Door hinges on DIY ADA stand - The Planted Tank Forum
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post #1 of 22 (permalink) Old 08-17-2006, 08:43 AM Thread Starter
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Door hinges on DIY ADA stand

Hi all, ive had my diy ada stand finished with the tank setup for a good while, though i still never purchased hinges for the doors and finished that part up.

Problem is i ordered some invisible Euro hinges like so http://www.thehardwarehut.com/catalo...hp?p_ref=27022

They did not fit correctly at all. I called to ask for the right ones and they werent much help.

here is a picture of the stand setup, wood thickness is 1"




need it to look like so..




Any direction or advice would be much appreciated, i cant wait to finish this project its been doorless for some time now!
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post #2 of 22 (permalink) Old 08-17-2006, 09:17 AM
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What about the hinges dont fit? Those are the right ones. Its the one I'm using on my stand and they fit fine. You will need a forstners bit to install them properly.


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post #3 of 22 (permalink) Old 08-17-2006, 10:40 AM
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I used this type on my stand:

http://www.thehardwarehut.com/catalo...hp?p_ref=18294


No need to drill big round hole in the door for installation

Not easy to adjust though....

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post #4 of 22 (permalink) Old 08-17-2006, 04:18 PM Thread Starter
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thanks Sietch, i wasnt about to carve out any holes into the doors just to fit the hinges.

here is what im worried about though...
"This hinge can accomodate various overlays and is self-closing. Can accomodate door thickness up to 3/4in.(20mm)."

The wood i used is 1" thick, do you know if this will still work?
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post #5 of 22 (permalink) Old 08-17-2006, 04:18 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Marc
What about the hinges dont fit? Those are the right ones. Its the one I'm using on my stand and they fit fine. You will need a forstners bit to install them properly.
Did you need to drill holes? What is a forstner bit?
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post #6 of 22 (permalink) Old 08-17-2006, 04:47 PM
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A forstner bit drills a flat bottom hole.

óBill

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post #7 of 22 (permalink) Old 08-17-2006, 05:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bavarian3
thanks Sietch, i wasnt about to carve out any holes into the doors just to fit the hinges.

here is what im worried about though...
"This hinge can accomodate various overlays and is self-closing. Can accomodate door thickness up to 3/4in.(20mm)."

The wood i used is 1" thick, do you know if this will still work?
My understanding would be that max thickness for both cabinet wall (part A in the spec drawing in the link I pointed out) and the door (part B in the case of your cabinet) should not be more than 20mm.

If not there is a risk of the door touching the cabinet when openning (and not being able to open fully) I guess....

I built my cabinet with MDF 18mm thick so I was lucky I didn't have this problem.

May be you should try these ones:
http://www.thehardwarehut.com/catalo...php?p_ref=5071

I used them in another project and are very good, but you have to carve mortises to install them...

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post #8 of 22 (permalink) Old 08-17-2006, 06:36 PM
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You may also want to use more than 2 hinges on each door for 1inch thick mdf. Your doors must weigh a ton. Plus with those 90 degree hinges keep in mind you must have some space between the doors and the side you mount them too. Therefore your doors will probably stick out a little.


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post #9 of 22 (permalink) Old 08-17-2006, 08:18 PM
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Euro hinges won't work well at all if the door is too thick. But, you can get hinges made for thicker doors:
http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?p...&filter=hinges

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post #10 of 22 (permalink) Old 08-17-2006, 08:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hoppy
Euro hinges won't work well at all if the door is too thick. But, you can get hinges made for thicker doors:
http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?p...&filter=hinges
I agree with what Hoppy said. When the door is too big and weighs too much, it will sag and it wont look right.

The link Bill linked is a forstner bit. Its something you need to install the type of hinges you have. Its the proper way to install them.

The door can be any thickness you want. you just have to drill the door the proper depth and install the hing. Even if you drill too deep it will still sit properly, just don't go through all the way of course.


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post #11 of 22 (permalink) Old 08-17-2006, 10:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Marc
I agree with what Hoppy said. When the door is too big and weighs too much, it will sag and it wont look right.

The link Bill linked is a forstner bit. Its something you need to install the type of hinges you have. Its the proper way to install them.

The door can be any thickness you want. you just have to drill the door the proper depth and install the hing. Even if you drill too deep it will still sit properly, just don't go through all the way of course.
My experience is that if the door is more than 3/4 inch thick the door doesn't open all the way. The front surface of the door hits the cabinet front behind. The hinges made for thicker doors allow for that up to 1 1/4 inch thickness.

I used to make a lot of kitchen cabinet doors and drawers for upgrading kitchens, so I have installed a few hundred such doors, both with overlay and flush doors, both thick and thin. You can get a pretty cheap drill bit made for installing these hinges, but it isn't a forstner bit, just a flat bottom bit - the one I used was carbide toothed and cheap too. If you don't use a drill press, there is a simple fixture you can get that lets you use a hand drill accurately - look through the Rockler catalog for it.

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post #12 of 22 (permalink) Old 08-18-2006, 12:21 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hoppy
Euro hinges won't work well at all if the door is too thick. But, you can get hinges made for thicker doors:
http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?p...&filter=hinges
these ones look like they should work. do i need to purchase mounting plates with these as well?
what is the difference between half and full overlay?

thanks for all the help guys.
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post #13 of 22 (permalink) Old 08-18-2006, 01:35 AM
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Euro hinges are not really hinges in the classical sense, they are linkages. So, they are designed to swing the door through a specific path, specific angle, ending up in a specific place. Full overlay hinges are designed for the door to overlap the cabinet side the full thickness of the side, normally 3/4 inch. Half overlay hinges are designed for the door to overlap only half of the side of the cabinet or 3/8 inch. The path the back edge of the door follows as the door swings open is different for the two designs, so a single design won't usually work for both applications. Your stand looks like you need full overlay hinges. But, if the side truly is 1 inch thick the hinge may let the door hit the outside edge of the side, especially if the door opens more than 90 degrees. The hinges come with mounting plates, so no you don't need to buy them separately.

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post #14 of 22 (permalink) Old 08-18-2006, 03:41 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hoppy
Euro hinges are not really hinges in the classical sense, they are linkages. So, they are designed to swing the door through a specific path, specific angle, ending up in a specific place. Full overlay hinges are designed for the door to overlap the cabinet side the full thickness of the side, normally 3/4 inch. Half overlay hinges are designed for the door to overlap only half of the side of the cabinet or 3/8 inch. The path the back edge of the door follows as the door swings open is different for the two designs, so a single design won't usually work for both applications. Your stand looks like you need full overlay hinges. But, if the side truly is 1 inch thick the hinge may let the door hit the outside edge of the side, especially if the door opens more than 90 degrees. The hinges come with mounting plates, so no you don't need to buy them separately.
Awesome! thank you very much.
Im going to order a couple pairs of half overlay from the rockler site. From what i understand these will work better than the full overlay? The side is indeed 1" exactly, same with the door.
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post #15 of 22 (permalink) Old 08-18-2006, 04:22 AM
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Your doors really need the full overlay hinges. At worst you will have to use them with about 1/4 inch of the cabinet side showing. The half overlay would expose at least 1/2 inch, and probably 5/8 inch of the cabinet side.

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