LDD is a horrible choice for BXRE's. They are 32-34V cobs each one. A realistic way is using a driver that supports 100V or more so you can run sets of 3 in series and then run the sets in parallel. 100v, 1-1.5 amp single driver is more than enough and realistically he's going to really be running at 1 amp.

Reworked it and in my humble opinion..
consider it an alternate configuration only..


BXRE-65S2001-C-74
2 rows of 3.. Let the 6500k's do the heavy lifting
21W nominal 34.4V 650mA.. Best to go around 500mA

BXRE-35S1001-C-73‎
3 rows of 2 for color.
12w nominal
360mA 33.7V




Bump: Depends on the controller.. most common ones are 5V PWM. You need to add extra circuitry (granted not hard) in the most cases though running a TC-420 native at 10v at least gets you 10V PWM output though .


It's not a "horrible" choice" at appox $6-7 per chip and one power supply.


There is no need to run them at 1A and then dim them 50%..
i'll do the math later but at my conservative drive currents the 6/4 array probably puts out 24,000 lumens over an 80gal tank.
don't get me wrong, I like your choice of drivers.. IF I ran an APEX..

O/P's already got parts... Let them decide.
Both work though still personally like to separate drivers (which seem to last forever) from ac/DC conversion which doesn't.,😄

Once again you are showing that you have not used the BXRE's. An S2001-C at 500ma is way way way too much light for a normal tank. Also, I am not suggesting he run the cobs at 1a and then dim them. The 1a is total across the entire array. In reality you would be running 3x S1001-C's in series for 100V. Then take those groups of 3x and run them all in parallel. S1001-C are dirt cheap at $3 each so you can run more of them for way more spread. 2x rows of 12 S1001-C's will blanket that tank with light with as little as 100v/1a of total power usage. Each cob will get ~0.84a of current at 32V.

Also, adding the 3500K for a fake sunset and sunrise will really do nothing for the plants themselves. a 2:1 ratio of of 6500/5000K gets him 100 CRI @ 6000K. That will do way more than a fake sunrise and sunset for 30 mins.

ELG-150-C1400AB can run that entire array at less than $40 and then he can add whatever controller he wants if he chooses to whether do pwm or 10v.

To be honest I’m more confused now .. I am for sure want something that is a little over power and be able to dim it if it will be necessary, better than an option that I will be stocked with something that now giving me much lighted tank . regarding the dimmer I would like something that I can control remotely by wifi but in the other hand I would like some thing relabel. I love the look of good lighted tank closer to a day/cool white with a touch of warm white. I my opinion little touch of blue and red make a good appearance of the plants and fish , I now that is not necessary for plants growing but at the end visuality is important . btw I an not from us and I use not 110v I use 220v.

Voltage won't matter much on the ac end since so many are universal. DC knows no country so things like the Meanwell LDD's work everywhere...


The Bridgelux or my luxeon fresh fish satisfies that.
You do need to keep in mind that white LED's have a ton of blue.
7000k/660nm is also a crisp white color w/ lots of pop as well.




Which was the point of the 3500k COBs.. A size smaller than the 6500k's and 4 vs 6 for the cool white ones..
You may only run them 10% during peak photosynthesis (for looks) which is why I boosted the 6500k's
6 of those alone should give you lots of PAR.
Point is at $3 each they are a bit err disposable. Yea need to by 4 $7 drivers as well but the ps stays the same.
$40 color add on.. FEW if any would argue about adding warm whites to a cool white array...for the plants .
Many 3500k leds in the past had HORRIBLE color rendering but by using the Thrive line you shouldn't have that.






You should build it so there is a gap beteen rows so worse comes to worse you jut fill it..
Best thing about DIY, allowing for expansion..



____cw....ww....cw....ww....cw_________
__..add any ancillary colors you like here.__

____cw....ww....cw....ww....cw_________


Bluefish mini is a nice controller but very limited in programming morning noon sunset night type.
Uses the cloud and has been reliable for me. Installing via Blynk was a nightmare though.

