help with DIY hood structure - The Planted Tank Forum
 
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post #1 of 6 (permalink) Old 04-06-2005, 07:51 PM Thread Starter
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help with DIY hood structure

Hello,
I built a hood for my 100g using george booth's design (the flip top kind). I must of used the wrong kind of wood (pine) because the heat from the PC bulbs or the moisture from the tank is causing it to bend and flex. The joints are still at 90 degrees but in middle span, the wood warps and twists there. Any suggestions on how to avoid this? Im about to build a new one for a 180 gallon and want to avoid this problem.
I used a 8" and 10" wide pine and used screws to attach the parts of the hood. I didnt use an internal frame for the canopy to attach the face and sides. Some ideas for the next design is to use an internal frame of 2by2"s or use hardwood for the outer faces, or use kiln dried wood?
Any suggestions?

Thanks.
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post #2 of 6 (permalink) Old 04-06-2005, 10:49 PM
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I would imaging that pine (1/2 or 3/4) at that length will warp anywhere it can. A lot of how much it warps it dependant on moisture content, and well, since it is over tank, that MC is pretty high and constant.

My first question would be how you finished the wood. It needs some solid sealing/light sanding/sealing/lighter sanding/sealing before painting, or, if stained, stain/light sand/stain/lighter sanding followed by thinned out poly, sand, full strength poly, very light sanding (000 or 0000) and poly some more. You need to make it so that the wood doesn't absorb that humidity you are putting it over.

You could go with more expensive to very expensive woods, but it really depends on the planned finish. Staining pine can be very boring, oak too...but each has their own preference...no sense buying Teak to paint over it with gloss black.


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post #3 of 6 (permalink) Old 04-06-2005, 11:47 PM
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Sounds like a waterproofing issue to me too. Most of the stands / canopies that one buys in an aquarium store are made of pine. The quality ones are sealed well and warp only after several years of use.

I'm in the process of building a DIY MH/T8 pendant for my 75 gallon and I'm going to try covering the pendant shell (made of wood) in a product called Monokote. It is used by radio control airplane hobbiests to cover the model planes with. It is a sheet plastic that adheres to and eventually shrink wraps to wood when heated enough and should provide a nice finish and a waterproof seal.
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post #4 of 6 (permalink) Old 04-07-2005, 01:16 AM Thread Starter
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Wow you guys know your stuff! I think you guys found problem. I didnt seal the inside of the canopy! I primed the outside and sanded. Then put several coats of gloss enamel on the primer. BUt the inside of bare wood.

So will sealing the inside of the canopy this time the right way prevent the warping?

What wood would you recommend that I use this time? I found kiln drined butter pine, non-dried pine, dried white wood, oak, popular, and birch at my local home depot. My stand has a oak finish.

I appreciate all your help!
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post #5 of 6 (permalink) Old 04-07-2005, 01:38 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by grandmasterofpool
I'm in the process of building a DIY MH/T8 pendant for my 75 gallon and I'm going to try covering the pendant shell (made of wood) in a product called Monokote. It is used by radio control airplane hobbiests to cover the model planes with. It is a sheet plastic that adheres to and eventually shrink wraps to wood when heated enough and should provide a nice finish and a waterproof seal.
Ah gad you're killing me! Hey; if it works, let me know. Easier way to "pimp my tank" than airbrushing and masking.

I stained the pieces parts for the contraption I'm building for my 75 with brown acrylic that matched (sortof) the stand and am now using some pour-on epoxy resin finish.

My mind is aglow with trancient nodes of thought, careening through a cosmic vapor of invention - Hedley Lamar
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post #6 of 6 (permalink) Old 04-07-2005, 02:21 AM
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I will post pics when it is complete. It will be awhile because I go in for minor surgery this coming tuesday.
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