diy led lighting assistance needed - Page 3 - The Planted Tank Forum
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post #31 of 68 (permalink) Old 08-08-2020, 04:58 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gus6464 View Post
This is absolutely going nowhere. At the end of the day we never going to agree on lighting as while I like to go the practical route and see what sticks all you do is spout simulation data and specs.

This is the ops first build and you want to send him down the rabbit hole of complex mixes and electronics so that he will basically just forget about it and go with something practical like buying an off the shelf light.

At the end of the day sunrises, sunsets, ramps, and all this other stuff you like does nothing better for the actual matter at hand which is growing plants in a glass box filled with water. All you need is on/off and whatever look the op wants out of his lights which actually if it were up to him would be the Ada solar RGB as that is his preferred look. So that's easily accomplished with some Steve's LEDs tristars RGB in antidisco along a bar and that's it.

Sent from my ONEPLUS A6013 using Tapatalk

Nothing complicated about a 2 color light fixture..The wiring diagram for the TC-420 is as simple as one can get. USE LDD-HW's (one driver one COB) and a power supply ..all simple wiring.

No need to do series/parallel arrays (granted also not hard)
Didn't even get into "Tunable COB's"..

Where did you get the ADA thing from?
Quote:
I know i want to use cree leds. Cool /warm white, some red and blue also. And use a dimmer
answered all except skipped the red and crees..

"A man with a watch knows what time it is. A man with two watches is never sure"

Last edited by jeffkrol; 08-08-2020 at 05:04 AM. Reason: edit
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post #32 of 68 (permalink) Old 08-08-2020, 05:22 AM Thread Starter
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I swear I feel like a child that see his parents arguing, I am sure that they both mean well for the child but the child is more confused .i am really appreciating your passion to help me the best way you can.
I will really appreciate if you will answer directly to this question so I can will be able to proceed some how .
1. Can I use my old t5 aluminum body for this matter? If not can what size of heatsink I need to use? 120cm like the
size of the tank ? up2me.co.il צפיה בתמונה: 46813950.jpg or smaller ?

2. Is this power supply will be suitable, if not please sent a link to the one that is suitable?
https://www.meanwell.com/Upload/PDF/...C-250-SPEC.PDF

3. I understand that the power supply and the drivers adjustable for both 110/220 v?
4. If not tc421 for dimming what the other option? I manual dimmer? can you please sent a link to a suitable one?

Please please answer exactly the questions 1.2.3….

I will appreciate if all the product links will be from digikey so I can make a quick purchase I need to proceed quickly, my old light broke down and I working with improvised light and the plant are dying
Thank you very much for all your effort and good will to assist in this project ,I hope throw this dissection more members will be learn and be wise .

alfred

Last edited by alfred3; 08-08-2020 at 06:07 AM. Reason: .
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post #33 of 68 (permalink) Old 08-08-2020, 06:13 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alfred3 View Post
1. Can I use my old t5 aluminum body for this matter? If not can what size of heatsink I need to use? 120cm like the
size of the tank ? up2me.co.il צפיה בתמונה: 46813950.jpg or smaller ?

Looks fine.. COB when spread and at the right height will only cover about 76cm linear if the sink is about 12cm (well actually to the face of the COB) off the water line.
Laying it on the tank may cause issues in the upper part of the tank.
Think of it this way.. each COB's beam angle is 120 degrees..
At 12cm from the water surface it will project a cone of light that covers a 40cm in diameter circle. Rough estimate since I'm considering it a point not a 1cm-ish disc. you want light IN the tank not outside. My preferred system is design for 100% coverage at the waters surface.

Play w/ this:

https://store.marinebeam.com/beam-angle-calculator-1/

Quote:
Originally Posted by alfred3 View Post
2. Is this power supply will be suitable, if not please sent a link to the one that is suitable?
https://www.meanwell.com/Upload/PDF/...C-250-SPEC.PDF

[/QUOTE]
LRS-350-48
INPUT POWER: 90 ~ 264VAC
https://www.digikey.com/products/en?keywords=LRS-350-48


Quote:
Originally Posted by alfred3 View Post
3. I understand that the power supply and the drivers adjustable for both 110/220 v?
See above for power supply

Get Meanwell LDD-hw's @ 500mA mA range is user defined.
1 Per COB

How hot you drive them depends on cooling.
CHECK the COB spec sheets for recommended current but I'd advise you not to go to the maximum allowed. 1/2 is a good rule of thumb.
Your call..
You can always dim them.

HW means wires so you don't need to futz w/ a circuit board but does mean you have a small black dominoe hanging off your COB.
you can thermal glue (see heatsink plaster) the LDD's onto the heat sink.



