Working on a diy modular filtration system - The Planted Tank Forum
 
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post #1 of 7 (permalink) Old 09-30-2007, 01:02 AM Thread Starter
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Working on a diy modular filtration system

Hey folks I'm working on a new modular filtration system for my 70 gallon.
I'm going to build it out 3 inch pvc for the co2 reactor,heater module and 4 inch for the filter.
It has a back flush system designed into it for water changes which will also help to clean the filter as it drains the tank.
It will be mostly hard plumbed and powered by a magdrive 500 pump.
whacha guys think?
Did I miss anything
Cheers
Erik

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post #2 of 7 (permalink) Old 09-30-2007, 02:27 PM Thread Starter
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Um Guys..
No comments?
nothing?
:?

15 tall
with pressurized c02 jebo 828 , 9w turbotwist uv. up-aqua co2 atomizer16/22
& small yoyo and striata loaches and praecox rainbows.
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post #3 of 7 (permalink) Old 09-30-2007, 07:43 PM
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Cool idea. It looks like you have everything covered. Rainbow Lifeguard makes similar inline system.


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post #4 of 7 (permalink) Old 09-30-2007, 08:35 PM
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MagDrive 500 might be a little small, but it really depends what you pack in the filter. If you stay away from finer filter media that clog fast it'd probably be ok.

One other thing to think about, is how maintenance will be performed. Backflush is good start, although I never found them to work well with sponge media. At the least I'd add a ball valve on the input side before the filter cannister, so you can isolate it and remove it easier. A corresponding one on the output hose is also handy, with both you can isolate the entire filter system at once.

Not quite sure I understand all four valves for the bypass, unless you are trying to avoid having water pass through the pump.

And finally, I believe for CO2 reactors the recommended placement of the input is 1/3rd of the way down from the top. Although personally I always thought putting it on the bottom would be best, but what do I know.
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post #5 of 7 (permalink) Old 09-30-2007, 10:04 PM
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I would say that You will need a cut-off (ballvalve) in between the Tee and the strainer intake--otherwise You will probably be at least partially back flushing into the tank.

You should be able to combine the heater module and the C02 reactor into one unit.


Otherwise it looks ok to me....

HTH


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post #6 of 7 (permalink) Old 10-01-2007, 04:16 AM
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I would add the draining valve at a "T" just before the feed to the heater, and have a safety tip on a pick-up spout located at the bottom of the tank.
So when you go to change the flow direction, you are drawing the water out of the bottom of the tank with out interupting the spray bar assembly. Or have a quick connect for a syphone hose to be connected at the same "T" location for cleaning. Just pull the filter element out of the chamber and let it flow down the drain. Looks great other wise. Oh, and yes, the Rainbow system is everything you could want in a system, only around $500 with everything to set it up. That is my next system for the tanks.
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post #7 of 7 (permalink) Old 10-05-2007, 08:58 PM Thread Starter
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Hey thanks for the tips guys.
I am started to build the modules now.
It looks like the biggest cost is shut of valves.
Based on this system how well do think back flush will clean filter?
I may forego if it is not worth it.
I found some really nice 1/2 and 3/4 pvc elbows that have thin wall compared to the non pvc thick walled ones.
I have an idea for mounting all this and minimizing spills...
I going to use a cheap kitty litter tray mounted on a ply wood 2 side box \|/.
All the modules will be attached to the 2 sides hanging in/over the tray.
Then I will mounted to drawer sliders inside my cabinet so I can just slide it out for servicing. Some fridges have compresspors like that now.
Cheers
Botia

15 tall
with pressurized c02 jebo 828 , 9w turbotwist uv. up-aqua co2 atomizer16/22
& small yoyo and striata loaches and praecox rainbows.
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