diy led lighting assistance needed - The Planted Tank Forum
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post #1 of 70 (permalink) Old 07-19-2020, 02:20 PM Thread Starter
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Lightbulb diy led lighting assistance needed

Hi all
My first attempt do build a diy led light for planted aquarium 120cm /60/45 total 300 liter
I search the net for info and more i read more got confused
I know i want to use cree leds. Cool /warm white, some red and blue also. And use a dimmer
Any guidance will be Welcome.
Thank you
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post #2 of 70 (permalink) Old 07-19-2020, 07:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alfred3 View Post
Hi all
My first attempt do build a diy led light for planted aquarium 120cm /60/45 total 300 liter
I search the net for info and more i read more got confused
I know i want to use cree leds. Cool /warm white, some red and blue also. And use a dimmer
Any guidance will be Welcome.
Thank you

sounds like you aren't in the US..
Will make parts shopping a bit of a challenge.


A mini primer using a cheap Chinese controller though a small soldering modification is necessary BUT it explains the basics.
https://www.tc420.net/connecting-hig...-the-TC420.php

you can simplify things a bit using Bridgelux EB strips
https://www.digikey.com/en/product-h...series-modules

Old overly expensive DIY guide but good for the basics.
https://www.instructables.com/id/A-C...ED-Light-Unit/

"A man with a watch knows what time it is. A man with two watches is never sure"

Last edited by jeffkrol; 07-19-2020 at 10:08 PM. Reason: edit
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post #3 of 70 (permalink) Old 07-24-2020, 09:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alfred3 View Post
Hi all
My first attempt do build a diy led light for planted aquarium 120cm /60/45 total 300 liter
I search the net for info and more i read more got confused
I know i want to use cree leds. Cool /warm white, some red and blue also. And use a dimmer
Any guidance will be Welcome.
Thank you
If you use the XML T6, You will need between 30-40. I prefer to run the LED at 50% of rated current as it will make them last longer. Heat produced is lesser and manageable. Please purchase a few more LED's than you need; eventually one or two may fail and if you have spares its faster to fix.

Use Cool white LED's

Also add about 10 - 20 full spectrum Plant grow LED chips instead of Blue's and Red's

Try using LED"s that are rated at the same current. This will simplify the build as you will be able to use the same LED driver.

What type of heat sink will you use?

This is a over simplification... If you want to cool LED's Passively the heat sink needs about 20 square inches of surface per watt of energy *used* by LED. This is the ideal case. You can get away with 6 square inches of open surface area per watt for LED's. If the surface area to dissipate heat is lesser than this you will need fans.

For example if the energy used by all your LED's is 100 watts you need a heat sink that has atleast 600 square inches of surface area. here the wattage depends upon the current supplied. You can run a 10W Led at 2W by supplying 600mA instead of 2900mA of current. So since the energy used is less you can use a smaller heat sink.

Use some good thermal grease/Paste when mounting the LED's.

This really is a complex topic. Hope this helps. If you have any specific queries, do ask.
n70me and alfred3 like this.

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post #4 of 70 (permalink) Old 08-02-2020, 05:29 AM Thread Starter
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ok
after reading some more on the web i have more question
I will use cree xml 2 leds 3/5 w each and my target is to achieve 70ó80. How can i calculate / figure how many units of led to use?
Aquarium dimensions 120 cm long and 60cm high.
Any guidance will be appreciated.
https://www.cree.com/led-components/.../XLampXML2.pdf

when soidering the led cubs do i need to made a 2-3 cm gap between them?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Preeths View Post
If you use the XML T6, You will need between 30-40. I prefer to run the LED at 50% of rated current as it will make them last longer. Heat produced is lesser and manageable. Please purchase a few more LED's than you need; eventually one or two may fail and if you have spares its faster to fix.

Use Cool white LED's

Also add about 10 - 20 full spectrum Plant grow LED chips instead of Blue's and Red's

Try using LED"s that are rated at the same current. This will simplify the build as you will be able to use the same LED driver.

What type of heat sink will you use?

This is a over simplification... If you want to cool LED's Passively the heat sink needs about 20 square inches of surface per watt of energy *used* by LED. This is the ideal case. You can get away with 6 square inches of open surface area per watt for LED's. If the surface area to dissipate heat is lesser than this you will need fans.

For example if the energy used by all your LED's is 100 watts you need a heat sink that has atleast 600 square inches of surface area. here the wattage depends upon the current supplied. You can run a 10W Led at 2W by supplying 600mA instead of 2900mA of current. So since the energy used is less you can use a smaller heat sink.

