM input. If they are put onto a PCB with a pulldown 10K resistor, that is a different story, but the LDD themselves will work with or without input.
Thanks.. some reason that was confusing.. I knew I had an issue using Corallux boards but now I remember thinking of just cutting out the pull down..
Dang.. off my feed today........

I actually pulled my orig. answer then rethought.. incorrectly..

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