I'm a little confused by what you mean, but if you're talking about the durso overflow then I agree it is much easier to make/operate. The problem with a permanent overflow is: 1.Tank is already setup, 2.Drilling tempered glass is not high on my priority list, 3.I think a durso style will dissipate more co2 than the HOT overflow box. If I'm mistaken, and its something magical I haven't yet seen, send me a link. Thanks c.l.!
No, the pvc one I'm talking about is an over the tank one, not drilled with bulkheads. I suppose it doesnt have a special name??? Take a look at this: http://www.monsterfishkeepers.com/fo...ad.php?t=15733
my current project is drilled so I havent built one of those myself yet, but I plan on two more tanks in the near future and both will use these PVC HOT overflows, assuming they work out for me. I'll pain them black with krylon fusion since I also paint all my tank backs black. A lot cheaper and less permanent than a drilled tank for sure. Cost wise not a big difference with your diy acrylic design, just a lot easier since you dont have to cut acrylic or glue it or bend it. But if your used to working with acrylic then bending/cutting/gluing wouldnt be a big deal either, and the box style one is a little less intrsuive in the tank.
By durso style intake I just mean that instead of having the tube simply open at the top there will be a T and a 90* piece so the open part is facing the tank bottom, underwater. take a look at http://www.dursostandpipes.com/
and the picture on the home page there I'm talking just about the top part. All it has is a tiny air hole drilled into it (like 1/8") so it will self-start and its intake is submerged so they are suppose to be very quiet and I assume would have minimal co2 loss, though the box style one would probably be similar and you can even do the durso style in the back section for the final drain, like this: http://www.dursostandpipes.com/Popul...9/Default.aspx
. I've only studied them so I cant really compare them in real life, anyone else?