AFAICT most of those Chinese strip dimmers can be hacked like the TC-420. Just add a wire to the gate of the MOSFET and you get 5V PWM output.

If necessary you can convert 5V PWM to 0-10V analog.

Oh another option is a boost driver.
Can convert a 12V switching power supply to up to 86V @500mA for only $10..
so 2 cobs per driver.
https://www.ledsupply.com/led-driver...-up-boost-mode

Not really much of a difference over separate LDD drivers though.

PWM To Voltage Converter Module 0%-100% to 0-10V for Digital to Analog Signal

When i built my first DIY led panel I used the cheapest material available, not the most reliable. I understood that this would be a learning process and I did not want to invest too much. Once I built and used it for a few weeks I got more confidence to buy better Quality stuff because I know I would not mess it up. The "FIRST" time is always the hardest

Start with a simple design. Just on and off should be good. Once you figure that out, add dimming or other features as you like. Doing everything at once, the first time will be difficult and confusing.

And you haven't used SORRA's 5000k, Fresh fish COB's, Luminus devices COB's or 6500k sunplus diodes..
I can read spec sheets and spectrums..
I never shhot for least amount of potential favoring coverage and room for error..

not sure why you consider it "fake"?
Normalized 3500k spectrum vs one moment of sunset..
Granted a lot of room for error but the trend is what is important..
Lot of deep red and some 700nm plus to boot. Scales a bit off ect.




sorry, just love this pic..

bar to the left of the first "yellowish" (prob close to 4000k) one is prob about 5000k, next to it about 6500k..plus or minus a group
sunset is listed at 2800-3400K..can't get myself to "push" lower than 3500k

Simulation data.. All diodes run at 100%
3:2 ratio.


Assumption 2787 lumens and 1400 lumens per cw/ww cob respectively.

You know what I said about blues earlier.. weel ignore it in this case.
Looks like a strip of small blue diodes (about 30W worth..) at about 460nm would actually help..

how about combining all 3 ? 6000/5000/3000?

what about power supply how strong will i need to purchase ?

48v say about 10 x 500 mA... 5A.


250 Watts
You can refine it by using actual V(f) and mA's
As an example say 34v @ .5A = 17w *10 = 170w power supply.

Yes because an led that already has a cri of 97-98 along with an r9 of the same now suddenly has a cri of 90 when combined with another led of the same spec. But sure let's use bogus simulation data.

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You missed a part...



CRI is calculated different for different ranges of spectrums..
It is also becoming obsolete..

You know it's pretty funny considering I pretty much harped on CRI while you ignored it or criticized it in the past (especially w/ the "fresh fish") when I told you CREE were junk.
Seems in some parallel universe you have become me..

BTW CRI calcs use only the first 8 swatches.

SKIPPING the blue but dimming the 3500k down to 25%



Maybe we should talk CYAN.. Bridgelux has a ton of it.. thus the high CRI for the most part..
seem to recall you not be enamored about it in the past.

Your light.. It just gets a bit more complicated w/ COB's vs smaller emitters since each is a "spotlight" so to speak.

Crunching the numbers on my "fake" calculator tells me you really don't gain any benefits

This is absolutely going nowhere. At the end of the day we never going to agree on lighting as while I like to go the practical route and see what sticks all you do is spout simulation data and specs.

This is the ops first build and you want to send him down the rabbit hole of complex mixes and electronics so that he will basically just forget about it and go with something practical like buying an off the shelf light.

At the end of the day sunrises, sunsets, ramps, and all this other stuff you like does nothing better for the actual matter at hand which is growing plants in a glass box filled with water. All you need is on/off and whatever look the op wants out of his lights which actually if it were up to him would be the Ada solar RGB as that is his preferred look. So that's easily accomplished with some Steve's LEDs tristars RGB in antidisco along a bar and that's it.

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