Hey guys, I haven't posted in quite a while. I’ve been busy with school and now that I am on break the first thing I want to give attention to is…..the aquarium, of course.

I now have a 90 gallon tank that I need to build a stand for. I'm not sure if I will build in the new "ADA" style or in the more traditional “furniture” style.

The plan is to put a sump in so as to remove all equipment from the display tank. The questions I have concern the stand design. Has anyone built a four foot open (no brace between the two doors) stand? If so what was your design and type of material?

I have designed one using Powerworks with the intension of using angle iron. Has anyone used this before? Or, does anyone know what size would be O.K., I am thinking of using 1.5”. I’m not sure where to look in determining what size angle will be adequate. I have looked online and found some specs but I do not yet have the skills to interpret this information. My obvious concern is sag in the middle and the purpose for wanting an open front (when doors are open) is that I am using a sump.

I also am going to try to add three or four heavy duty sliders under the sump so that I can slide it out when cleaning. Do any of you that use a sump feel this is a worthwhile endeavor? Finally, what size sump tank do I need for a 90 gallon display tank?

Sorry for so many questions, but I have a sparkling new tank that is crying out to become an over planted, algae-producing masterpiece.

One more thing, for any of you that are planning on going with a fifty-five gallon tank, do your self a favor and step up to a seventy-five gallon or anything at least 18 inches deep. Some have made it work, but the effort in creating depth will be much more rewarded with a deeper tank.

Stands are easy use 2x4s 5 horizontal 2x4s
Place them so the horizontal will bee like legs so the pressure goes into the floor.

Then connect the legs with a 2x4's so it makes the base.

Then put the 2x4 on the top of the top of the 2x4's and connect them so you have a complete box.

Also put cross braces in the top and bottom so put 2 in the middle.

You have 2 legs in the front and 3 in the back.

To make it stronger for rigidity you put a 3/8 plywood on the back.

Also put plywood on the top of the bottom so you have a floor for a sump and what not under your tank.

I will take some pics and send them to you.

I like to over engineer things, so, I'd use 2 x 6's for the top, & 2 x 4's on the bottom for th ebase, this way you won't ever worry about the "sag". 2 x 4's will be plenty for the "legs" also. You would be surprised how much weight they hold on end. I built a 2 x 4 stand for my 75 Gal tank which has the same footprint as a 90 gallon tank. But, I used a center leg in front & back... To be honest with you, the 2 x 4's should be OK for the entire stand, seeing the ones on the market come with either particle board or 1 x 6 pine (or Oak). Most of the ones I have seen are glued & stapled together. NOT something I would trust with almost 1000# of fish, water, & plants on... LOL!

Good luck & keep us posted!

As for the sump Q's, I can't help you, I use canisters, besides, I didn't think sumps were the way to go for a planted tank... But, I'm new to planted tanks. ;-)

Hope this helps!
Steve X.

Thank you for the responses. I am probably trying to over engineer with angle iron, but once the tank is full no one wants 90 gallons to flood the floor.

Architect1-sounds intriguing. If you have some pictures, I would love to see them.

Aquamanx-its tempting to buy a new stand to save time and energy, then when I go look at them fear strikes. If my peace of mind requires me to strengthen a stand that I have paid so much money for, I might as well build the entire thing. I built my 55 gallon stand and it came out great, but I also put a support in the front and back. I don't know, maybe the best thing to do is just go with canister filters and add a small support in the middle.

Architec1-I'm contemplating putting discus in the new tank. In fact, this is the reason I selected a 90 gallon over a 75. I have read that they are alot more maintenance. I may wait until I get out of school before I tackle that project.

Here is the stand I made for my 75G tank.
DIY Tank Stand Plans - MyFishTank.Net
I am not sure about removing the center brace it add a lot of support. If it was a shorter tank I would say go for it. If you are going to use Iron use Channel Iron for the Top of the stand it is stringer (can handle more weight) then the Angle Iron. I was going to go with a 90 but didnt like the extra height. Hope it helps.

