hydor heater --> PVC ....how? (Attn PVC gurus!) - The Planted Tank Forum
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post #1 of 20 (permalink) Old 01-06-2008, 10:55 PM Thread Starter
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hydor heater --> PVC ....how? (Attn PVC gurus!)

Hello - I'm in the process of changing my filtration in my 90g from hose-only to mostly PVC. I like the idea of the cleaner, more hi-tech look, but I also believe I can save some space down there.

My biggest problem so far is attempting to plumb my 300w hydor inline heater directly to PVC. I discovered that the threads are 1/2", but you can't fit a 1/2 NPT fitting onto it, because the nipple is fatter than the actual threads. If you try to put a 3/4" fitting on, to get it over the threads, you won't be able to screw it into the 1/2" threaded shaft. I just got back from the hardware store, where I spent a good 45 min messing with different pieces, but nothing seemed to work.....yes, I asked for help, but the guy didn't know...said it was a weird-sized attachment.

Here's a look at the heater and the nipple itself:


Here was my original idea, but I'd like to reserve these brass fittings for the direct connections to the filters. I want the heater and UV to be plumbed without using filter hoses:


A picture of the whole thing:


I did manage to find the fittings for the Turbo Twist UV, as they just required a 3/4" bushing and reducer to 1/2" slip. Piece of cake, b/c it didn't have that long nipple on it:


Here's my assorted pile of PVC stuff. I'm going to start putting it together and see what I come up with, but want to figure out the heater issue first.



Any ideas from the PVC gurus?
Thanks!

-Ryan

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post #2 of 20 (permalink) Old 01-06-2008, 11:08 PM
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Haha, I like playing with PVC parts too.

Have you considered cutting off the barb thing, just leaving the threads on the heater? Or if cutting off is too drastic, maybe file it down until the part fits over it?


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post #3 of 20 (permalink) Old 01-06-2008, 11:38 PM Thread Starter
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Nah, I want to try to accomplish this without making any permanent modifications.

I also should have asked....What is the method of "introducing" this new system to an existing setup? I don't want any toxins from the PVC, cement or primer to hurt or kill any fish or shrimp.

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post #4 of 20 (permalink) Old 01-06-2008, 11:54 PM
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Without permanent modifications, I think your way would be the best with the tubing "coupler".

And as long as the primer cures, I'd just rinse it off with water to make sure any debris is rinsed off and it's ready to go.
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post #5 of 20 (permalink) Old 01-06-2008, 11:58 PM
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Yeah, just let it dry really well, until all the smell is gone.


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post #6 of 20 (permalink) Old 01-07-2008, 12:00 AM Thread Starter
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Tubing coupler? Is that the brass piece that I already have?
I'm such a novice at PVC it's not even funny...well, I made a couple Co2 reactors and fixed a small section of broken sprinkler line, but that's it.

I also saw "unions" at the store. I tried 1/2", 3/4" and 1" and none of them worked, as there wasn't anything inside to hold onto the plastic nipple tightly enough. I wonder if hydor makes the piece I'm looking for...

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post #7 of 20 (permalink) Old 01-07-2008, 12:06 AM
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By tubing coupler, I mean using the green piece of tubing to slide over the barb/nipple attachment on the heater, and then having the brass piece inserted into the other end of the tubing.


Maybe you can try something like this? I'm not sure, never used one before:


The same type as the one used in here:
https://www.plantedtank.net/forums/di...-ph-probe.html
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post #8 of 20 (permalink) Old 01-07-2008, 01:24 AM Thread Starter
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I have a piece of that in my collection of parts, but it requires a small segment of hose, as it doesn't directly screw into the heater, but attaches hose to PVC.

I saw a recent thread of someone's tank who had the exact same heater and hooked it up without hose. I'll try to find that thead.

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post #9 of 20 (permalink) Old 01-07-2008, 01:25 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by epicfish View Post
By tubing coupler, I mean using the green piece of tubing to slide over the barb/nipple attachment on the heater, and then having the brass piece inserted into the other end of the tubing.


Maybe you can try something like this? I'm not sure, never used one before:


The same type as the one used in here:
https://www.plantedtank.net/forums/di...-ph-probe.html
Where did you find this?
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post #10 of 20 (permalink) Old 01-07-2008, 02:46 AM
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You may want to talk to Diablocanine. This is one of his pictures.



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post #11 of 20 (permalink) Old 01-07-2008, 02:52 AM
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Don't use brass. If you end up needing to use soft vinyl hose you can get plastic hose barbs made of grey sched 80 plastic instead of the brass barb in your photo. I'm sure brass is fine, but why chance it. In my area Lowes has a good selection of these, while Home Depot is rather poor.

I don't think there's anything wrong with using soft vinyl hose btw. We're not dealing with 50 psi household pressure here. Hose clamps wouldn't hurt and might help you sleep better at night.
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post #12 of 20 (permalink) Old 01-07-2008, 03:22 AM Thread Starter
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I already have brass for that nipple part, as the same wasn't available in plastic. Believe me, I checked.
Btw, it may just be my area, but both Home Depots near me are *terrible* as far as selection of PVC parts. Lowe's has much more to choose from and seems to have better organization IMO. I also get asked if I need help in Lowe's nearly every time I'm in there. Home Depot, almost never. If I need help, I have to go track someone down, etc.

I have a bunch of hose clamps and I also realize that soft vinyl hose wouldn't hurt. I am, in fact, using vinyl hose to connect to the filter in/out as well as the spray bar/intake. I would just like to try doing this with all PVC except those few sections.
After all, this is the DIY thread isn't it?

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post #13 of 20 (permalink) Old 01-07-2008, 03:32 AM
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You can either search for a bushing that does not have a shoulder or cut off the end of the bushing removing the shoulder so the barb will pass through. They do make bushings that fit over the barb. I have done both but prefer the shoulderless bushing. I recommend using unions on both ends so you can line the heater up later on.



You can use brass fittings, I have brass fittings all over my tanks and they are fine.....DC
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post #14 of 20 (permalink) Old 01-07-2008, 03:33 AM
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If you have Ace Hardware stores around, you might want to check them out as well. I have found items that I was looking for that I couldn't find at Lowes or Home Depot. The other thing I like about Ace is presenting them with a challange and getting them to offer up suggestions. The guys in my store are pretty quick on their feet and they seem to like a challenge. My last project (DYI PVC reactor) involved using a pipe tap to do what I wanted to accomplish. I never would have thought about it if it hadn't been for the AH guys.

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post #15 of 20 (permalink) Old 01-07-2008, 08:27 AM Thread Starter
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DC - I did not see any shoulderless bushings, although I haven't tried Ace hardware yet. Are the unions you're using in the picture 1/2"or 3/4"? What is that black piece between the union and the heater? Just some kind of clamp?

BiscuitS.. - Thanks for the suggestion of trying Ace. I will definitely check it out. There's one not too far away. The guy in the PVC area helped me out a while back when I was making a Co2 reactor. I showed him a picture and he pretty much grabbed all the pieces I needed right away.

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