DIY regulator - newbie questions - Page 2 - The Planted Tank Forum
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post #16 of 35 (permalink) Old 07-04-2020, 10:08 PM
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It is the case relate to what most likely happen, if chasing the absolute, nothing is 100% bullet proof. Even a safety relief valve doesn't guarantee a non-catastrophic event before the pressure high enough to push through, if the rising pressure going downstream due to regulator failure.


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post #17 of 35 (permalink) Old 07-05-2020, 02:25 AM
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When speaking of pressure releases, the low pressure gauge will certainly be one item to let off the pressure if it gets above the low gauges limit. A popoff valve would possibly act to save the gauge, if it was quick enough but then we are only speaking of saving a 10-15 dollar gauge so whether we need to repair/replace on or the other, it's not really all that big a deal after the reg has lost the diaphragm!
Kind of like wondering how to save the hubcaps if we drive into a truck!
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post #18 of 35 (permalink) Old 07-05-2020, 05:16 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PlantedRich View Post
When speaking of pressure releases, the low pressure gauge will certainly be one item to let off the pressure if it gets above the low gauges limit. A popoff valve would possibly act to save the gauge, if it was quick enough but then we are only speaking of saving a 10-15 dollar gauge so whether we need to repair/replace on or the other, it's not really all that big a deal after the reg has lost the diaphragm!
Kind of like wondering how to save the hubcaps if we drive into a truck!

Note: earlier version before changing it to pre-solenoid..
I tried to explain MY logic for what "I" do no more no less..





BTW.. over pressuring an atomizer.. Just ended poppping a pinhole leak. Ran it at 50psi-ish



Consider it just a suggestion. chances are low (or about equal to any other regulator disaster)..
NOW it certainly isn't fair to compare Milwaukee single stage to what "we" generally use but it does demonstate a principal..
Quote:
Hi,
I have the Milwaukee Regulator and that past couple days the pressure has risen after it turns off (I realize this might be caused by the ambient room temp dropping over night, the past few nights have been in the lower 30's). When it is running it shows no pressure.
With the increased pressure (approximately 10 psi), when it switches on in the AM, it goes nuts (major bubbles) and pushes a lot of CO2, and I turn the regulator knob to stop the flow.
I have a Redsea 800. The increased pressure has blown off the bottom of the reactor. And I do believe the oil slick I've been seeing the last week is caused by mineral oil being blown thru when it is first turned on.

Oh forgot to mention that if one wants to bleed the pressure from the reg. pulling the relief valve makes that quite simple.. when it's in the right spot

Note: I also use hose rated at 60psi-ish, well actually rated 50psi, see not totally paranoid.
CONCOA
http://www.concoa.com/docs/ADIS/ADI2062.pdf
Quote:
RELIEF VALVE. Some regulators are equipped with a relief valve. The purpose of a relief valve is to protect the regulator and it components. If there is pressure sensitive equipment downstream of the regulator it is recommended that a relief valve be installed in the line to protect this equipment.
YMMV...

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Last edited by jeffkrol; 07-05-2020 at 05:36 AM. Reason: edit
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post #19 of 35 (permalink) Old 07-05-2020, 09:57 PM Thread Starter
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I learnt a lot from this thread! Now I even have more questions:
1. Let's say the 2nd stage fails to regulate and also fails to vent the high pressure, the break point will be most likely at the tubing or diffuser since they are usually rated lower in psi than the rest of the set up and most brass fittings are rated at 1000psi and class 150 stainless steel at 300psi, am I right?. How likely is it to actually shoot out something else in the set up?
2. Since I plan to connect the out port of the reg to the solenoid manifold using a long nipple, I can use a tee instead and add a pressure relief valve for $5-$10 just for extra safety, which psi of the valve should I go with?
3. Can I use brass/nickel plate and stainless steel fittings together? I couldnt find a stainless steel pressure relief valve within a reasonable price range
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post #20 of 35 (permalink) Old 07-05-2020, 10:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lk7630 View Post
2.which psi of the valve should I go with?
https://compressor-source.com/produc...lief-valve-kit
Pick one..
There are 0-100psi adj. ones

Well doesn't offer the bleed down convenience though.

I had a hard time choosing if I should get an adjustable one or not.
Personally 50 or 60psi would be fine. If you use a reactor or any low pressure outputs one could go much lower..
I guess if you did it "professionally" one would want something like 10psi less than the most susceptible piece.
Generally that will be hoses/fittings..
If you get an adj one just run the system and adj. till vents.. back off 10psi or so.



Quote:
Originally Posted by lk7630 View Post
3. Can I use brass/nickel plate and stainless steel fittings together? I couldn't find a stainless steel pressure relief valve within a reasonable price range
Yea that is an issue for "glam" regs..
I run brass/ss w/ no issues.
Suppose the worst part would be harder male threads going into the softer brass.
A little pipe dope w/ PTFE in it may be best.

