I believe they mean the beads in the corners only. The thin layer between the glass is what's doing all the work, I wouldn't touch that. I have been removing the corner beads forever and do not replace them with new silicone, people I know think I'm stupid, they just can't understand how silicone works no matter how many times I explain tensile and shear force to them.
Personally I wouldn't leave it out unless I knew what was used originally, but that's just me. If cheaper silicone is used I'm sure it adds a bit of strength to the seam as a whole, although I understand it the shear force that is critical. If a good product is used in the first place they don't need the corner bead.
also I would try doing a beananimal overflow if at all posible, witnessed one, the guy who had it tried to cause a flood but he was unable to even cause one without clogging the pipes which is easy to avoid also, not to mention i couldnt even here moving water...
I will be going beananimal for sure. My system will be slightly different but the basic idea is the same. I will be keeping the water level quite high in the box to minimize turbulence. I will be running a co2 system and want to keep the gassing off down.
You're right, I didn't know what you meant. Or that there were people insane (in a the meaning of the term) enough to cut slots in a glass tank.
You know... I agree with you completely. It's totally nuts, but I think I might be crazy enough to try it. I think if I set it up properly I could pull it off.
This doesn't really support my cause, but today I took a POS dremel tool (a cheap copy brand) and a crap diamond coated cutting tool from one of those cheap multi kits and tried cutting a chunk out of a tank. It was ancient and all beat up so I'm tearing it apart anyway. It had 1/4 glass and I got about 1cm in from the edge before I snapped a piece off. I made a few more cuts before packing it up. Even for a garbage tool and bit it cut easily. I think the reason I chipped the tank was because I was free-handing it and testing out how much pressure and rpm worked best. I was really hammering on it. If I get a rotorzip and a template I think it would work okay. I might also explore using a rotor with a special bit.
Yes, leave the glass stuck together, but replace all the silicone inside the tank. Doing just the sides is asking for leak later.
As for the post later about cutting out the inside silicone and not replacing it, the poster is braver about water than I am.
What do you mean by "doing just the sides is asking for leak later"? I'm not following that bit. I'm only going to do the inside corners.
In all seriousness, what do you think about cutting the slot/ weir into the tank.