Use some good thermal grease/Paste when mounting the LED's.

This really is a complex topic. Hope this helps. If you have any specific queries, do ask.
Hi Preeths
thank you for your informing replay . i didn't find full spectrum led only big ones about 100w
can you please share a direct link ? about the heat sink i want to use the body of my old T5 light

Last edited by Darkblade48; 08-05-2020 at 10:46 PM. Reason: Please use the edit function for back to back posts to keep threads cleaner
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post #5 of 70 (permalink) Old 08-03-2020, 07:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alfred3 View Post
Hi Preeths
thank you for your informing replay . i didn't find full spectrum led only big ones about 100w
can you please share a direct link ? about the heat sink i want to use the body of my old T5 light
You really need to use good aluminium heat sinks. A T5 body will not work if you are using LED's with a power rating of 3w or higher. te LED will over heat and get damaged.

Where are you located?

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post #6 of 70 (permalink) Old 08-04-2020, 03:06 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Preeths View Post
You really need to use good aluminium heat sinks. A T5 body will not work if you are using LED's with a power rating of 3w or higher. te LED will over heat and get damaged.

Where are you located?
israel .but i don't have problem to order online from us especially mouser.

i didn't find full spectrum led only big ones about 100w
can you please share a direct link ?

i sent you pm did you saw it ?
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post #7 of 70 (permalink) Old 08-04-2020, 04:49 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alfred3 View Post
israel .but i don't have problem to order online from us especially mouser.

i didn't find full spectrum led only big ones about 100w
can you please share a direct link ?

i sent you pm did you saw it ?
What ,exactly are you asking for?


One chip I recommmend for 6500k is Luxeon "fresh fish"..
6500k, 95 CRI per cust. service and my own observation..
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail...RoCEgS2g%3D%3D
At about 35V andf 500mA (recommended though w/ proper cooling you can go higher) 17.5Watts each

On the warm end Luxeon "crisp white"..3000k w/ some violet diodes thrown in for good measure..
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail...jivgkcxEfCvrNh
https://www.digikey.com/product-deta...1-5-ND/6099984
90 CRI 3000K, 35V @ 300mA = 10.5W each.

Only catch is each COB will require a driver since the required voltage doesn't lend itself to series applications well.
Mouser or digikey won't have "star type" 3W-ers and colored COB's are almost impossible to find.




Some other suggestions would be bridgelux EB strips.
There are some high CRI Bridgelux Thrive cobs as well..
do a search by part number .

https://www.bridgelux.com/sites/defa...%20Rev%20A.pdf

BXRE-65S2001-C-74
dirt cheap equal and arguably better than the "fresh fish"
https://www.digikey.com/product-deta...74-ND/11203639
6500k 2 types of blue emitters.. Nice balanced full spectrum.

Prob a dozen more COB's that will work well. Some cheaper some not.

How much on building LEd lights do you know?

"A man with a watch knows what time it is. A man with two watches is never sure"

Last edited by jeffkrol; 08-04-2020 at 05:21 AM. Reason: edit
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post #8 of 70 (permalink) Old 08-04-2020, 01:10 PM Thread Starter
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Hi Jeffkrol

i don't think i want to use 10w or more leds. i intend to use 5w each max, my aim is replicate the commercial brands like fluval Chihiros and so ,an amount of variable different colors/lumens .

i am going to use cree leds xml 2 or similar series with dimmers and in the future wifi controlled . it will be used in a high tech co2 .

regarding my diy experience i have some but in building LEd lights this is my first .every one need to start some where
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post #9 of 70 (permalink) Old 08-04-2020, 05:13 PM
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These are the ones i used for grow light:

https://www.amazon.de/Delaman-Spectr...c=1&th=1&psc=1

I also used Cree XML T6 cool daylight.

You can use the meanwell LCM 60 driver. This comes with inbuilt constant current power supply, You can set the voltage and current depending on the requirement. It also has dimming function inbuilt and a separate 12V 50mA connection for a fan. There are a few you tube video's on how to use this.

IMHO this is by far the best driver and you dont need anything else for dimming or running a fan.

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post #10 of 70 (permalink) Old 08-04-2020, 07:31 PM
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It will depend on what protocol ones intended controller uses.

"A man with a watch knows what time it is. A man with two watches is never sure"
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post #11 of 70 (permalink) Old 08-04-2020, 08:53 PM
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Cree XM-L is poo, that is all...