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post #21 of 35 (permalink) Old 07-10-2020, 01:36 PM Thread Starter
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Thank you. Quick question: the dry red sealant that came pre-applied on the thread how does it work and is there a way to remove it?
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post #22 of 35 (permalink) Old 07-10-2020, 03:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lk7630 View Post
Thank you. Quick question: the dry red sealant that came pre-applied on the thread how does it work and is there a way to remove it?
some of them had nothing. A few had red, just left it on.

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post #23 of 35 (permalink) Old 07-10-2020, 10:41 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeffkrol View Post
some of them had nothing. A few had red, just left it on.
If I leave it on it would be hard to remove the fitting wouldnt it?
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post #24 of 35 (permalink) Old 07-18-2020, 01:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bettatail View Post
1. water inside is fine, when the regulator connects to the co2 tank with CGA320, a couple on/off long blast of co2 will push water out.

2. prs3032 is the same as Matheson 3810 and prs3013 is matheson 3120, see picture below, a matheson 3810 https://cuteplushies.net/.

3. normal/cheap brass or forged 304 stainless steel pipe fittings are at least 150 psi max rating, they are fine as working on outlet size of the regulator, but recommend the good fittings, swagelok or equivalent.

Thanks for wonderful answer, i have pne question if we fill tanks with 100 psi regulator then?
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post #25 of 35 (permalink) Old 07-22-2020, 12:04 AM Thread Starter
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I have one with a broken 1st stage (LPG keeps increasing, it seems to be a faulty poppet or seat) and one with broken 2nd stage (leaks very slowly - i guess it's the diaphragm, still testing to confirm). I want to see if I can make a working unit out of the 2. What is the right way to take it apart? I used a vise grip and various adjustable clamp/pliers to take a scrap unit apart and it's pretty hard. I dont want to damage it. After taking the housing off (2nd stage), I could remove the spring, diaphragm but I coulnt find a way to remove the poppet. Do I need to access it through the 1st stage chamber?
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post #26 of 35 (permalink) Old 07-22-2020, 05:00 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lk7630 View Post
I have one with a broken 1st stage (LPG keeps increasing, it seems to be a faulty poppet or seat) and one with broken 2nd stage (leaks very slowly - i guess it's the diaphragm, still testing to confirm). I want to see if I can make a working unit out of the 2. What is the right way to take it apart? I used a vise grip and various adjustable clamp/pliers to take a scrap unit apart and it's pretty hard. I dont want to damage it. After taking the housing off (2nd stage), I could remove the spring, diaphragm but I coulnt find a way to remove the poppet. Do I need to access it through the 1st stage chamber?
On some it looks like it..
victor:

"A man with a watch knows what time it is. A man with two watches is never sure"
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post #27 of 35 (permalink) Old 07-24-2020, 02:19 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeffkrol View Post
On some it looks like it..
victor:
I'll to take the 1st stage housing off. Gotta use the heavy duty vise at my workplace. I broke my light duty one.

I am also trying to find a bubble counter+check valve with 1/8npt thread but all the listings on flea bay they never mention the thread if it's BSP or NPT
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post #28 of 35 (permalink) Old 07-24-2020, 05:12 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lk7630 View Post
I'll to take the 1st stage housing off. Gotta use the heavy duty vise at my workplace. I broke my light duty one.

I am also trying to find a bubble counter+check valve with 1/8npt thread but all the listings on flea bay they never mention the thread if it's BSP or NPT

Personally I'd recommend just a bubble counter.
Built in check valves (or any check valve) can easily become problematic.
I know doesn't look pretty, most plain bubble counters are in line not hard plumbed.


1/8 EXPENSIVE bc but also still has a check valve


264491900608
https://www.nilocg.com/shop/advanced...lator-mounted/
Even this doesn't list the thread type.
https://www.bigalspets.com/ista-2-in...html?sku=80060
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07WCNBNMC...xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==


Would it kill them to tell the thread size?

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post #29 of 35 (permalink) Old 07-24-2020, 12:26 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeffkrol View Post
Personally I'd recommend just a bubble counter.
Built in check valves (or any check valve) can easily become problematic.
I know doesn't look pretty, most plain bubble counters are in line not hard plumbed.


1/8 EXPENSIVE bc but also still has a check valve


264491900608
https://www.nilocg.com/shop/advanced...lator-mounted/
Even this doesn't list the thread type.
https://www.bigalspets.com/ista-2-in...html?sku=80060
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07WCNBNMC...xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==


Would it kill them to tell the thread size?
How bad it is to thread 1/8male bsp to 1/8 FNPT? Maybe I'll just go with push-to-connect , inline bubble counter and a hard tube to connect them
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post #30 of 35 (permalink) Old 07-24-2020, 01:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lk7630 View Post
How bad it is to thread 1/8male bsp to 1/8 FNPT? Maybe I'll just go with push-to-connect , inline bubble counter and a hard tube to connect them
Doesn't work at all. Accidentally ordered a BSPT solenoid.. No matter what I did it failed.
Maybe a large amount of anaerobic pipe compound but do not recommend it.
Sad thing is they go together 18bspt/1/8npt quite easily for a ways.

"A man with a watch knows what time it is. A man with two watches is never sure"
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