How to adhere Mylar to a sheet of galvanized steel? - The Planted Tank Forum
 
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post #1 of 14 (permalink) Old 07-16-2011, 06:28 AM Thread Starter
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Smile How to adhere Mylar to a sheet of galvanized steel?

We are trying to build a parabolic solar water heater and have a sheet of galvanized steel 10 feet by 40" which we are trying to cover with a single sheet of Mylar metalized sheeting (.002). We have tried several things: soap solution and plain water. We have written to 3M but they haven't gotten back to us.

Do you have any suggestions as to what inexpensive adhesive we might use?

Obviously you probably understand that we need something which does not have disolved solids and which is fairly slow to set so that we can have time to position the sheet on the galvanized steel.

Have a great evening and hope you can lend a hand!

Last edited by frazelle09; 07-16-2011 at 06:29 AM. Reason: correct spelling
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post #2 of 14 (permalink) Old 07-16-2011, 07:44 AM
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I've used spray glue before to affix mylar to the inside of a hood, but it sets up rather quickly
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post #3 of 14 (permalink) Old 07-16-2011, 08:06 AM
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Use a long drying epoxy. Several hours drying time.

Sand the surface, Make the surface rough, Apply epoxy after mixing it well. Two part resin/hardener.

Start from the center squeegee it out to the ends.

But really you might be better of getting really good buffing compound and buffing the crap out of it. It should turn to a mirror like this.

You might find better info on some optics forum as well instead of a planted tank site
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post #4 of 14 (permalink) Old 07-16-2011, 11:12 AM
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http://www.thistothat.com/

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post #5 of 14 (permalink) Old 07-16-2011, 12:04 PM
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why not use some rivets? all the "curing" time youll ever need...and instant results


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post #6 of 14 (permalink) Old 07-16-2011, 01:03 PM
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I don't think rivets would work well on something as delicate as mylar ....
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post #7 of 14 (permalink) Old 07-16-2011, 02:59 PM
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Ahh, this is tricky. My initial thought was to use static electricity. Rub the mylar with a cloth and attach but it'll eventually wear off.

You can use adhesives like double sides tape or aerosol spray adhesive like super77. The problem with this is overtime with a lot of heat, this too will come apart but this is your best bet.


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post #8 of 14 (permalink) Old 07-16-2011, 03:14 PM
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Not that I'm sure you won't get suggestions here, but why this forum? Just wondering...

I'd second trying to buff the metal to shininess. You could then spray a clear coat onto it and it should stay shiny for some time. It will probably outlast the mylar as well. It's not known for its weather resistance.

Is there any reason you're working with a single large sheet of mylar? You might have an easier time using a suitable outdoor glue (I assume this will be exposed to the elements over time) and putting the stuff on in strips. Heck, you might be able to use something like spraypaint as a glue if you apply in strips and work carefully.
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post #9 of 14 (permalink) Old 07-16-2011, 03:14 PM Thread Starter
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Wow! You guys are really creative! Who would have thought "rivets"!!!

Since our Mylar is almost 98% reflective, it doesn't get hot to the touch -- what gets hot is what it is pointed at/focussed on, which is our black-painted 1.5 inch diameter 10 foot long copper tube. It does have to withstand being outside which means that here is the Mexicali desert it needs to be able to withstand up to 120 degree (or a little bit higher sometimes) weather. But i think that most adhesives will withstand this type of temps.

We had thought about epoxy but were worried that we wouldn't be able to squeege it out smooth enough. As it is, even out soap solution has spots where there are bubbles. Hmmm....

The spray glue sounds the best, but like one poster mentioned, it sets up pretty quick -- maybe we just need to find one that's slow setting.

Have a great morning!
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post #10 of 14 (permalink) Old 07-16-2011, 03:26 PM Thread Starter
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Jason, just noticied you post. Thank you very much for your thoughtful comments.

Why this forum? Well, i had been Googleing for some 4 - 5 hours (just today) and noticed a post from this forum about Mylar.

Spray paint sounds like a good solution. We're looking for something inexpensive (which is why we were so happy with the soap possibility) since we have to cover some ten square feet of surface.

Several of you have talked about buffing but from what we have found, no amount of buffing will achieve the close to 100% reflectance of Mylar.

Have a happy morning!

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"La tierra es un sólo país y la humanidad sus ciudadanos."
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post #11 of 14 (permalink) Old 07-16-2011, 04:44 PM
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I was able to get mylar to stick very well to corregated cardboard using 3M 77 spray adhesive. If you ignore the instructions and apply the mylar before the adhesive gets tacky you have lots of time to smooth it out. But air bubbles are very hard to avoid however you do it. (I was making a solar cooker at that time - worked great, too)

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post #12 of 14 (permalink) Old 07-16-2011, 08:06 PM
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Why not just use flat white paint? No buffing or gluing needed.
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post #13 of 14 (permalink) Old 07-16-2011, 09:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by larams67 View Post
Why not just use flat white paint? No buffing or gluing needed.
The use the OP is referring to requires specular reflection, so it can be focused onto the black tube in the middle. White paint gives diffuse reflection, that doesn't focus at all, or at least not nearly enough for that use.

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post #14 of 14 (permalink) Old 07-17-2011, 03:00 AM
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The solution for next time - is Solatube extension sections.
Yes, they are a little expensive, but they are perfect for the DIYer.

Here is a video of someone converting a 'free' TV dish.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q90i3...eature=related
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