Diy Co2 For 1000 Liter Tank - Want Advice - The Planted Tank Forum
 
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post #1 of 13 (permalink) Old 10-14-2006, 02:47 AM Thread Starter
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Diy Co2 For 1000 Liter Tank - Want Advice

I am planning to make DIY CO2 system for my existing 72"X36"X 24" tall acquarium, and I need all the advice I can get.

Presently my tank is populated with tetras, barbs, crydoras, botia, angels, rainbows. I would to have most of them back into my aquarium after set-up.

I built this aquarium into the eastern wall of terrace room, the terrace surounds the room. The glass wall forms part of the eastern wall of the room, the aquarium is actually on the terrace, the roof of the aquarium is an extension from the roof of the room and made of concrete. The space between the roof and the aquarium is walled with glass in aluminum frame. The walls of the aquarium proper on the terrace side and the bottom is made of granite sheets insulated with puff. Sun streams into the aquarium from the glass on the top for about 5 hours every day, rest of the time it is brightly lit with indirect sunlight.

The bottom 1/3 from the front of my aquarium houses my undergravel filter. The rear 2/3 of the bottom is walled away by a 3" strip of acrylic. The bottom has a local lateritic soil mixed with fertilisers.

Two submersible pumps situated in the rear corners suck water from the UG and pump it through perforated 1/2" pipes at the rear bottom of the aquarium. The perforations are pointed at different angles towards the front of the aquarium and also a few vertically. The total volume of flow is about 500 liters per hour.

Two pipes from my twin areator feeds air into the perforated pipes of my UG output and the areators go on at night.

I intend to feed the CO2 at the intake of my UG pumps.
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post #2 of 13 (permalink) Old 10-14-2006, 03:12 AM
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1000 L = 265 gallons, approx.

At this level of volume, DIY CO2 would be an impossible solution to maintain dissolved CO2 at proper (ie: recommended) levels for plant growth. You'd have to go pressurized unless you want 15 2L bottles plumbed into your intakes.
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post #3 of 13 (permalink) Old 10-14-2006, 04:07 AM
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Your light intensity is not easily measured in conventional watts per gallon, so I'm not sure if that is a high light tank or moderate or low. If it is low light, DIY CO2 should be fine, as long as you use something like 4 bottles, with the start dates all staggered, so the amount of CO2 in the water is relatively constant. If it is moderate light, you may have algae problems with DIY CO2, and if it is high light, I don't see how you avoid having algae problems with DIY CO2. Whatever you do, if you use DIY CO2, use a very efficient reactor to get all of the CO2 dissolved into the water. I doubt that a CO2 mist would be enough.

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post #4 of 13 (permalink) Old 10-14-2006, 05:39 AM
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Seems as if the tank is approaching, if not at, moderate lighting conditions.
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post #5 of 13 (permalink) Old 10-16-2006, 02:36 AM Thread Starter
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I intend to incorporate 2 nos. Philips dense-line emitter metal halide 4100K CRI 80 (MHN150/TD/840) lights for the daytime use, further as there seems to be no other objections, I shall go ahead with my plans. My first step shall be to construct a 20liter CO2-generator by the yeast methord.
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post #6 of 13 (permalink) Old 10-16-2006, 04:05 AM
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Before making the CO2 generator, think seriously about making 4 smaller ones, so you can stagger the start times and keep the level of CO2 in the water more constant. This would also make it easier to diffuse the CO2 into the water in more than one place, which will also help keep it constant in the water.

