DIY PVC Co2 reactor questions - The Planted Tank Forum
 
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post #1 of 7 (permalink) Old 02-15-2014, 03:03 AM Thread Starter
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DIY PVC Co2 reactor questions

Hey guys,

Im in the process of piecing together everything im going to need for my high tech 110 gallon im going to be starting here pretty soon. Ive been considering ways to inject Co2 into this tank and i think ive decided on a DIY PVC reactor. I found this python tube that i think might work perfect. Its 3" diameter and 16" long, and clear, which i like. but i have a couple questions.


1. What is the python made out of? Will hardware store PVC fittings adhere to it with PVC glue?

2. if i just drop the Bio Balls into it, i can fit about 13, if i press the needles of the bios balls into each other and have them all going the same way, i can fit at least 20 bio balls. Is it better to have them loose or cram them together?

3. Is it better to have the reactor on the intake or return line of the canister? seems to me the only way to get the bubbles to want to go against the flow of water would be to have it on the intake side.

4. Should i make it rebuildable and cleanable, or make it as a sealed unit and glue it all together?




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post #2 of 7 (permalink) Old 02-15-2014, 03:20 AM
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Ditch the bioballs and leave the reactor empty. Put the reactor on the outlet of your filter, clean water going through it makes it a cleaner reactor. Water in the top, exiting the bottom.
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post #3 of 7 (permalink) Old 02-15-2014, 03:31 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by creekbottom View Post
Ditch the bioballs and leave the reactor empty. Put the reactor on the outlet of your filter, clean water going through it makes it a cleaner reactor. Water in the top, exiting the bottom.
what... why?
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post #4 of 7 (permalink) Old 02-15-2014, 03:45 AM
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Too many bioballs reduces flow too much but it really depends on the output of the filter. It's better to have a separate powerhead to pump into the reactor instead.
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post #5 of 7 (permalink) Old 02-15-2014, 03:50 AM
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Yup, you don't need anything in there. The bubbles working against the flowing water is enough.
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post #6 of 7 (permalink) Old 02-15-2014, 03:56 AM Thread Starter
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the canister filter im going to be using is 700gph on a 110 gallon
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post #7 of 7 (permalink) Old 02-15-2014, 03:48 PM
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I also would ditch the bio=balls as a trouble source. Not needed and my big question is due to maintenance. All of my tubing has to be cleaned at times. If I had bio-balls sealed in the reactor, it leaves me to cut it open to clean them and I find no purpose for them if the reactor is sized to meet the filter flow. I use the reactor on the output, let the flow go in at the top., add CO2 near the top and it dissolves before it can get out the bottom.
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