Water in CO2 tubing (help) - The Planted Tank Forum
 
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post #1 of 9 (permalink) Old 01-29-2008, 05:28 PM Thread Starter
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Water in CO2 tubing (help)

I have a hagen ladder set up. To combat some hair algae i added a 2L bottle. It worked great. I went to set it up again for a new batch after 2 weeks, and threw everything together last night. It is sitting on a dresser about a foot above the tank (as it was when I first did it). However, I noticed water is going up the tubing. There was no water in the tubing last night. Is there suction from the production of the CO2? I didn't have time before work this morning to try and get the water out.

Thanks.

Efish

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5.5G - Dwarf Hairgrass playland for Beta and 2 ottos.
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post #2 of 9 (permalink) Old 01-29-2008, 06:12 PM
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Don't worry about it. If you securely tighten the lid on your 2L bottle, the CO2 being produced will push the water back into the tank. It happens to me all the time. As long as the water flow isn't continuous into the 2L bottle, you're ok. If the water is in the tube but not moving, that's fine. You just don't want it to go into your 2L bottle. A check valve would help in ensuring this doesn't happen.
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post #3 of 9 (permalink) Old 01-29-2008, 08:29 PM Thread Starter
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so it's not a big deal that over night, not enough co2 was produced to clear the tubing? i've got the cap covered in tape where the tube enters, so a leak isn't likely, but of course it's possible.

90G - CA community tank (Jack Dempsey, Fire Mouth, Blood Parrot). 8 Tiger Barbs, 3 Clown Loaches, 3 bristlenose Pleco's.
20G (tall) - Planted. 4 neons, 8 rummy nose tetras, 3 ottos.
5.5G - Dwarf Hairgrass playland for Beta and 2 ottos.
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post #4 of 9 (permalink) Old 01-29-2008, 08:43 PM
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Since it's DIY, it could be a lot of reasons. The yeast you're using may be dead, there could be a leak somewhere that you're not aware of. I'd let it go one more day and if the CO2 doesn't clear the tube, i'd mix up a new batch and try again. It's DIY, so it's not a fine art. That's why many choose the pressurized route. Although my DIY on my 10 gal is pretty consistent.
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post #5 of 9 (permalink) Old 01-29-2008, 09:16 PM
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If you had just made the mixture and the water is warm, then this is normal as the contractions will pull in some water.
If you had previous bubbling and the bubbling stopped and water is going in, then your mixture is dead.

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post #6 of 9 (permalink) Old 01-31-2008, 04:00 AM
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If you have water in the tubing the simplest thing to do is shake the bottle, his will discharge the dissolved co2 in the water, increasing pressure and the co2 will push out the water. This is what I generally do.
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post #7 of 9 (permalink) Old 01-31-2008, 02:45 PM Thread Starter
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thanks. I gave that a shot last night and it worked.

I noticed this morning that i wasn't getting many bubbles though. maybe 1 every 3 seconds. I dropped in some extra yeast. Probably not the best idea, but short of "peaking" my CO2 early, could there be any other bad side affects?

90G - CA community tank (Jack Dempsey, Fire Mouth, Blood Parrot). 8 Tiger Barbs, 3 Clown Loaches, 3 bristlenose Pleco's.
20G (tall) - Planted. 4 neons, 8 rummy nose tetras, 3 ottos.
5.5G - Dwarf Hairgrass playland for Beta and 2 ottos.
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post #8 of 9 (permalink) Old 01-31-2008, 03:47 PM
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I hate to say it, but when you opened it, you released all the built up pressure.
Adding the extra yeast might start more CO2 production sooner, but at the rate the little buggers reproduce, like you said, you just made your CO2 peak early.

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post #9 of 9 (permalink) Old 02-01-2008, 04:19 PM
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You could've squeezed the bottle a bit when you screwed the top on. Thats why I use a big juice bottle. Its more rigid, and will hold more water, so the yeast will stay alive longer (alcohol % will build up slower).
The yeast could simply be dead, as has been said before. Try to dechlorinate the water you plan to use for co2, or at least let it sit overnight and see what happens. I usually start getting bubbles 10-15 minutes after I connect the bottle. Good Luck
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