concrete slab to level aquarium - The Planted Tank Forum
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post #1 of 20 (permalink) Old 01-01-2012, 11:52 PM Thread Starter
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concrete slab to level aquarium

has anyone here done this? just wondering if anyone has suggestions on the type of cement used. going to do this regardless. going to hit up rona see what they have. need something that mixes quite soupy so it levels on its own, yet can carry the load of the tank.
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post #2 of 20 (permalink) Old 01-02-2012, 01:29 AM
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It's called self-leveling compound/cement. Most home improvement stores should carry the product.

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post #3 of 20 (permalink) Old 01-02-2012, 01:33 AM Thread Starter
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right on deeda, thanks! i expected as much. just hope it can hold the weight lol
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post #4 of 20 (permalink) Old 01-02-2012, 06:52 PM Thread Starter
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just took a trip to rona, found the self leveling mix. does anyone have experience with stuff? it says do not pour on wood base ( i had planned on it ) as the forms will have to be contained ( tank will be on a hardwood veneer ) and curing time. can i cut corners with this stuff? or do i have to put a pad of cement down, and let it cure for a month? then level it out?
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post #5 of 20 (permalink) Old 01-02-2012, 07:29 PM
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What is the floor made of? If it is wood, it will need to be supported very rigidly or it will flex under the tank load, and the concrete pad will crack or break up completely. I wouldn't try this myself. I would instead just level the stand with shims under the legs. Much easier, much easier when you move the tank, and my spouse would chase me halfway to Canada if I tried the concrete on her floor.

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post #6 of 20 (permalink) Old 01-02-2012, 07:45 PM
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A shim will work fine.


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post #7 of 20 (permalink) Old 01-02-2012, 08:09 PM Thread Starter
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the tank is on a full bottom stand. shims are a bad choice as it would create a flex/twist in the frame. i would have to build up half the base frame to support it properly. which is is an option at this point. really the only option if a concrete pad wouldn't work. the floor, as i mentioned is a hardwood veneer. not sure what the sub floor is , likely wood. if i sunk mesh into the concrete it would give it more stability and resistance to cracking. i don't plan to pour concrete on the floor itself; that's crazy lol. there would have to be a bottom to the forms.
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post #8 of 20 (permalink) Old 01-02-2012, 11:19 PM
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Is the problem that the floor is not level? If so, how much out of level is it?

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post #9 of 20 (permalink) Old 01-02-2012, 11:41 PM
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First off how big of a tank is this (this would determine the size lumber I'm going to suggest) I would just build a short 4-6" four legged frame and shim or cut to height the legs then set the stand on top of the frame, you can paint it to match the stand and in the end it's removable and alot easier.

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post #10 of 20 (permalink) Old 01-02-2012, 11:49 PM
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Before going any further, if there has been a substantial sag in the floor, I'd look or crawl underneath and make sure that the house frame is still sturdy. I get the impression we're talking about a rather large tank, and if so, this step is even more important.
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post #11 of 20 (permalink) Old 01-02-2012, 11:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fyns View Post
the tank is on a full bottom stand. shims are a bad choice as it would create a flex/twist in the frame. i would have to build up half the base frame to support it properly. which is is an option at this point. really the only option if a concrete pad wouldn't work. the floor, as i mentioned is a hardwood veneer. not sure what the sub floor is , likely wood. if i sunk mesh into the concrete it would give it more stability and resistance to cracking. i don't plan to pour concrete on the floor itself; that's crazy lol. there would have to be a bottom to the forms.
It doesn't flex/twist the frame at all. When you finish shimming you have the frame level, all four corners in the same plane, so nothing twists. It is when you don't shim the stand that it twists to mate with the uneven floor.

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post #12 of 20 (permalink) Old 01-03-2012, 01:38 AM Thread Starter
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the floor is off by 1/4 " over the 18 inches of the tank (90 bow). the stand, appears to rely on the fact that the tank makes contact with stand around the entire perimeter,to bare the load and distribute the weight, if this was a 4 legged stand ( made of the same material ) it would surly collapse. the riser frame is a good idea, but again... the weight distribution is low. the only proper way to shim this tank is grade the sides from 0-1/4 " with two shims, and than a strip 1/4" the length. contact and weight distribution is integral in the design of the stand. tomorrow i will check the Frame work below if i can. maybe try and get some schematics.
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post #13 of 20 (permalink) Old 01-03-2012, 01:53 AM
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1/4" is nothing. It sounds like your feeling is that the stand is the problem, rather than the floor. Think about making a new stand?
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post #14 of 20 (permalink) Old 01-03-2012, 01:57 AM
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If you shim it level and don't have 3/4 gaps, there is not a thing to fear at all.

Cement would end in one sort of failure or another....
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post #15 of 20 (permalink) Old 01-03-2012, 02:03 AM Thread Starter
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lol i do feel the stand is the problem. it is being reinforced with gusets, but i would feel better if it was a little more level.
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