Trying to make a Cade Class Filter.. - The Planted Tank Forum
 
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post #1 of 7 (permalink) Old 12-07-2011, 05:31 PM Thread Starter
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Trying to make a Cade Class Filter..

I am trying to make a Canister filter which is Cade Class.

Meaning something VERY nice... using a industrial class pumps..

I didnt want it BIG like a real Cade, but i wanted it Nice looking.

The pump which will be powering the canister will be a DDC.
Model name: MCP355
Nominal Voltage: 12 VDC
Operating Voltage range: 8 - 13.2 VDC
Minimum Starting Voltage: 9 VDC
Nominal Power (@12 V): 14-19W
Nominal Current (@12 V): 1.16-1.58 Amp
Motor Type: Electronically commutated, brushless DC, spherical motor
Maximum Head: 15 ft (4.5 m)
Maximum Discharge: ~ 120 GPH (454 LPH)
Connection Size: 3/8" barbs
Maximum Pressure: 22 PSI (1.5 BAR)
Temperature Range: Up to 140°F (60°C)
Noise Level (Swiftech's Results): 30 ~ 32 dBA in a quiet room @ 2'
Electrical Connector: 4pin Molex
Weight: 7.3 oz (207 gr.)
RPM Sensor: 3 pin connector




Now to show you what i did that pump:
I first put a new shell on it and changed the ports so it could take G1/4BSP fittings.


Gave it an acrylic Top on as well:


There is no wetted metal part minus the impeller which is stainless steel.

The entire pump matrix is no bigger then a Rio 800:


I was intending on using 2 plastic fittings as a connector in the middle.
My Friend is sending me these guys to play with on this project:


The tap'd holes on the tube is as follows:

1 will be used as a return, the other to prime the unit, and the last one i will plug with a acrylic LED stopper.


This is the inlet where it will feed directly into the DDC.


And i have 2 tube sizes to decide on.. a 200mm or a 400mm.
These are 60mm diameter acrylic tubes, although if needed i can get 80mm diameter tubes as well.


But for compact sake... i am going to try it on the 60mm tubes...
Ideally it should look something like this:




So a few concerns... the DDC has massive head pressure... im hoping that the medium inside the tube will cause restrictions and not make me force a whirlpool inside my tank.

But id like to hear your thoughts on this project... is it too much? am i thinking too much bling?
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post #2 of 7 (permalink) Old 12-07-2011, 07:04 PM
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Jeez, bro, mixing two different hobbies together!

What size tank is this going on?


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– a 40g reef
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post #3 of 7 (permalink) Old 12-07-2011, 07:15 PM
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I would never trust acrylic for something like this, especially the threaded ports. That is one plastic that can crack when you least expect it to. Are you doing this just for the fun of creating something like this?

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post #4 of 7 (permalink) Old 12-07-2011, 07:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Naekuh View Post
I am trying to make a Canister filter which is Cade Class.

Meaning something VERY nice... using a industrial class pumps..

I didnt want it BIG like a real Cade, but i wanted it Nice looking.

The pump which will be powering the canister will be a DDC.
Model name: MCP355
Nominal Voltage: 12 VDC
Operating Voltage range: 8 - 13.2 VDC
Minimum Starting Voltage: 9 VDC
Nominal Power (@12 V): 14-19W
Nominal Current (@12 V): 1.16-1.58 Amp
Motor Type: Electronically commutated, brushless DC, spherical motor
Maximum Head: 15 ft (4.5 m)
Maximum Discharge: ~ 120 GPH (454 LPH)

...

So a few concerns... the DDC has massive head pressure... im hoping that the medium inside the tube will cause restrictions and not make me force a whirlpool inside my tank.

But id like to hear your thoughts on this project... is it too much? am i thinking too much bling?
No, it will not make a whirlpool in your tank. The max discharge is only 120 gph. That is a fairly low flow rate. Given the higher max head pressure, it will probably fall off much less than your average impeller pump.

As for is it too much? You can't ask that question to those of use who are into the DIY aspect of the hobby. It is never too much. :


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post #5 of 7 (permalink) Old 12-07-2011, 08:51 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hoppy View Post
I would never trust acrylic for something like this, especially the threaded ports. That is one plastic that can crack when you least expect it to. Are you doing this just for the fun of creating something like this?
The only other option i have is using brass nickle plated barb.
Which i dont think i can really use because i want it on a shrimp tank.

i could soak the barbs in water and leave it there for a week and see if i get any metal leeching out as a test.. i do trust the nickle plating on the attachments i have... but i wanted to leave all the metals out if possible.

These ghost fittings are somewhat durable.. as long as i dont use it as a hammer or kick it around or put unneeded force on them.

I can also get poly fittings... but it would look kinda funny as well.
Last course of action for me if all fails is to get a 1/2ID or SS tube which i can source.. a small one and just Silicon it to the pump head + bottom attachment.

And no im making it to make a nice Shrimp tank... lol...
I have the rimless... gonna copy Liam's undergravel, and i was intending on using that complex as the pump.

Seeing how shirmps dont require a super filter... i wanted something that more looked nice.

Quote:
Originally Posted by tzen View Post
No, it will not make a whirlpool in your tank. The max discharge is only 120 gph. That is a fairly low flow rate. Given the higher max head pressure, it will probably fall off much less than your average impeller pump.
thought about this too, but the head pressure on this DDC vs a regular pump is almost by a factor of 3x!

Basically its a little giant in headpressure with a GPH of a Rio... :X

Anyhow going to keep the tubing to 13mm inside diamter.. or 1/2ID.
Waiting for ehiem substrat pro, and some other stuff to fill in the tube, as well as some blue sponge material as a course filter.

If im lucky i should have all the parts by friday and i can do a run test on it.

Quote:
Originally Posted by jedimasterben View Post
Jeez, bro, mixing two different hobbies together!

What size tank is this going on?
a 10 gal rimless... and i will use colder high flow no spill Plastic QDC's to make maintenance easier.


I am mainly doing this because i have all these parts just laying around in a box from my other hobby which sits unused... and i need a filter.
if you guys saw the LC toys i have that sits there, you'll think good lord... what has he been doing...

This is the spare fittings i have alone... and its actually bigger as this is an old picture.
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post #6 of 7 (permalink) Old 12-08-2011, 03:56 AM Thread Starter
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So i got some progress putting everything together...

Hoppy i decided to go this route for the base since u gave me some concern..
I took this Poly fitting:


and screwed it the other way so the threads came out.


Then i attached an Oring to couple the middle and seal it good.


I vac tested the unit and it holds seal... so i chopped off the barb end and now it looks like this:


And then attached it to the pump:


So now i have a coupler tied and a oring sandwitched between it for a seal.

Look good hoppy?
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post #7 of 7 (permalink) Old 12-15-2011, 10:43 PM Thread Starter
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some updates... long over due...

it leaked... like hoppy said it would.. lol..

mental note.. hoppy is always correct.

I am going with my plated fittings.. i decided to run it in its own closed loop, and i will test for copper inside the res.

After a week if 0 copper comes out... i think i can call it safe.

But i have 2 tests controls to see if it will leach metals into the system, and i will test it ever 3 days...

The first test control is just the fitting inside distilled h2o.... since distilled is aggressive, it the system does leech metals, the distilled should pick it up right away.


The second control is the actual filter running... i will run it for about a week, and test the water inside the res for metals being leeched as well... the water inside is distilled as well, for the aggressive nature:


my fingers are crossed nothing gets leeched into the system... if it does... well, im off to get another sunsun...
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