changing a wet-dry - The Planted Tank Forum
 
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post #1 of 8 (permalink) Old 01-23-2005, 01:46 PM Thread Starter
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Thumbs down changing a wet-dry

will i have a wet-dry an i would like to eather chang over to a sump or remove the bio balls an fill that section up with sponge that is use for pond filtering, will this still be consider a wet-dry, how does a sump work, i would have to remove the drip plate would i have to run a pvc closer to the bottom of the tank and will a ball vale be use to control the water flow comeing in and the skimmer box sould i replace the hose to a smaller size to the tank to reduce the air mix. i have now is a 250 mag drive pump any ideas would be nice , or last but not least just keep it a wet-dry
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post #2 of 8 (permalink) Old 01-23-2005, 05:53 PM
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inkslinger:

For a planted tank it looks like you have the right idea. Remove the bio-balls (or submerge them) and increase the water level. Removing the drip plate and building new PVC is useful for controlling noise. On my overflow box I use a modified Durso standpipe with no pre-filter so I could/would never put a ball valve between the sump and box (recommended to control noise, use Durso instead) as some leaf or snail would be sure to plug it. On the tank return you might be OK if you find the flow to be too great. Just make sure the pump can handle the head and reduced backpressure.

Other Tips: Drill a small hole in the return line at or above the water line so the tank does not back-siphon. Make sure the heater is below the minimum water level your pump can pull so you do not fry it.

Any chance you can run your next post through a spell checker?

Moved to Tucson.
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post #3 of 8 (permalink) Old 01-30-2005, 01:02 PM Thread Starter
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thanks blueram i did find a spell checker, but i didn't think a durso would fit in a overflow box do you have a pic of yours, my return is find i ran it for a year and it has the hole drill just under the water line for power outage i have even tested it before i install it into the system
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post #4 of 8 (permalink) Old 01-31-2005, 04:19 AM
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Thanks for checking your post. Make it much easier to determine what is being asked. On the durso site look at the modified stockman link.

I posted pictures on this thread:

https://www.plantedtank.net/forums/sh...ad.php?t=12568

Moved to Tucson.
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post #5 of 8 (permalink) Old 02-01-2005, 09:26 PM Thread Starter
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blueram ,did you use clear hose from your box to the sump or pvc , and i could not make out the air hole on the standpipe is it on the side, did you drilled holes on the standpipe for the drainage and now for the sump , do you have to keep it below the water , do you use any kine of filter for you tank
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post #6 of 8 (permalink) Old 02-01-2005, 09:57 PM
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First the corrections: My first post should say Just make sure the pump can handle the head and 'increased' back pressure.

So the water flow is tank-internal basket-U tube-half wall-standpipe (hole is visible in the side of the cap and adjustable, holes underneath 'collar' for water flow not shown)-PVC under bulkhead-clear tube over PVC-~24" clear tube-Clear tube over PVC-"P" trap (look under your sink)-vertical drop in PVC-45* drop in PVC with upper tube to vent-lower tube for water-sump-sponge filter-power head-return line-tank.

The sump is kept ~3/5 full and is growing nice plants. Only filter is a sponge prefilter for aquaclear power heads.

Moved to Tucson.
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post #7 of 8 (permalink) Old 02-02-2005, 06:00 PM Thread Starter
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i had ran my mag pump for years as a normal wet-dry with a 3/4 hose return so i know that is ok for my setup, what is the p- trap and is that bulit with pvc and the 45* does this work for something , i will be use my old wet-dry . my elbow [90*] is on the lid, now i'm going to take the drip plate and the bio-balls out and replace with sponge fillter, now from the elbow on the lid should i run a small pvc pipe to go just under the water line to advoid degassing, i'm hooking up diy co2 reactor on the return line and my diy spary bar just 1/2in under the water level
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post #8 of 8 (permalink) Old 02-02-2005, 07:07 PM
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The Durso/'P' trap are for keeping noise down. Same with the PVC inside the sump. I kept adding and subtracting until the noise went way. I do not run a prefilter on the standpipe so any food/stuff gets sucked directly to the sump for the sump fish to chew on. If you go this route make sure you leave a bit of room in the sump. (ie no fish on drip plate...)

There is a thread on this forum from someone who sucked the contents of the DIY into the tank using a reactor (on the overflow side) so I would would say DIY=ladder (in the sump) or powehead reactor. Compressed CO2=in line reactor.

Moved to Tucson.
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