would this work reactor heater - The Planted Tank Forum
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post #1 of 20 (permalink) Old 11-11-2007, 02:31 PM Thread Starter
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would this work reactor heater

would this work?
and how much would it effect flow?
the plan is to use my eden 501 which has 10mm tubing split it and run each end into a chamber, in one chamber "bio-balls" to act as a co2 diffuser and in the second one a 100watt heater which would act as an external heater effectively removing all but the inlet/outlets out of the tank.
I prepose to use 2inch tubing how much would this effect the flow and would re joining the 2 chambers at the top with the same 10mm tubing rectify any flow issues and mean I wouldn't lose any flow?

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post #2 of 20 (permalink) Old 11-11-2007, 07:14 PM
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Hmmm...It's been a while since fluid dynamics...better check up on that hahah

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post #3 of 20 (permalink) Old 11-11-2007, 07:40 PM
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Your water is flowing in the wrong direction. As you have it drawn, your CO2 will rapidly rise through the bioballs and head straight out into your tank before it has a chance to dissolve. You want the water to flow counter to the rising bubbles. Also, Rex Grigg's CO2 reactor design doesn't bother with any bioballs. If you built one like his you could possibly do away with the second chamber. You'd have to figure out a way to make sure that the heater was always submerged and not trapped in a CO2 bubble, though. Hmm...
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post #4 of 20 (permalink) Old 11-11-2007, 08:45 PM
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If you use an ordinary glass heater, then water should flow from the top to bottom. Same with your CO2 reactor. Top to bottom.

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post #5 of 20 (permalink) Old 11-11-2007, 09:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tropicalfish View Post
If you use an ordinary glass heater, then water should flow from the top to bottom. Same with your CO2 reactor. Top to bottom.
That's true when the two are separate, but when there's a chance that there could be air (CO2) in the line, you generally want the water flowing the other direction for security reasons, against gravity. At least, that's what they taught me in organic chemistry laboratory when we were hooking up our condenser to the tap/drain.

So I'm not sure which would be better for this idea, and it would depend on whether the heater and CO2 unit were merged.
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post #6 of 20 (permalink) Old 11-11-2007, 09:47 PM
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True, but the heater's thermostat is at the top, not the bottom. Having water flowing from bottom to top will end up with improper heating.

Why not combine them, and have a vortex spinning from top to bottom.

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post #7 of 20 (permalink) Old 11-11-2007, 10:02 PM
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I assume this is for a nano, but either way--I doubt that the 501 is going to have enough power for this. 300L/h=~79gph and its a safe assumption that that is without any media. Then add your devices---I doubt it will work very well over the long haul.....

Those 501's just don't seem to have much "umph" at all from what I understand.....


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post #8 of 20 (permalink) Old 11-11-2007, 10:25 PM
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This probably isn't the most feasible idea, but I was thinking that a design like this might work:



I figure by using the 2 U tubes, the CO2 would have to overcome quite a bit of water to get into the heating unit. Of course, I would say that this is not foolproof since if you, say, shake the reactor, gas could get into the heater portion. Also, it wouldn't look as nice as one straight tube.

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post #9 of 20 (permalink) Old 11-11-2007, 10:40 PM
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on closer inspection, I'm not sure they make PVC in the shape of a U. You might need to join like, 4 elbows together or something.

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post #10 of 20 (permalink) Old 11-11-2007, 11:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fishscale View Post
on closer inspection, I'm not sure they make PVC in the shape of a U. You might need to join like, 4 elbows together or something.
Nonetheless, I think I like that design a lot. I'd stretch the section where the two U pieces join though, to make the whole thing more compact.

Edit: 'course they make PVC in the shape of a U. It's called a trap.

Last edited by swylie; 11-12-2007 at 01:53 AM.
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post #11 of 20 (permalink) Old 11-12-2007, 01:29 AM
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I'd like to hear Rex Grigg give his opinion on this.

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post #12 of 20 (permalink) Old 11-12-2007, 04:18 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by garuf View Post
would this work?
and how much would it effect flow?
the plan is to use my eden 501 which has 10mm tubing split it and run each end into a chamber, in one chamber "bio-balls" to act as a co2 diffuser and in the second one a 100watt heater which would act as an external heater effectively removing all but the inlet/outlets out of the tank.
I prepose to use 2inch tubing how much would this effect the flow and would re joining the 2 chambers at the top with the same 10mm tubing rectify any flow issues and mean I wouldn't lose any flow?

I use several reactor/heater manifolds something like your drawing, they work fine. 5-7 bio balls max, use 1.5 inch pvc and 1 inch bio balls so they can agitate in the reactor. Several members here use my reactors, not much more work to connect a Hydor inline.....DC
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post #13 of 20 (permalink) Old 11-12-2007, 07:07 AM
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For me, the issue is cost. What's the cheapest price on a hydor? I'm planning to run it on a 55, so how many watts would I need?

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post #14 of 20 (permalink) Old 11-12-2007, 07:54 AM
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For me, the issue is cost. What's the cheapest price on a hydor? I'm planning to run it on a 55, so how many watts would I need?
Here is a chart:

http://www.hydor.it/inglese/s_eth.htm

Here are some links to decent prices:

http://cgi.ebay.com/Hydor-In-Line-He...QQcmdZViewItem

http://www.bigalsonline.com/BigAlsUS...lineheater300w

What kind of filter will you be connecting it to? The 300 watt has 5/8" barbs....DC
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post #15 of 20 (permalink) Old 11-12-2007, 11:36 AM
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A 501 would most likely give up the ghost trying to push water through that design. They move at most around 30-40 gph with media in them. Not even sufficient water movement and filtration for a 10 gallon IMHO.
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