Please review my stand design - The Planted Tank Forum
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post #1 of 47 (permalink) Old 03-24-2008, 05:44 AM Thread Starter
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Please review my stand design

Hi all,

I've asked this before and since then have revised my plan according to the recommendations. I'm definately buidling my stand this weekend, here's the plan, sorry it's not done in fancy CAD drawing, just powerpoint. Please review and let me know if the design is good.
















I plan to use redwood, that's what my local Lowe is selling.

Thanks.


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post #2 of 47 (permalink) Old 03-24-2008, 05:52 AM
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A couple of questions:

Are the cross supports for looks or actual support reasons?

Is this just the frame design, or are you going to skin the stand with finished wood/trim?

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post #3 of 47 (permalink) Old 03-24-2008, 06:20 AM Thread Starter
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This is just the frame design, the cross are there to support lateral loads. I will also skin the back and side with 1/2" or 3/4" plywood, the front will be similar but with opening cut so I can access my filter.


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post #4 of 47 (permalink) Old 03-24-2008, 06:35 AM
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If youre going to move it more than twice in ten years, I would suggest making the lateral stress braces smaller, youre looking at alot of weight...

Being a person who has overbuilt two stands, and recently built two more large tank stanks 55gal+.. Its certainly over built. My first stand was for a 90.. and I did alot of bracing. If youre skinning the stand.. It might sound silly but that 1/4" sheeting gives you plenty of lateral and twisting resistance. However.. I still found it fun to over build

Looks great.. Can I ask why you will skin the back? It will end up being a hinderance I think.

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post #5 of 47 (permalink) Old 03-24-2008, 06:40 AM
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I don't want to critisize your design as I am not sure what the integrity of the cross supports will provide as far as the strength goes.

The reason why I asked if you were going to skin the stand was because then the frame will be pretty much invisible which opens up other possibilities as far as the design. Currently there is another thread that is worth a read (if you haven't read it already). It has a lot of useful information and some links to some basic designs that are consistent with what you are trying to accomplish:

https://www.plantedtank.net/forums/di...uble-tank.html

I actually went with the design principals of the frame and started a build journal that has some pictures of the frame design in actual form:

https://www.plantedtank.net/forums/di...opy-build.html


The frame is rock solid, and I can easily see making some minor modifications with length and width to accomodate the tank that you are going with.

The stand I built could probably support your tank without any issues. The only problem is that it wouldn't be long enough or wide enough for your tank.

One of the advantages to the design is the ease of assembly. The only difference in the design vs. what I would actually incorporate into the stand for a tank of your size would be center supports using 2 x 6s (front and back), and I might use 2 x 6s for the outside corner parts of the legs. Based on the information that I have read about the frame design, my modifications wouldn't be necessary. They would just be my personal prefrence.

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post #6 of 47 (permalink) Old 03-24-2008, 06:56 AM Thread Starter
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BiscuitSlayer:
I just saw that thread after I posted. After glacing through it I see that the design is similar to the one I have. I design this stand for ease of assembly also, nothing but straight cut. So you recommend to use 2x6 instead of 2x4 for the center (front to back) support? Also I noticed that the design you mentioned, for the vertical 2x4 at each corner, it didn't go all the way from top to bottom, any reason why? I would of think it's better to have those beam go from top to bottom for addition support.

As far as the X bracing goes, I don't know how much strength it can handle either, but I thought it's would be good to have, better safe than sorry I guess.

cookingnerd607:
The reason I skin the back also is for added integrity and also for sound proofing. All my plumbing are done via bulkheads drill on the bottom of the tank. I only need 2 hole in the back to support automatic water change.

As for moving, I do plan to move, in 2 years. I don't mind the weight though, I got my own truck and lots of friends .


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post #7 of 47 (permalink) Old 03-24-2008, 07:13 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by khoile View Post
BiscuitSlayer:
I just saw that thread after I posted. After glacing through it I see that the design is similar to the one I have. I design this stand for ease of assembly also, nothing but straight cut. So you recommend to use 2x6 instead of 2x4 for the center (front to back) support? Also I noticed that the design you mentioned, for the vertical 2x4 at each corner, it didn't go all the way from top to bottom, any reason why? I would of think it's better to have those beam go from top to bottom for addition support.

As far as the X bracing goes, I don't know how much strength it can handle either, but I thought it's would be good to have, better safe than sorry I guess.

khoile -

The piece you are referring to is what I have been calling a floater, but originally it was called a screw strip by the person who came up with the design. It effectively connects the upper and lower frame together with screws, but the outer parts of the legs are what bear the full load of the tank. I can't really tell you why it doesn't go all the way to the top of the upper frame or the bottom of the lower frame, but ultimately it wouldn't matter other than ease of assembly. I left a 1/2 gap at the top and the bottom, and that took all guess work out of having the thing sit EXACTLY streight and level.