Drivers are fed the DC output of the power supply. ONE thing not mentioned yet..LDD's have "overhead" so whatever your power supply voltage is you can only get that minus 3 volts out.
For a 48V DC out you only have 45V max for the COB's Plenty in this case.
https://www.digikey.com/products/en?keywords=ldd-500hw


Quote:
Originally Posted by alfred3 View Post
4. If not tc421 for dimming what the other option? I manual dimmer? can you please sent a link to a suitable one?
Don't know of any dimmers at Digikey.
Till you sort out the dimmer thing you can find these cheap manual dimmers. Just need to solder one wire on.
Only need one per channel though not sure if one will do 6 COB's should but atm ??
see this:
Questions on dimming LDD drivers - Reef Central Online Community




Stuff like this. Sorry don't know a digikey equivalent.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07TSH6MNT...EwNjM1MTM2MzND
TkRCUTk2VjlPUSZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX2RldGFpbDImYWN0aW 9uPWNsaWNrUmVkaXJlY3QmZG9Ob3RMb2dDbGljaz10cnVl


https://www.amazon.com/Hiletgo-DC12-...867848&sr=8-37

Oh and the dimmers need to be powered. Anything between 9-24V wall wart will work. Say 250mA or more..

"A man with a watch knows what time it is. A man with two watches is never sure"

Last edited by jeffkrol; 08-08-2020 at 06:27 AM. Reason: edit
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post #34 of 68 (permalink) Old 08-09-2020, 05:10 AM
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Just an example of spacing, coverage and part placement @ 13cm off the water line.
Would like a bit better spread for the ww's (red) but it gets better deeper in the tank.
Also, technically even spacing of the COB's isn't the most ideal. Center area is much higher in PAR than the edges but
that complicates things a bit.
Actually since each puck is "independent" one can tune them to compensate though that would require 6 (cool whites only)-10 channels.

Center to center COB's are 8" apart. Approx 20cm.
Same front to back.
Used a 48 x 24" tank pattern (grey area)

Oh and prob move the LDD's a bit more to center between the COB's and possibly sideways, may be easier to wire.
Didn't feel like adj it.
There will be a lot of wires under there.
You can use CAT5-6 for the dim wires to a controller if you go seperate.
2-10 pwm wires
2 power wires (use min 20ga)

Oh ONE last thing.. If the heatsink lip is 1" deep you need the edge of the yellow COB part to be about 1 3/4" (4.4cm) in so as to not block the light..

I don't know the exact dim of your sink so just adj accordingly.

Same w/ height..you may find lowering it is better. Has to do w/ lenses and how spot size is measured..












https://biomod2016.gitlab.io/kansai/ex2-1.html

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Last edited by jeffkrol; 08-09-2020 at 05:33 AM. Reason: edit
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post #35 of 68 (permalink) Old 08-10-2020, 06:00 PM Thread Starter
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hi jeff

thank for all your effort and time . i contact today the tech support of digi key and they suggested that this

https://www.digikey.com/products/en?...866-3350-ND%20

is enough and don't needed to use this

https://www.digikey.com/products/en?keywords=ldd-500hw

and it cant be connected a dimmer ( btw i ordered the TC421 )..

Last edited by alfred3; 08-10-2020 at 06:28 PM. Reason: .
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post #36 of 68 (permalink) Old 08-10-2020, 07:54 PM
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No you still need the drivers.
Power supply does AC/DC conversion.
Led's regulate the power supply output (buck voltage regulator) to maintain a steady current.


"A man with a watch knows what time it is. A man with two watches is never sure"

Last edited by jeffkrol; 08-10-2020 at 08:40 PM. Reason: edit
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post #37 of 68 (permalink) Old 08-10-2020, 08:00 PM
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I have a question for ANYBODY - Been sleuthing the web for advice on using COB full spectrum grow light LED for aquarium. Any ideas?
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post #38 of 68 (permalink) Old 08-10-2020, 08:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fjvb76 View Post
I have a question for ANYBODY - Been sleuthing the web for advice on using COB full spectrum grow light LED for aquarium. Any ideas?

"full spectrum grow light " is an often misused term.
Does it look pink/violet?

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post #39 of 68 (permalink) Old 08-11-2020, 02:01 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alfred3 View Post
hi jeff

thank for all your effort and time . i contact today the tech support of digi key and they suggested that this

https://www.digikey.com/products/en?...866-3350-ND%20

is enough and don't needed to use this

https://www.digikey.com/products/en?keywords=ldd-500hw

and it cant be connected a dimmer ( btw i ordered the TC421 )..
Mean hlg, clg, etc are the ones that are both driver and power supply. Go to the meanwell site and look under led drivers for all your options.

