diy led lighting assistance needed - Page 4 - The Planted Tank Forum
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post #46 of 80 (permalink) Old 08-22-2020, 10:15 PM
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Originally Posted by alfred3 View Post
this is the plan to arrange the cobs

is that ok ? do i missing something?

does it will stick on the aluminium body only with the thermal paste?

the dimmer didn't arrived yet , can i connect and light the cobs without harming them?

https://ibb.co/602yjNV



Sure if your driver is OK w/ nothing on the DIM circuit...
I didn't see the usual 100% on if no signal.

But one can put a battery (less than 10V) across the dim wires as a test if it doesn't light w/out anything.

Thermal adhesive (basically heat conducting silicone) will glue the COB's fine.
There are 2 part thermal epoxies as well but personally too expensive and not much better than things like "heatsink plaster".


Thermal paste will not.
Thermal tape should but never used it.

Layout seems fine, remember each COB is in parallel, no series strings..




If you are worried you can dial the current down w/ the pot.
You can go down to approx 2.6 A which would be 2.6/10 =250mA per COB.
Best done w/ a VOM in series w/ 10A setting.



Should mention the kicker to these designs.. "IF" you have a COB fail open the remaining current gets reshuffled

i.e say 2 fail at 5.2A Bow each COB gets 5.2/8 = 650mA.. Fortunately you have to have many COB's fail before it would take out all of them in a thermal runaway.

"A man with a watch knows what time it is. A man with two watches is never sure"

Last edited by jeffkrol; 08-23-2020 at 02:34 AM. Reason: edit
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post #47 of 80 (permalink) Old 08-23-2020, 10:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alfred3 View Post
this is the plan to arrange the cobs


does it will stick on the aluminium body only with the thermal paste?


https://ibb.co/602yjNV
NO, You will need to use a screw or bolt. Use plastic or nylon washers so you don't damage the chips. Usually the COB's will have a cutout or a round hole in opposite corners for this purpose.

You can use super Glue but, its a bad option.

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post #48 of 80 (permalink) Old 08-23-2020, 11:06 PM
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Screwing..bolting is sort of preferred but plenty of people use just thermal silicone glue, myself included. In 3 years never lost one COB or had it delaminate from the sink.

I started w/ tapping and threading aluminum. Hope to never do that again ..
ONE thing... Don't push on the lens.



https://www.reddit.com/r/HandsOnComp...hout_hardware/

https://cablematic.com/en/products/s...ratures-NK098/


As a side note some have used epoxy on the sides for insurance..

another note.. IF silicone can hold an aquarium together I'm sure it can hold a teeny bit of COB on a heat sink..

"A man with a watch knows what time it is. A man with two watches is never sure"

Last edited by jeffkrol; 08-23-2020 at 11:59 PM. Reason: edit
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post #49 of 80 (permalink) Old 08-24-2020, 03:41 AM
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Buy thermal tape. 25-30mm one is all you need. Did you go with V10 or v13s?

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post #50 of 80 (permalink) Old 08-24-2020, 04:21 AM
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Originally Posted by gus6464 View Post
Buy thermal tape. 25-30mm one is all you need. Did you go with V10 or v13s?

Sent from my ONEPLUS A6013 using Tapatalk
Last I knew is they went w./ V10's..


Do you know if his driver requires a dim signal (pot,10v 10v pwm) to light?

hlg-185H


"c" series apparently doesn't need a signal.
https://rapidled.com/products/mean-well-hlg-185h-c1400b


These are almost as bad as metal halide ballast choices..
I'll stick to LDD's..

"A man with a watch knows what time it is. A man with two watches is never sure"
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post #51 of 80 (permalink) Old 08-24-2020, 04:33 AM
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ABs have built-in pot and dim output. If nothing is on the dim output then it's just 100% unless you use the internal pot. B with dim output is 100% if nothing is connected to dim signal.

Just because you don't know how to use these drivers doesn't mean they are bad. They offer multiple options depending on what you want to do. And ldds are still a terrible choice for a large number of high voltage cobs and will always be.

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post #52 of 80 (permalink) Old 08-24-2020, 05:24 AM
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Originally Posted by gus6464 View Post
ABs have built-in pot and dim output. If nothing is on the dim output then it's just 100% unless you use the internal pot. B with dim output is 100% if nothing is connected to dim signal.

Just because you don't know how to use these drivers doesn't mean they are bad. They offer multiple options depending on what you want to do. And ldds are still a terrible choice for a large number of high voltage cobs and will always be.

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I know how to use them and their ilk. Got a bunch in the basement...
spec sheet doesn't list Null =100%
I have some AC/DC Meanwell drivers that do not light unless you have a dim signal.
I just wired a 9V batt. to test them.
Last straw was when I designed a light but got "flash" (as the drivers dumped their capacitors) on some early COB's
A situation I never had w/ LDD's

AB's weren't available when I started.
It is a NICE thing and wouldn't uby any other type IF I'd ever buy one again..
Ldd's are practically thoughtless.. No need to match current, measure mA and voltage ect. Plug and play..


10V analog industry standard is err not user friendly if one goes w/ popular controllers such as the Blue fish, any Aduino based unit, Typhon, Hurricane, Storm, Storm X
Reef pi, Robotank, and Ferduino.



