how to suspend a light unit - The Planted Tank Forum
 
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post #1 of 13 (permalink) Old 07-04-2011, 01:00 PM Thread Starter
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how to suspend a light unit

i need to suspend my light unit from the celing, havent a clue how to do this. I was going to get some cable, or chain, from the diy store. but dont know how to fix to the ceiling.

thanks for any replies

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post #2 of 13 (permalink) Old 07-04-2011, 01:53 PM
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Hardware stores sell anchor hanger for drywall. Or if there is an actual wood truss/stud in the ceiling exactly above that would work too.


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post #3 of 13 (permalink) Old 07-04-2011, 02:41 PM Thread Starter
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theres no stud where the tank is, im still unsure how to do it

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post #4 of 13 (permalink) Old 07-04-2011, 03:23 PM
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there are anchors available, but i wouldnt hang a light over a tank unless it was in a stud...

perhaps try a shelf type mount?


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post #5 of 13 (permalink) Old 07-04-2011, 03:38 PM
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You can usually screw a board across two studs, paint it to match the ceiling and attach the hangers to that. It might take two boards, but they don't have to be very large - 1 x 3 is going to work as well as anything bigger.

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post #6 of 13 (permalink) Old 07-04-2011, 05:47 PM Thread Starter
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do youn know how to find the studs?

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post #7 of 13 (permalink) Old 07-04-2011, 06:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by luke20037 View Post
do youn know how to find the studs?
Easy: Use a "stud finder"

Actually, the horizontal boards to which the ceiling is attached are called joists, not studs, making them much easier to find

http://tinyurl.com/3cjan2c But, the one I use is just a magnet hanging on a string. You swing it back and forth until it attaches itself to a nail holding the dry wall panel to the stud. It doesn't work well on the ceiling. I rely on the poor workmanship in many houses - I can see the dimples where the nails are if the light is from the side. Now that I have a couple of spare rare earth disc magnets I think I would just slide one across the ceiling until it attaches to a nail head. Then find another one and you either have a single joist running between the nails, which are about a foot or less apart, or two parallel joists, in which case the nails are 16 inches apart.

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post #8 of 13 (permalink) Old 07-04-2011, 07:22 PM
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If youre ceiling isnt textured then you can probably see the screw holes, especially if you get up on a ladder. If its textured with popcorn or something then youll need a stud finder.

The easiest way to do it if youre going to be attaching a board to the celing like Hoppy suggested is to go ahead and cut the board to the size you want, then hold it against the ceiling in the location that you want it, and then outline the board. The take the board down and use a screw or nail to find the studs. Start at one end of your outline(make sure that youre inside the outline) and run a screw into the ceiling every inch or so until you find a stud. Once you find a stud simply measure 16 inches over from it and there should be another one(its best to run a screw in to be sure because some old houses run joists at 20-24" on center). Then measure from the outside of your outline to the joists and transfer those measurements to the board. Go ahead and start the screws into the board to make attaching it a little easier. Then put the board on the ceiling according to your outline and run the screws in. If the board is atleast 1" thick and spans atleast two joists then it should be more than enough to hold basically any fixture that a hobbyist will be hanging. Make sure to attach it to any joist that the board spans in order to avoid any sagging. Dont worry about putting a bunch of holes in your ceiling while trying to find a joist. If you keep it within the outline of your board then none of the holes will be visible once the board is attached to the ceiling.
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post #9 of 13 (permalink) Old 07-05-2011, 06:43 AM Thread Starter
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thanks for the replies guys

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post #10 of 13 (permalink) Old 07-05-2011, 07:13 AM
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I had this issue a week ago. Because I didn't want to deal with the piping or insulation along the ceiling (it's a basement workshop), I strolled around Lowe's for an hour until I came upon the outdoors section, where I found 15" plant hangers. As I was looking for a solution to a dim workbench space, this was perfect. I mounted them on the wall in front of the bench, several feet above my head, into studs. Ideal.
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post #11 of 13 (permalink) Old 07-05-2011, 08:20 AM Thread Starter
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thats an awsome idea, might do that

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post #12 of 13 (permalink) Old 07-05-2011, 07:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kevmo911 View Post
I had this issue a week ago. Because I didn't want to deal with the piping or insulation along the ceiling (it's a basement workshop), I strolled around Lowe's for an hour until I came upon the outdoors section, where I found 15" plant hangers. As I was looking for a solution to a dim workbench space, this was perfect. I mounted them on the wall in front of the bench, several feet above my head, into studs. Ideal.
I had basically the same setup holding up a huge light in the garage of the house i used to live in. The only difference is that i used 18" shelf brackets instead of plant hangers. It worked greatfor the 2 years i used it, and im sure its still working great 5 years later.
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post #13 of 13 (permalink) Old 07-05-2011, 09:25 PM
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Try this

I just bent copper tube (conduit is cheaper and bends better, I already have replacements coming) with a cheap $30 tube bender from home depot, I then cut slots in the end of the tube so I could put D rings init an soldered the caps on, you could just glue them on as well, when I replace these with conduit I will paint them black. I then just attached them to the stand with the hangers they use to hold them to studs with, really easy and I like the look..
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