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post #7 of 13 (permalink) Old 10-16-2006, 11:57 AM Thread Starter
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I read your advice, thankyou.
I intend to feed the CO2 into the intake of my two UGF pumps located at the rear bottom corners. The water from these two UGF pumps is forced through perforated pipes along the rear bottom of the aquarium. The perforations are directed at various angles towards the front.
Dont you think these perforations will distribute the CO2 rich water evenly in the aquarium?
If I make the yeast solution changes in the evenings, wont I have restored production from the next morning?
By using a large jar for the yeast production, I can have a large airtight cap which will allow me to put my hand inside the jar. If I can do that I can now place a thermostatic aquarium heater inside the jar, and also a small sponge filter to stop the yeast particles from being introduced into the distribution system and blocking the perforated pipes.
A single large jar would also simplify the insulation of the entire CO2 production jar.
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post #8 of 13 (permalink) Old 10-16-2006, 07:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by [email protected] View Post
I read your advice, thankyou.
I intend to feed the CO2 into the intake of my two UGF pumps located at the rear bottom corners. The water from these two UGF pumps is forced through perforated pipes along the rear bottom of the aquarium. The perforations are directed at various angles towards the front.
Dont you think these perforations will distribute the CO2 rich water evenly in the aquarium?
If I make the yeast solution changes in the evenings, wont I have restored production from the next morning?
By using a large jar for the yeast production, I can have a large airtight cap which will allow me to put my hand inside the jar. If I can do that I can now place a thermostatic aquarium heater inside the jar, and also a small sponge filter to stop the yeast particles from being introduced into the distribution system and blocking the perforated pipes.
A single large jar would also simplify the insulation of the entire CO2 production jar.
Those are very good reasons for going with one bottle, but I don't see why you would change the yeast/sugar solution every day. My experience was that it always lasts at least a week with nearly constant CO2 production during that time. Please do post a photo and drawing or drawings of the DIY setup you build. Your ideas sound very interesting.

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post #9 of 13 (permalink) Old 10-16-2006, 08:36 PM
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I'd use a pair of 4 bottles and a lot of them.
10 liter bottles at least, change them every 7-10 days on an alternative back and forth routine.

Honestly, if you want such a large tanks and want CO2, get a gas tank system. This DIY CO2 will be your Achillies heel otherwise.

Life will be much tougher.

It might not seem like it to you right now, but later and after a few algae issues, you will rethink things and if you'd simply done the CO2 gas tanks, from the start, then you would have had the nice tank you wanted rasther than wasting so much time and hassle with the inconsistencies of DIY on large tanks.

I did this myself, just trying to save you from the same faith.

Regards,
Tom Barr




Regards,
Tom Barr
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post #10 of 13 (permalink) Old 10-16-2006, 11:09 PM Thread Starter
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Hoppy I did not mean to charge the CO2 jar every evening, I only meant to charge the jar in the evening when routinely required, weekly or fortnightly, this will allow the CO2 production would have started by the next morning.

Your advice is very good Plantbrain but you see that the place where I live, is quite a outback, and it would be more difficult finding a CO2 cylinder. On the other hand the goverment here has a policy of overlooking the home made moonshine by the tribal people, every other tribal house regularly produces their own needs of beer and spirits, and some also sell. Yeast is plentiful in supply, all sorts, from those used in making the local rice beer, or that used in fermenting the boiled mahua fruit (a hop like fruit) before distilation.
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post #11 of 13 (permalink) Old 10-16-2006, 11:33 PM
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I would still go with two bottles. Even though you would have some production the next morning by changing over night, the trouble would be that your co2 production increases as the yeast population gets larger, and then decreases as the population dies off (I belive being killed by the alcohol it is producing).

I do mine two weeks apart since mine produce for about a month each. That way, as one is dying off, the other is getting going fully, and vice-versa. It really has helped me to even out the amount of co2 coming into the tank.

Something so expensive and addictive HAS to be illegal. I'm just waiting for the police to break down my door and confinscate my fish food.
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post #12 of 13 (permalink) Old 10-17-2006, 02:21 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TAF CAF View Post
I would still go with two bottles. Even though you would have some production the next morning by changing over night, the trouble would be that your co2 production increases as the yeast population gets larger, and then decreases as the population dies off (I belive being killed by the alcohol it is producing).

I do mine two weeks apart since mine produce for about a month each. That way, as one is dying off, the other is getting going fully, and vice-versa. It really has helped me to even out the amount of co2 coming into the tank.
That sounds practical. The action of the yeast increases with population and decreases as the ph falls when the secondary fermentation creates acetic acid. The end result of uncontroled fermentation is vinegar.
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post #13 of 13 (permalink) Old 10-17-2006, 03:08 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by epicfish View Post
1000 L = 265 gallons, approx.

At this level of volume, DIY CO2 would be an impossible solution to maintain dissolved CO2 at proper (ie: recommended) levels for plant growth. You'd have to go pressurized unless you want 15 2L bottles plumbed into your intakes.
or 2 5 gallon water cooler junks ^-^ works for my 72 gallon.
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