Help with water flow for 3 10 gallon - The Planted Tank Forum
 
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post #1 of 12 (permalink) Old 05-06-2014, 07:01 PM Thread Starter
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Help with water flow for 3 10 gallon

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So I set up a 3 10 gallon system made of PVC. I am having problems with my spray bar I had to put ball valves on the intake bar and spray bar to control the intake and prevent of flow to one tank.

My first tank has 4 holes second tank has 6 holes and third tank has 8 holes I figure if it's a longer distance water flow would be less but this is my first diy multiple tank to one filter set up

If any could help me show me a set by step link or video
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post #2 of 12 (permalink) Old 05-06-2014, 07:50 PM
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Hi Boss. Can you diagram your set up? Are the tanks tiered or side by side? Where is the pump and or sump & valves? What diameter is your PVC piping? Also elbows & tees affect flow and resistance.

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post #3 of 12 (permalink) Old 05-06-2014, 08:40 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by BeastMaster View Post
Hi Boss. Can you diagram your set up? Are the tanks tiered or side by side? Where is the pump and or sump & valves? What diameter is your PVC piping? Also elbows & tees affect flow and resistance.
Thanks for a such a quick reply beast. So I have 3 10 gallons side by side not long ways. Short ways side by side. The central canister is a 350 marineland and it's on bottom rack. On output I have 2 PVC ball valves and on intake same. On output there is one after the first spray holes and before last spray holes. Intake one before the second intake line and one after the second intake line I am gonna upload the photo in a few. Diameter is 1/2" PVC
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post #4 of 12 (permalink) Old 05-06-2014, 08:43 PM Thread Starter
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Here's the set up

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post #5 of 12 (permalink) Old 05-06-2014, 08:57 PM Thread Starter
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I am the hole sequence should I redo output into one solid bar and put even amounts of hole over each tank?
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post #6 of 12 (permalink) Old 05-07-2014, 03:19 AM
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That could work. Space the drill holes so they accomidate the decreasing water pressure along the outflow pipe. The placement of the valves on the intake side are kind of puzzling. If they are there to isolate an individual tank, I would place the valves below the tees for each tank. The intake side must be difficult to prime? Did you install an air bleed valve for this line? Most rack systems I've seen use a lower tiered sump and adjustable standpipes. The return flow is manifolded back to each tank with it's own valve.

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post #7 of 12 (permalink) Old 05-07-2014, 04:15 AM Thread Starter
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I didn't wanna build a sump so I just used my canister lol
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post #8 of 12 (permalink) Old 05-07-2014, 09:15 AM Thread Starter
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That could work. Space the drill holes so they accomidate the decreasing water pressure along the outflow pipe. The placement of the valves on the intake side are kind of puzzling. If they are there to isolate an individual tank, I would place the valves below the tees for each tank. The intake side must be difficult to prime? Did you install an air bleed valve for this line? Most rack systems I've seen use a lower tiered sump and adjustable standpipes. The return flow is manifolded back to each tank with it's own valve.
Beast I installed the ball valves on the intake end right below the tee. Still same problem now it's the end tank that fills. Smh. Idk man I turned off my canister cause I am running sponge filter xl and undergravel. So I might turn on during the afternoon when I'm home and shut off evenings at bedtime I don't wanna wake to an empty 10 gallon hahaha. I may just have to redo the output spray bar with ball valves on each one.
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post #9 of 12 (permalink) Old 05-07-2014, 12:48 PM
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Without some self leveling.. i.e siphon between each tank or even drilled holes connecting each.. I don't how that ever works.. Only take a bit of clogging in one pipe or another to disturb your proportioning... causing one to overflow...
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post #10 of 12 (permalink) Old 05-07-2014, 02:06 PM
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On a sidenote, you may want to put braces under your smaller chunks of 2x4. The vertical load is currently only supported by whatever screws you used. It may only be a couple hundred pounds with 3 10's, but if you ever put a larger tank on there - the extra support will keep you from cleaning up alot of water.
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post #11 of 12 (permalink) Old 05-08-2014, 02:41 AM Thread Starter
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On a sidenote, you may want to put braces under your smaller chunks of 2x4. The vertical load is currently only supported by whatever screws you used. It may only be a couple hundred pounds with 3 10's, but if you ever put a larger tank on there - the extra support will keep you from cleaning up alot of water.
There are l brackets one each 2x4 on the back of small 2x4 piece
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post #12 of 12 (permalink) Old 05-08-2014, 01:37 PM
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Its your floor boss. If that 2x piece went all the way to the bottom, then the vertical load would be supported. As it is now, you are at the mercy of sheer forces. It was just a recommendation though, no worries.
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