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post #40 of 68 (permalink) Old 08-12-2020, 08:27 PM Thread Starter
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so all the guys in digikey insists that this power supply

https://www.digikey.com/products/en?keywords=LRS-350-48

is way more power full that needed for connecting 10-12 cobs of BXRE-65S1001-C-74-ND and will harm/burn out the leds

"Like I was saying these devices are meant to be current driven. An LED driver would be selected for its current rating. 360mA in this case for one LED"

"what I am getting at is the voltage that supply puts out is more than what the LED can handle. it wants a typical voltage of 33.7"
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post #41 of 68 (permalink) Old 08-12-2020, 08:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alfred3 View Post
so all the guys in digikey insists that this power supply

https://www.digikey.com/products/en?keywords=LRS-350-48

is way more power full that needed for connecting 10-12 cobs of BXRE-65S1001-C-74-ND and will harm/burn out the leds

"Like I was saying these devices are meant to be current driven. An LED driver would be selected for its current rating. 360mA in this case for one LED"

"what I am getting at is the voltage that supply puts out is more than what the LED can handle. it wants a typical voltage of 33.7"
Whoever you are talking with is an idiot. Sorry someone has to say it..



The LDD driver IS A VOLTAGE REGULATOR and will decrease the power supply voltage til the COB draws 500mA (which it will at a particular voltage..)
Different company SAME principal.

Quote:
Step-Down (Buck) LED Drivers

Analog Devices step-down (buck) LED drivers are ideal for applications where the input voltage is above the LED voltage, as in many automotive or industrial applications. These LED drivers offer the highest efficiency, lowest noise, and the smallest footprints. Other features include integrated Schottky diodes, accurate LED current matching, and multiple output capability.
Power supply is a DUMB device and only need to supply enough voltage and capacity (watts) to supply the led driver(s).
The Meanwell LDD is a "smart" device that takes the input voltage and drops it (Buck it) until the circuit records a particular current draw.
If the sensed current drops it will raise the voltage. If it increases it will drop the voltage.

ONLY catch to be aware of is that LDD's OUTPUT to the LED will only go up to the power supply output voltage minus 3-4Volts.
Max "allowed" voltage of a 48V ps is say 45V.
A 36 is 33.. THAT is why 48V was chose.. 33 too close to the COBs rating.

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Last edited by jeffkrol; 08-12-2020 at 09:47 PM. Reason: edit
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post #42 of 68 (permalink) Old 08-12-2020, 09:02 PM
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IF you wanted to, and trust me FEW would recommend this, and go "driverless" this is one way to do it.
Dimming becomes an issue though since most would not be able to handle 48v. inc your tc-421 w/ max voltage of 24V



47 Ohm 10 Watt resistors would be recommended and you are wasting power..57 Watts worth.

ACTUALLY w/ that set up one could use the 36V power supply..



IF one had a perfectly stable 33.7Volt power supply and perfectly cooled COBs (there are voltage changes creating higher current draw in an led as it heats) ,even the resistors wouldn't be need

"A man with a watch knows what time it is. A man with two watches is never sure"

Last edited by jeffkrol; 08-12-2020 at 09:15 PM. Reason: edit
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post #43 of 68 (permalink) Old 08-12-2020, 09:18 PM
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Thought of an easy way to explain it..
Your AC/DC power supply changes from 100/200 volts to 48 volts (ignore the TYPE of voltage for the moment).. the driver (a dc to dc power supply) changes the 48v to what is NEEDED to measure a particular current draw the circuit is designed for..

You basically gang 2 power supplies w/ 2 different functions.

For FUN..
IF you took your 36V power supply and tweaked it to output 34V you could use 1 Ohm 1/2 Watt resistors.
YES it says 1/4W I rounde up more..

Quote:
each 1 ohm resistor dissipates 122.5 mW
the wizard thinks 1/4W resistors are fine for your application Help
together, all resistors dissipate 1225 mW
together, the diodes dissipate 117950 mW
total power dissipated by the array is 119175 mW
the array draws current of 3500 mA from the source.

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post #44 of 68 (permalink) Old 08-20-2020, 01:20 PM Thread Starter
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They arrived..
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

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post #45 of 68 (permalink) Old 08-22-2020, 06:18 PM Thread Starter
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this is the plan to arrange the cobs

is that ok ? do i missing something?

does it will stick on the aluminium body only with the thermal paste?

the dimmer didn't arrived yet , can i connect and light the cobs without harming them?

https://ibb.co/602yjNV

Last edited by alfred3; 08-22-2020 at 06:33 PM. Reason: .
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