30g DIY Tank Stand - Questions - The Planted Tank Forum
 
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post #1 of 11 (permalink) Old 03-08-2006, 05:24 PM Thread Starter
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30g DIY Tank Stand - Questions

Since I cannot find a decent stand anywhere I thought I would try to make one. I pretty much wanted to copy the one JohnP (I think) did, but out of veneer plywood. I have attached a sketch of how I think I would put it together. I think it is relatively self explanitory as for how it goes together.

The tank is 36"x12"x18"h.


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Step 1. Build the shell out of 3/4" veneer plywood. All joints would be biscuit jointed. The back goes all the way to the ground and is the full width. In later steps I would make the legs 2 layers of 3/4" for added strength.

Step 2. Finished box. Dashed lines indicated biscuited joints.

Step 3. Add second 3/4" plywood to the outside to give it 'legs'. These would be mitred and screwed from the back to fasten them. THe top would be 3/4" with edging on it for the tank to sit in.

Step 4. Finished tank.

I am looking for comments on improving the stand construction. I am fairly certain that it will hold the tank but always want fellow hoobyist to back up my thoughts! So please, let me know what you think.

It's be stained black walnut and polyed.


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post #2 of 11 (permalink) Old 03-08-2006, 06:53 PM
eds
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Looks nice, and nicely documented.
I'm no expert on woodworking, but why do you propose making the sides out of 3 seperate pieces? Just to avoid having the sides flush with the ground?
And a minor point, I asume you have already chosen door hardware?

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post #3 of 11 (permalink) Old 03-08-2006, 06:57 PM
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It will be more than strong enough. A 30 gallon tank will weigh about 250 pounds, or about as much as a typical 6 foot overweight American. Think of how that guy can sit on what seems to be a flimsy wooden dining room chair. You could leave the second layer of 3/4 plywood off with no problem, or you could use 1/2 inch plywood. The only thing, in my opinion, to be careful of is to be sure the corners will be tightly fastened to avoid loosening from racking stresses. A screwed on metal angle inside each corner, top and bottom would do that easily.

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post #4 of 11 (permalink) Old 03-08-2006, 09:16 PM
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No real input on improving the construction (looks good to me!) but may I ask what program you used for the design work? That's pretty cool!

Sláinte!
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post #5 of 11 (permalink) Old 03-08-2006, 11:59 PM
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This could end up being as heavy as the tank itself.

I don't think anything will move, except maybe the floor.


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post #6 of 11 (permalink) Old 03-09-2006, 01:44 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the comments.. I think it's just one of those things.. rather be safe than sorry. Over design the thing so I have no problems.

eds: You nailed it. Just so it has the look of legs. I really like the stands that seem raised off the ground. I have some really simple brushed nickel door hardware, very minimal appearance.. but fully functional.

hoppy: GREAT AVATAR! Hhehe. I think I'll do the metal 'L' brackets.. again. better safe than sorry. And for that reason I'll probably stick to the 3/4" plywood.

RoseHawke: THanks, I used AutoCAD (for line work/3d modelling), AccuRender (apply materials/render images) and Photoshop (to compile everything together). I spent 7 years studying architecture so I seem to have a pension for making even simple things more complex than they need to be (I tried a single line drawing.. wasn't working for me).

Any more comments?


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post #7 of 11 (permalink) Old 03-09-2006, 01:18 PM
eds
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No question of the hinges working fine with the doors "inset"?
Just trying to anticipate the type of screw-ups I'd make!
Very nice design.
I'm eager to see the finished product.
You will really be doing folks a service if you document this well.

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post #8 of 11 (permalink) Old 03-09-2006, 01:37 PM
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Ah, thank you . I've looked at AutoCAD before, a bit expensive and it's got a bit of a learning curve to it for something I would just be using very occasionally. Maybe in the future!

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Cindy



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post #9 of 11 (permalink) Old 03-09-2006, 01:52 PM Thread Starter
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I was thinking of just using european hinges. You only need about 1/8" on the hinge side for them to open fully. The only problem is you need a forsner bit to drill the pocket for the hinge on the door.. but luckily a local woodshop will do it for me.. for a price of course. I may have to add some wood blocking on the inside to fasten the hinges though.

I am going to try to document it as much as possible, but I usually get caught up in making it and get lazy on the photo end.

RoseHawke: Have you looked at SketchUp? It's easy to use, give you almost the same results. I don't know about pricing though.


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post #10 of 11 (permalink) Old 03-11-2006, 06:25 PM
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Have you given any thought to adding levelers to the design. I live in an old house and none of my floors are actually level.
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post #11 of 11 (permalink) Old 03-11-2006, 06:42 PM
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Also you may want to add some interior triangle corner gussets. That would fight the tendence of the stand to twist. Also, do you plan on edgebanding the "legs" and the doors so you don't have any unfinished edge.
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