I tend to overdo things sometimes. I was suggesting that you use 2 x 6s for the outer sections of the legs rather than 2 x 4s. To be honest, this is probably way overkill. 2 x 4s should be more than enough to get the job done. I did suggest using another set of 2 x 6s in the middle between the upper and lower frames though for the center support of the stand. I WOULD do this to a 6 foot stand.

The original designer of the stand stated that tanks up to 48" should be OK with 2 x 4s for the upper frame, and tanks up to 76" should be OK with upper frames constructed of 2 x 6s. Tanks longer than 76" should be ok with upper frames construced of 2 x 8s or 2 x 10s (can't remember). All of these designs were supposed to be able to support the loads without any center brace supports between the upper and lower frames.

I would put the center supports in though just to be on the safe side.

I don't want to talk you out of the redwood other than I don't think it is necessary. This frame design was conceived with pine in mind. I don't know what your pine availability is, but I am sure that it would be much cheaper then redwood.

Personally, I would kind of stick with 2 x 6s only because they tend to be streighter than standard 2 x 4s. I believe that the 2 x 6s are actually what pulled my stand together and made things streight and level (in conjunction with the basic design prinipal that I mentioned).

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post #8 of 47 (permalink) Old 03-25-2008, 04:41 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the advice BiscuitSlayer. I think I'll redesign the stand to better reflect your design, while still maintain the middle support legs. I see the value in the floater, I'm not sure if I'll use that though, still undecided on that aspect. RocketEngineer (the original designer) stated that 2x6 is good up to 72", and 2x8 or 2x10 for longer tank. However I may even consider using 2x8 since the cost difference won't be too much. As for redwood, I decided to use that base on an advice from one of Lowe employee, I can handle the price difference, so if redwood is better I'll use that.

Thanks again, if anyone else have any other comments please let me know, I'm building the stand this weekend.


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post #9 of 47 (permalink) Old 03-25-2008, 06:24 PM Thread Starter
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Ok, I've decided to use the "float" design. I will also use glue to keep the pieces together. Any recommendation on type of glue? I am looking at gorilla wood glue.

Here's the link:
http://www.gorillaglue.com/glues/woodglue/index.aspx


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post #10 of 47 (permalink) Old 03-25-2008, 06:27 PM
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There is a wood glue made by Elmers that is sandable. It is what I am using on my stand.

As far as the redwood goes, I don't think its necessary but if your heart is set on it, go for it.

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post #11 of 47 (permalink) Old 03-25-2008, 06:33 PM
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I would recommend Titebond III wood glue.
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post #12 of 47 (permalink) Old 03-25-2008, 06:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by khoile View Post
Any recommendation on type of glue? I am looking at gorilla wood glue.
Polyurethane glue. Messy, gawd-awful stuff. Scored the lowest in a recent Fine Woodworking magazine glue strength test. Skip the marketing hype and just say no.

I second the recommendation for TB III. Waterproof, easy cleanup, cheaper, works in low temperature.
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post #13 of 47 (permalink) Old 03-25-2008, 07:07 PM Thread Starter
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BiscuitSlayer, I'll check the price of redwood again, if it's too much, it's not worth it then.

Ok so here's what I got:

- design, checked (kinda)
- glue, checked (TB III)
- clamps...??? 90 degree, etc... what do I need?

I'm going have to buy all the clamping tools, as this is my first real project. I have the saw/etc.. borrowed already.


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post #14 of 47 (permalink) Old 03-25-2008, 07:11 PM
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To build the frame, you shouldn't need any clamps unless you feel more comfortable with them. I am not going to use any clams until I skin/trim the stand. Then I'll need the clamps to hold the trim, etc while the glue sets.

I didn't use any glue on the frame.

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post #15 of 47 (permalink) Old 03-25-2008, 07:55 PM
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Gorrilla (spell) Glue is amazingly strong and uses moister to make the bond.
Your design is a real over kill but good design for holding up a building LOL
I think you should design from the inside out. Set up all your equipment like you would like to have it inside your cabnet. I'd build different cabnet sections with vertical walls and shelves. A cutout opening for any Co2 bottles that you might use. You might be able to build it out of MDF sheeting. Maybe double wall thickness on the verticals. Real easy to work with and much cheaper. Then if you want to stain it you could wrap it with what every sheeting you like, like 1/4 Oak or Cherry etc. If you are going to paint it, then don't wrap it. Just my 2 cents

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