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post #1 of 20 (permalink) Old 10-11-2005, 03:04 PM Thread Starter
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check valves

i hope this is not a stupid question but how do you change diy yeast bottles without losing too much pressure? i use two,two liter bottles and they both have check valves.are you suppose to close the valve when you take the bottle off to change it and open it when you put a new bottle on? diy co2 is new to me thanks
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post #2 of 20 (permalink) Old 10-11-2005, 05:26 PM
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Check valves let stuff through in one direction. Since you want to get CO2 into your tank, you can't use the check valves to keep the pressure in the bottles. The purpose of the check valves is to keep tank water in the tank (and away from the regulator if you use pressurized CO2).

To keep the pressure up in one bottle while changing another bottle, I pinch the line with one of those metal clamps (Binder clips) that are used to keep a bunch of papers clamped together.


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post #3 of 20 (permalink) Old 10-11-2005, 05:39 PM
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I'm using pressurized CO2 without a check valve. It sounds like I need to get on the ball and add one. Does the check valve get attached where the tubing attaches to the needle valve/bubble counter?

Can someone please post a photo of their set-up?

Thanks,

Jim
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post #4 of 20 (permalink) Old 10-11-2005, 05:53 PM
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If you use check valve on each bottle (and run the bottles parallel rather than series - imagine a Y rather than a F), I think it would prevent you from lossing pressure .

58 gallon oceanic, Kessel 360 tun sun, pressurized co2, eheim pimp #179 - 2217 and diffuser
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post #5 of 20 (permalink) Old 10-11-2005, 07:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim
I'm using pressurized CO2 without a check valve. It sounds like I need to get on the ball and add one. Does the check valve get attached where the tubing attaches to the needle valve/bubble counter?

Can someone please post a photo of their set-up?

Thanks,

Jim
It goes between the regulator and the bubble counter...to prevent water from entering the regulator. I use a denerle (marine depot has it for $20).

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post #6 of 20 (permalink) Old 10-11-2005, 10:11 PM
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Quote:
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If you use check valve on each bottle (and run the bottles parallel rather than series - imagine a Y rather than a F), I think it would prevent you from lossing pressure .
Nope I think that's not how it works. The check valve prevents air and water from going into the bottle. It doesn't prevent CO2 from escaping from the bottle. As soon as you disconnect any bottle, the other will go limp. Not that this is such a great problem. If you keep the air volume in the bottles small, it doesn't take that long to build up pressure. I usually just shake the bottles in a circular motion to get a temporary SHO situation (super high output).


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post #7 of 20 (permalink) Old 10-12-2005, 02:43 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim
I'm using pressurized CO2 without a check valve. It sounds like I need to get on the ball and add one. Does the check valve get attached where the tubing attaches to the needle valve/bubble counter?

Can someone please post a photo of their set-up?

Thanks,

Jim

Normally a check valve just has two hose barbs on it. And should IME go as close to the reactor as possible.
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post #8 of 20 (permalink) Old 10-12-2005, 03:10 AM
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Why's that Rex? Think it will prevent wear & tear on your tubing that the water will subject it to?
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post #9 of 20 (permalink) Old 10-12-2005, 03:46 AM
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post #10 of 20 (permalink) Old 10-12-2005, 03:52 AM
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It should be placed as close to the potential source of leaking as possible because you want to eliminate the presence of fluid in the system as much as possible. Whatever length of tubing exists between the leak source and the cv is considered compromised. If, for instance, I had chosen to place the check valve directly next to the needle valve on my regulator, then water could siphon from the aquarium the tube all the way up to that point, which would cause me problems as I would need to drain the tube.

Also, check valves can fail over time. If my check valve fails, water still has to flow all the way through the tube before it reaches the regulator where it can do damage. If my cv were on the regulator end of my line, a failure would be much much more likely to result in water entering the regulator since the water would only need to travel less than an inch past the cv.

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post #11 of 20 (permalink) Old 10-12-2005, 04:41 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wasserpest
Nope I think that's not how it works. The check valve prevents air and water from going into the bottle. It doesn't prevent CO2 from escaping from the bottle. As soon as you disconnect any bottle, the other will go limp. Not that this is such a great problem. If you keep the air volume in the bottles small, it doesn't take that long to build up pressure. I usually just shake the bottles in a circular motion to get a temporary SHO situation (super high output).
I humbly disagree. A check valve should prevent backflow. if both diy generators are in parallel - and each is isolated with it's own check valve, I do not see how tank 2 would be able to depressurize to tank one. Tank 1's check valve should prevent this.

Now if you hook them is series and you disconnect tank 2, you will loose
presure.

1> to tank <2 diconnect either and no loss of pressure in the other
1>2>tank - disconnect 2 and 1 looses presure, disconnet 1, no loss of pressure in 2

Naturally the one you disconnect will go limp either way.

58 gallon oceanic, Kessel 360 tun sun, pressurized co2, eheim pimp #179 - 2217 and diffuser
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post #12 of 20 (permalink) Old 10-12-2005, 04:59 PM
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If you set it up that way how will the CO2 get out of the soda bottle into the reactor? The check valve will prevent that.

Maybe it's just semantics. When you say the "tank" depressurized, I am assuming you are talking about the CO2 generating DIY soda bottles.

If you are talking about pressurized connected to two planted tanks, then you are correct, but you are in the wrong thread.


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post #13 of 20 (permalink) Old 10-12-2005, 06:02 PM
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check valve allows for flow one way - out of generator. The whole purpose of check valves is to prevent a syphon - flow out of the tank.

When presure in the generator is greater than the line to the tank, the valve opens and co2 is burped into the tank (and the pressure equalises and the valve closes untill the generator rebuilds enough pressure to open the valve). Then pressure in the generator is less than the line to the tank (such as when the tank is unscrewed) the valve closes to prevent gas/water from going into the generator.


58 gallon oceanic, Kessel 360 tun sun, pressurized co2, eheim pimp #179 - 2217 and diffuser
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post #14 of 20 (permalink) Old 10-12-2005, 06:08 PM
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Nice drawing, thanks. And you are correct, that's the purpose of the check valves.

Now, when you disconnect one bottle, the other will go limp.

To prevent that, you can use a binder clip or anything you'd like and cut off the airline between the bottle and the Y.

Or just ignore the temporary loss of pressure and give them a good shake after reconnecting.

Like I said.


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post #15 of 20 (permalink) Old 10-12-2005, 06:34 PM
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if yours is hooked up like I drew, and the second bottle goes limp, I would test your check valve - more than likely the co2 has corroded the spring and it is locked open. Cheep check valves will not last that long in the presence of carbonic acid.

58 gallon oceanic, Kessel 360 tun sun, pressurized co2, eheim pimp #179 - 2217 and diffuser
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