hoftiezer reactor ?s - The Planted Tank Forum
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post #1 of 22 (permalink) Old 03-23-2005, 11:44 PM Thread Starter
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hoftiezer reactor ?s

Quote:
Originally Posted by scolley
Here's a link to an in-line reactor from one of our members. I built one and never looked back. Everything else I tried was ca-ca next to this... quiet, staggeringly efficient.

Only changes... if you can't find the clear PVC, nothing's wrong with white. And if you can't find a top piece with the angled whole (as I couldn't) just drill a hole and epoxy in a cheap plastic airline connector.

So I've given up on my culligan reactor . No matter what I try Im either bogging down the pump driving it or letting too many bubbles get through. Right now I have a airstone inside of it with a upside down cola bottle bottom catching all the bubbles and still it wants to build up and gurgle bubbles out the return. So Im giving the hoftiezer design a try. Im able to find most of the parts and Im going to pick up some clear 2" pvc this weekend.

Q. what size chamber works best? Instructions say anywhere from 6-12". Is this trivial because I have to buy at least 2 feet and Im inclined to use a 12" clear chamber.

Ive been told the bio balls are not actually necessary but logic tells me they would be or the bubbles would just go right through...right?

I think I read you need to mount this at an angle. what angle?

ernest

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post #2 of 22 (permalink) Old 03-24-2005, 12:19 AM
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I'm another Hofteizer-reactor man. Both of the ones I've built are about 14" long once all the end fittings are put on, but are built around a 6" length of clear 2" PVC. As for the bio-balls, you can use anything inert that won't clog easily of restrict flow too much. I personally use a tangle of Weed-Eater cutting line in mine.

I haven't found the mounting angle to be that critical. The one under my 40gal tank is angled about 15° off vertical, while the one under my 125 is straight up vertical.

—Bill

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post #3 of 22 (permalink) Old 03-24-2005, 01:01 AM
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Score another one for a Hofteizer style one.

Here is a pic and some info on mine:
http://www.geocities.com/jhoetzl/tank/equipment.html

I don't remember the measurements on the whole thing, maybe I'll get a ruler next to it in a pic one day soon...

I don't think the bio balls are critical, but a local LFS "donated" a few to me, so I put them in. I doubt the bubbles would just race through, but a little extra churning around doesn't seem to hurt.


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post #4 of 22 (permalink) Old 03-24-2005, 01:17 AM Thread Starter
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thank you much. the weed eater line is good tip..

that 1/4" to 1/2" co2 line fitting is going to be a pita to find as well as the 1" elbow that fitting screws into. I think I may have to drill a hole in a regular 1" elbow and just stuff the co2 resistant tubing through. I find if the hole is small enough the tubing itself seals the hole just fine without the need for silicone or epoxy.

ernest

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post #5 of 22 (permalink) Old 03-24-2005, 01:33 AM
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Ernest

I may want to pick up a few of those with you if your ordering them.
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post #6 of 22 (permalink) Old 03-24-2005, 01:46 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by snowman
I may want to pick up a few of those with you if your ordering them.
I really doubt it will come to that as Im sure there is more than one work around and Im hoping to get this done this weekend. Waiting a week or two for one small part would drive me crazy. I'll let you know If I change my mind. I have a friend looking into what he has for 2" clear pvc but if not I will have to buy a minimum of two feet. your welcome to half that if you want.

ernest

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post #7 of 22 (permalink) Old 03-24-2005, 01:56 AM
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Check with your friend, if that doesn't work out I have about 8-10 feet. I have a couple of ways around the barb fitting but like it better. How much 2" do you need?
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post #8 of 22 (permalink) Old 03-24-2005, 11:26 AM
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I have a Hofteizer style inline reactor and could not be happier. I made some modifications due to the materials I had on hand. I used 1-1/2" PVC reduced to 3/4" instead of the 2" reduced to 1-1/2". I was able to find everything at HD. Put it together in less than 20min. The pvc primer cost almost as much as all the components.

The angle does not appear to that important. Mine is vertical (for the most part) and works great.


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post #9 of 22 (permalink) Old 03-24-2005, 06:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by e.lark
that 1/4" to 1/2" co2 line fitting is going to be a pita to find as well as the 1" elbow that fitting screws into.
I found the elbow at Home Depot, and I know Lowes has them too, and my local True Value had a vast selection of PVC parts, and the local plumbing supply shop had the rest. True Value even keeps scrap PVC cuttings around, so my 2" piece, although not clear, was $0.45.

The 1/4 to 1/2 threaded connection I only found in brass, but since I was getting the 5/8 barb fittings, I got the other barbs for the co2 as well.


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post #10 of 22 (permalink) Old 03-24-2005, 06:52 PM
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I bet James would be happy to find his plan is working for you all. Understanding now that it's best to insert the gas at the top and not the bottom is making me decide to rebuild mine. It's time to clean the hoses lately so time to go to all the HW stores and find these peices.

Thaks for reminding me I have somthing else to do this weekend.

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post #11 of 22 (permalink) Old 03-24-2005, 11:52 PM
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I am not sold on inserting gas at the top of the reactor. I have built two of these in a similar style and had to switch the inlet to the bottom in order for mine to work properly.


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post #12 of 22 (permalink) Old 03-24-2005, 11:54 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kzr750r1
Understanding now that it's best to insert the gas at the top and not the bottom is making me decide to rebuild mine.

Yes, thank you for making me reread the instructions. That didnt make sense to me at first but now I see. Intake is at the top and return is the bottom.

I found brass 1/2" to 1/4" for the co2 line but I dont want to deal with any possible corrosion so Im using a 1" pvc T instead of the elbow. Im putting a cap in one side of the T and drilling a hole in it and either glue a barb in or just stuff the hose through.

ernest

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post #13 of 22 (permalink) Old 03-25-2005, 12:00 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vinlo
I am not sold on inserting gas at the top of the reactor. I have built two of these in a similar style and had to switch the inlet to the bottom in order for mine to work properly.
but...then your bubbles would go right through with the current and not want to float back to the top giving you total disolve. How would you keep this from happening?

ernest

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post #14 of 22 (permalink) Old 03-25-2005, 12:00 AM
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You could also go with a 1/4" John Guest fitting also sold as Watt's fittings in the plumbing section of lowe's and HD. They make them with 1/2" NPT to 1/4" line. I know your trying to get this done this weekend so if you have trouble finding anything give me a shout and I'll bring you what you need (if I have it and probably do)
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post #15 of 22 (permalink) Old 03-25-2005, 11:50 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vinlo
I am not sold on inserting gas at the top of the reactor. I have built two of these in a similar style and had to switch the inlet to the bottom in order for mine to work properly.
Ahhhh. Yes but did you try different lengthes? I think the key component of his design is inserting the gas at the first 90. Depending on your pump and accessories a longer main tube may work better.

I think it was Wolfenxx that finally setteled on a lenght of 20" and no media is in the reactor. I like that kind of thinking since they do get pretty grungy with bioballs or anything else placed as a substitute.

Personally, I was planning my pluming changes in my head while I was trying to go to sleep last night. Incorperating the flow and insertion methods of this design were on my mind before seeing this string but now I have to get some more materials.

Too bad I'll have all the kids with me today so I can't go to the HW store today.

BTW brass will corrode but it will take a long time for it to eat away the entire barb fitting. Since these brass MPT to barb fittings are the only thing I can find locally I've been giving it a try. So far so good.

Good luck guys hope everything works out finding parts.

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