MAHA

From a college friend, of haven discus! I can say there not much more work just different habits. And these fish tell you buy how they act and color’s what’s wrong. There really easy once u do 1 water change every other day at about 33%.

Some people do more some do less. You will have a different way that works for you. To start with discus get babies at about 2.6" cheep if you loose a couple hear or there its not going to kill your pocket. Id say blue diamonds one there 20$ each 2 there color is amazing 3 well I love them it’s my fav color. They take a longer time to mature but all the same worth it.

Tank I would say get a 55g make it bar bottom. So no rocks not nothing just water and fish. 1 its easy to clean 2 u see the dirt, 3 they maximize there growth, 4 easy to do water changes in the morn before class at lunch or even at supper. 5 well it doesn't take a lot of space and u can put it in the bottom of you 90g stand.

PH doesn't matter unless your breeding. I have made a lot of mistakes this is why there fun. I learned from them and have healthy stock from my expo. The other test keep at 0 at all times the one that’s ok but not ok to have high is Nitrate. 0 is what it should be at. 15 is ok and 25 is well water change time 50 your fish are pissed off at you. You can have high NO-3 but that’s with time like if your tank gets dirty is going to happen slowly your fish are not going to die from it.

Discus are not as hard as people make them out to be. all the pros have told people this time and time again its the cost of them and the little extra water changes people hate doing its sure laziness. Any other question and things I missed ask and I will say this its worked for me but may not work for you or other people. Its vary debatable thing. I had discus and did a water change once every other week. Got a breeding pair of blue diamonds and it was in a planted tank. Yeah there not a complete but I learn.

Oh with the 90 u can set up the plants lights and stone for the discus well they grow in the tank. And learn from the plants and things like that. It takes time about 8 months of trial and error but worth it when g/fs come see these beautiful fish that are like 8 year olds. They watch tv eat from a fork, play, and even ask you to pet them. They like what’s outside of the tank there vary curious fish. But vary smart.

sorry about the spelling vary bad at it slowly working on it. I need to get them pics I'll show you.

aww yeah hear we go any more pics need ask I will try and get it. sorry about the quality its a crappy cam.









this is for a 112 gallon tank 60 x 18 x 24"

Thanks for the pics Architec1. Sorry, I haven't responded I've been doing the Christmas thing. Do you have the tank operating on the stand currently? If so, have you had any problems? I am now thinking I will use wood, due to the convience of it.

If I get enough time I will draw it all up and post for advisement.

Another thing, has anyone made two foot doors for a four foot stand, in ADA style? I have been thinking about it quite a bit. One thought is to make two-two panel doors, such as a shutter closet door on tracks. I believe I can hide the tracks so they will be hard to see. Plus I can make the pins, that ride on the track, spring loaded so the doors can be removed or just swung out of the way.

I know this may sound confusing, but like I said I will try to draw it up and post it soom for effect. Thanks again for the help.

You can make a wide door that folds in the middle without using tracks. One of my kitchen cabinets (a stock cabinet) has a door made that way. It just has hinges attaching the two halves of the door. When it is open the halves fold together to reduce the amount of door sticking out in the room. Works great. Edit: I just noticed that my computer desk is made with cabinet doors like that too. They are always open, so I had forgotten they even exist.

On the 4 foot wide cabinet design: If you use a substantial rear panel in the cabinet, you reduce the need for a brace for the front of the cabinet. Then you can just use a wide board, like a 4" wide piece to brace under the front of the top. Most of the tank's weight will be supported by the rear panel, and the front brace just helps out by not allowing the top to "sag" in the front. My Jebo cabinet is a bit like that - a 1/4" thick back, with only a small cutout for wiring and plumbing, and no brace at all in the front. It is 30" wide. I have to admit that it makes me a bit nervous, because the top does slightly sag because of the lack of a brace under it in front. If I had it to do over I would add a brace there. (One more example of a LFS tank stand that is of marginal design.)

yeah the tank is operational I have 7 discus growing in it. had 9 sword tails, had 5 sea algae eaters, and 2 yellow plecos with 2 rams. Ask away I will tell anything if I don't know it I will send you the site that does.