Thrive 6500K and 5000K with the right mixing will get you 6000K @ 100CRI. Nothing else comes close if you like that temp. Also, anything above the S1001-C is absolute overkill in a planted tank. S1001-C's are 3 bucks a pop and even running at 5W they put out way too much light for a single point source. Better to buy multiples and put it in a thin light bar. On a 60cm light bar 6x S1001-C's on a dirt cheap $8 APC-35-350 will put 100 PAR 60cm down in air so total overkill. 2 groups of 3 wired in series and then parallel so 100V per group with each cob getting a measly 175ma.

Last edited by gus6464; 08-04-2020 at 09:06 PM. Reason: ed
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post #12 of 70 (permalink) Old 08-05-2020, 06:15 PM
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Excuse the Algae in the tank. This was from 2017 when I made the DIY lights for my self.

60X30X36 cm tank.

The tank had Pressurized CO2 1.5 BPS through out. EI Dosing with weekly 50% water change. Lights on from 13:00 till 17:00 then again from 18:00 till 22:00 daily on a timer.

The first Picture is with White + Blue+RED 1W LED's

The second picture is of the tank with these LED's. Now One advantage of using RED and Blue LED, more spectrum for the plants to grow .... or so i assumed. There was a different advantage to this...

Fishes that were red and Blue looked really good. Adding LED's to match the color of the fish you put in the tank will make then look really good. As long as you have that spectrum the fish will look good. Just 1-2 LED to match what ever color of the fish is enough in a small tank. You will need more for a larger tank.

The third Picture is of the DIY setup for plant grow LEDs 20X3w LED's

The Tank with Grow LED's - looking at the tank with this light made me nauseous. I dont know if its just me or it affects other people the same way.

The last pictures is of the tank under 10 CREE XML T6 driven at 1500 mA (50W)

The tank with the Algae mostly cleaned... not gone.

Now Mostly I use about 30% Plant Grow LED, 70% Cool Daylight LED In my fixtures. I also use the sticky LED tape with different coloured LEDs only to ensure my fish look good.

My suggestion is to use a combination Of grow light and cool daylight. the Source and brand can be specific to what is easily available for purchase by you.

Bump: One other Note... to prevent thermal runaway, all my LED's were always connected in series. I never used a series and parallel combination. This kept the whole setup rather simple to build. The disadvantage of this was it was difficult to find the correct driver to match the LED's required current and voltage(in series)
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post #13 of 70 (permalink) Old 08-05-2020, 06:35 PM
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Thermal runaway is a thing that happens when you use diodes with terrible binning (ie: Cree). Pretty much every planted light on the market that's not a puck with a million color channels uses a series-parallel config. It's not cost effective otherwise.
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post #14 of 70 (permalink) Old 08-07-2020, 03:00 PM Thread Starter
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After very vise advices here I decided to switch to Bridgelux BXRE-65S1001-C-74
BXRE-50S1001-C-74 . 6500/5000 k 2:1 ratio, how many units I will be need total for my 120 cm tank
And what driver and power supply will be suitable , I heard good thing of mean well products
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post #15 of 70 (permalink) Old 08-07-2020, 03:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alfred3 View Post
After very vise advices here I decided to switch to Bridgelux BXRE-65S1001-C-74
BXRE-50S1001-C-74 . 6500/5000 k 2:1 ratio, how many units I will be need total for my 120 cm tank
And what driver and power supply will be suitable , I heard good thing of mean well products

First thing, though your choices are just fine, going only as low as 5000k doesn't give a realistic sunset/sunrise IF that matters.
Lower k good whites also have a better red component. There is a risk of personally not using them as much (lower current)

as you would diodes at 5000K.


Next drivers will depend on if you plan on controlling them and what control..


Third if you use 1w/gallon 300L =80gal 80W evenly spread out over tank.
Shouldn't be a problem since 2 rows would be better than one strip..
Soo 6 of each, 2 rows of 3 pairs.
More than enough light.roughly 12x 17W = 204W.
dimming will be important.
Good thing is a single channel (either 6500k or whatever) is enough power..

In other words overkill but good for uniformity.

NOTE: WATTS is not a good predictor of output but it is use-able if one is aware of issues.


Most common system of drivers is LDD-h's (or possibly LDD-L's but w/ a caution), 5V PWM based controller and in your case 48V power supply w/ sufficient wattage.
https://www.tc420.net/connecting-hig...-the-TC420.php


Instead of strings picture one COB. BTW more than one Meanwell LDD driver on one channel in this system.
SOOO decide on controller.
You ca nadd circuitry to change a 5V PWM to say 10V analog (0-10v dimming) but just adds cost and a bit of complexity.


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