Best you got is expensive Apex..
Need to switch the driver off and it generally doesn't "dim to zero"


Quote:
For instance, the digital signaling from a Dali control system cannot always be translated by the driver into the appropriate lighting state thatís required. Beyond a certain level of dimming, the LEDs may simply switch off. But be pragmatic; if youíre only looking for dimming down to 50 per cent thereís no need to search for a driver that will take the lighting down to 5 per cent.

We just have to agree to disagree on this point.. I'd gladly take the extra "space" of LDD's over an all in one w/ crippled dimming and bad protocols..

I did say before that adding a 10V conversion board to switch 5(3.3) PWM to 10v analog isn't difficult but more parts, more places for beginners to err..ect.

PERSONAL Balance sheet.. LDD's win "almost" every time. COB's or light heads requiring over 2A may be the only exception........

2.6x .7" dual driver and mA adj,, What's not to love?

9.1 sq inches of space to run 10 COB's..

7.8 linear inches to run 6 cobs.. Pretty sure one could find heat sink room.

"A man with a watch knows what time it is. A man with two watches is never sure"

Last edited by jeffkrol; 08-24-2020 at 05:42 AM. Reason: edit
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post #53 of 80 (permalink) Old 08-24-2020, 05:45 AM
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DANG.. Pretty sure ALL the orig. "math" was for 10 COB's.. o/p's showing 12...
Not good.




Recalc.
12 LDDs occupy 12 sq inches approx .5" tall

10.92" sq for 6 (@2) mini drivr

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Last edited by jeffkrol; 08-24-2020 at 06:26 AM. Reason: edit
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post #54 of 80 (permalink) Old 08-24-2020, 08:09 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by gus6464 View Post
Buy thermal tape. 25-30mm one is all you need. Did you go with V10 or v13s?

Sent from my ONEPLUS A6013 using Tapatalk
i purchsed V10
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post #55 of 80 (permalink) Old 08-24-2020, 01:59 PM Thread Starter
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This is all i have to deal with..
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post #56 of 80 (permalink) Old 08-24-2020, 02:43 PM
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Qm850 is not listed as a "glue" .
You will need to somehow secure the COBs to the heat sink

Also will need to throttle the current for that size of a heat sink as far as I can tell.

5.2/12 = 433 mA per cob and approx. 18watts. Suggest not going above 10w till you see how hot they get.

"A man with a watch knows what time it is. A man with two watches is never sure"
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post #57 of 80 (permalink) Old 08-24-2020, 03:28 PM Thread Starter
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post #58 of 80 (permalink) Old 08-24-2020, 06:14 PM
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AFAICT ..no
Pad def no

Quote:
they are non-stick and can be easily removed and repositioned. Install the Pad yourself at home in a matter of minutes




Stuff like this:
https://www.amazon.com/Ceatech-Therm...ronics&sr=1-11
https://www.amazon.com/Arctic-Alumin...tronics&sr=1-6
https://www.amazon.com/Conductive-Si...tronics&sr=1-4
https://www.amazon.com/Thermal-Condu...tronics&sr=1-5

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post #59 of 80 (permalink) Old 08-24-2020, 06:51 PM
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Originally Posted by Preeths View Post
When i built my first DIY led panel I used the cheapest material available, not the most reliable. I understood that this would be a learning process and I did not want to invest too much. Once I built and used it for a few weeks I got more confidence to buy better Quality stuff because I know I would not mess it up. The "FIRST" time is always the hardest

Start with a simple design. Just on and off should be good. Once you figure that out, add dimming or other features as you like. Doing everything at once, the first time will be difficult and confusing.

Just out of curiosity, do you recall an estimate of what your fist light as well as your more recent lights cost in supplies? I've been interested in building my own lights but don't have a good frame of reference for the total cost
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post #60 of 80 (permalink) Old 08-24-2020, 07:11 PM
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Just out of curiosity, do you recall an estimate of what your fist light as well as your more recent lights cost in supplies? I've been interested in building my own lights but don't have a good frame of reference for the total cost
Things change all the time..
Newer COB's are much cheaper than old 3w stars on an available watt basis.

Things that don't change.. and based on "my" recommendation of drivers:
Meanwell LDD drivers ($6-9US) running a 48V power supply (45V effective) and "average" 3.7V cheap leds
12 "3W" stars = 36W

Say about $8 per 36W

48V power supplies run anywhere from $12 (cheap chinese)to $30(Meanwell)
$33.49 for 48V 350Watts available.

LED's can run 10 for $1(3W evil bay) to $3-$6(StevesLED). Quality COB's can cost $1/Watt

To be honest the most expensive parts are aluminum and controllers..
Controllers ($25->$100)

For "fancy".. $50/ft
https://www.ledsupply.com/led-heatsi...d-heatsink-kit.

Sorry don't really consider "little bits" like wire, screws, heat sink compound but does add cost to the project.

You also can dd a driver circuit board for simplicity though Meanwell-HW's have wires so no need for a fancy board.

Off the cuff.. you can save "some" money (as long as you don't need to buy meters, soldering irons) but most go more "premium" raising costs to equal or exceed.
Thing is you get what you want..

Running 10/$10 single color diodes, ldd700-HW $7, 48v 50W $12.29, cheap aluminum bar
https://www.lowes.com/pd/Steelworks-...E&gclsrc=aw.ds
1" x 72" = $11 so $5.5 per 3ft..

$27.79 for "30Watts"... mount it as you see fit..

"A man with a watch knows what time it is. A man with two watches is never sure"

Last edited by jeffkrol; 08-24-2020 at 07:31 PM. Reason: edit
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