OK, so, what I'm gathering from this is... 1) I can use the same regular airline I already have that I used to use on my airpump. 2) it would be better to run 2 bottles in sequence. (ie. add one 2 weeks after the first one starts, let them both run, when the first one runs out. Re-do the mixture 7 set it right back up. Am I right so far?
How would I go about adding 2 CO2 bottles to one set-up? Would I just need a "T" & 2 check valves?
Yes. But you can put the check valve on the single line (after the Tee) that runs to the reactor--then You would only need 1 check valve.
What is the size of the Rigid tubing you are using in yours? I did see the thread about the one you made, But, I didn't know the size of the tubing, & the other one seemed pretty easy/cost efficient, seeing it comes with a powerhead, & has the suction cups. Also, would it help by adding an airstone to the end of the CO2 line going into the Reactor? Even if I did use the "Almost DIY reactor" I would still add the extra holes in the housing, oplus the Airline going back to the intake of the powerhead. I like that Idea!
Not sure I ever understood the need for the rigid tubing. You should be able to drill the hole and insert the flexible tubing and skip the rigid all together, but maybe I'm missing something. An airstone will just clog. If Your reactor is setup correctly--an airstone is not needed.
Here are some pix of one that I built some time ago. If you have trouble finding the "Viewtainer"--these "Cracker Savers" work Great for $2 (at Walmart). I did a venturi return to the powerhead also, but mine is at the top--works Great. I have modified that design recently, but I used it for over 8 months and had no problems out of it.
The new way I build them is with the same Cracker Saver, no sponge/foam and the pump (via aqua 480) is at the bottom plumbed into the side at the top. The C02 line still goes into the top and there is no venturi. I have added a "Bleed" line at the top to bleed the system after water changes. With the pump plumbed in to the top-side--it creates a venturi effect. With the pump plumbed from the Bottom up--I don't have to shut it down for a water change, and I don't have to Re-prime the pump after a WC. With the full length tube I haven't found the need for the foam--It just traps shrimp and fry that get sucked into the pump and go for the ride
. And any Mirco-bubbles that escape are generally sucked back into the pump and recycled into the system. There is a school of thought that these escaping micro-bubbles are Good--I don't like the way they look floating around in the tank, so I avoid them. Its just my personal preference.
My guess would be that you could keep the foam and reduce the length of the Tube by 1/3-1/2. The tube is right at 10".