LED overkill for a 23" cube tank. - The Planted Tank Forum
 
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post #1 of 13 (permalink) Old 03-21-2011, 04:56 AM Thread Starter
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LED overkill for a 23" cube tank.

I have a crazy stash of LED sizes, colors, and styles that I am taking to UNC Wilmington soon for spectral analysis and PAR measurements. When done, they are going over my 23" cube when I set it up.


This is completely experimental, is total overkill, is overcomplicated, and will be totally blinged out with some nice digital panel meters to tell me what the drive current is set at; mounted on the canopy.

This could be done in all whites, just as easily, very nice looking, and simpler. But. Why not try something odd? If I have the LEDs, why not give it a shot?


My goal is to have these set so that I can change the overall color temp and look of the tank at the twist of a knob.

There will be 4 strings of LEDs (4 drivers). All LEDs mounted on a 7X12 heatsink, fan cooled. All LEDs will be dimmable.

Here is the arrangement.



String #1:BLUES 8 royal blues (XRE) and 4 cyans (Rebels). This will give me incredible control over the color temp of the tank. Likely to run them very low, maybe 200mA.

String #2: WHITES. 8 Neutral whites (XPG), and two 10-watt Bridgelux 402's (5600k). These are the main lighting. Likely drive current, 500-700mA. These LEDs chosen for their efficiency and color rendering.

String #3: DAWN/DUSK. 1 huge 20-watt, 15,000K white (Satistronics). 8 Cool white (XPG) and two red (XPE). These were chosen to produce that lovely reddish-purple-white look that a natural sunrise/sunset produces. Likely run at a low current, maybe 200mA.

String #4: Moonlights. Four cool white (XRE) that will be run at a very low current, likely 50-60mA, which is the minimum current that I've been able to drive them at. Haven't yet decided what driver I'll use, maybe a dimmable buckpuck. Open to suggestions.



Don't be fooled by the amount of blue I have: I will actually be getting about 4 times more white light since I'm driving the dawn/dusk string at the same drive current (mostly white) and driving the white string much higher.


Timing:
Moonlights will run 24/7.

Dawn/Dusk will come on at 7am.

Blues and Whites will come on at 11am.

Blues and whites off at 8pm.

Dawn/Dusk off at 10pm.



Pics to come when I'm able.... got midterms I'm supposed to be studying for right now.
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post #2 of 13 (permalink) Old 03-21-2011, 03:49 PM
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I am a fan of just a single or double source of moonlight. It gives a nice shimmer effect that way.
Otherwise, way to go on making things complicated!


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post #3 of 13 (permalink) Old 03-21-2011, 04:36 PM Thread Starter
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Otherwise, way to go on making things complicated!
Lol, I know it's overdone. But I have them around because of what we're doing with spectral analysis, and since they are all dimmable.... and since I haven't seen many people use royal blues, cyans, reds, or 15,000K whites on any planted tank, I figured I'd give it a shot. I can always desolder them and swap them out for whites if it looks disco-inferno.

I'm thinking the cyans will do much for bringing out some very interesting colors.
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post #4 of 13 (permalink) Old 03-21-2011, 05:03 PM
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When you space the different color LEDs far apart, you will really get pronounced multi-color shadows, which is not really your goal. Espically since you envision not running the coloreds at max current, I suggest putting them very close together so there is better blending of colors.


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post #5 of 13 (permalink) Old 03-21-2011, 09:28 PM Thread Starter
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I've seen the multicolored shadows even on the AquaIlluminations SOL units that have extremely tight spacing for each 3-up star.

Optics are what also contributes much to color shadows being pronounced, and on the cyans/reds I won't be using optics. The blues/whites will have 60 degree optics, but the whole think will probably sit 15" over the water surface.
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post #6 of 13 (permalink) Old 05-04-2011, 05:45 PM
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I'm thinking the cyans will do much for bringing out some very interesting colors.
That should help fill in the cyan dip in the white LEDs.

BTW how did this project turn out?

Steve


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post #7 of 13 (permalink) Old 05-04-2011, 06:05 PM
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We need to start an LED club lol!

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post #8 of 13 (permalink) Old 05-04-2011, 08:58 PM Thread Starter
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That should help fill in the cyan dip in the white LEDs.

BTW how did this project turn out?
Oh she's still incubating lol.

The LEDs I am going to use on it were the same ones (mostly) that I used last week for spectral analysis at UNC Wilmington. I couldn't build the array until the analysis was done at the end of this semester.


Now that it's done, I have 3 weeks of finals for my own grad work (not at UNC Wilmington) and then I can build the stand. I have already build the canopy and a huge swing-arm from plywood and door hinges, so that I can just shove the canopy out of the way when I want to work in the tank.
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post #9 of 13 (permalink) Old 06-25-2011, 02:41 AM Thread Starter
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post #10 of 13 (permalink) Old 06-25-2011, 03:09 AM
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we need to start an led club lol!
yes!


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post #11 of 13 (permalink) Old 06-25-2011, 03:15 AM Thread Starter
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I'll start a post to see if anyone can make a DIY-LED graphic/GIF file, that would be awesome. I don't know if we can put GIF files in our signatures though....
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post #13 of 13 (permalink) Old 06-25-2011, 06:23 AM
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I'll start a post to see if anyone can make a DIY-LED graphic/GIF file, that would be awesome. I don't know if we can put GIF files in our signatures though....
Freeware IrFanView will save into several file types including .jpg which is OK.

Steve


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