Which Filter Housing for a DIY Cerges Co2 Reactor? - The Planted Tank Forum
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  • 2 Post By sdwindansea
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post #1 of 6 (permalink) Old 04-11-2018, 02:06 PM Thread Starter
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Which Filter Housing for a DIY Cerges Co2 Reactor?

I know there are numerous threads on this general topic, so I apologize if this is redundant. I've been researching available commercial products as well as DIY plans for a pressurized Co2 setup on my 50 gal. planted community tank. I've decided I would like to incorporate an inline Co2 reactor. However, I've gotten to the point/conclusion that the commercially available reactors are poor quality and have performance issues. Now Ive been looking into the DIY Cerges reactors, using a clear home water filtration housing, and running a tube down into the chamber from inside the main inlet. I found one such housing (Pentek 158117 1/4" #10 Slimline Clear Filter Housing) on Amazon. However, some of the reviews state that it leaks from the pressure relief valve as the pressure increases. My first question is about the pressure relief valve. Is it necessary and beneficial? Otherwise, are all commercially available house filter housings pretty much the same? Any suggestions?
I'm also hoping to place the reactor inline from my Eheim 2217 Classic (12/16mm return hose) canister filter, with a T fitting inlet for the Co2. Is a model with this 1/4" female inlet/outlet workable with fittings for my application? Is it advisable to use the canister filter? Thanks!
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post #2 of 6 (permalink) Old 04-11-2018, 03:47 PM
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I'm definitely going to follow this one as I'm starting to think about a Cerges reactor build as well. I current have a Griggs but it is a pain in the *** during canister cleaning (I have to drain it). That being said, not everyone has this issue. Some people are also able to get around this by temporarily inverting their reactor when starting the filter back up.

I believe that Pentek slimline only has 1/4" fittings which are probably way to restrictive. However, a lot of the housing with 3/4" fittings have much smaller flow inside the housing. My biggest fear with building a Cerges reactor is too much restriction of flow.

I would not consider a housing without the pressure relief valve based on my experiences with the Griggs reactor. It will also help purge any trapped air/CO2 if needed. Sorry I can't really answer any of your other questions.
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post #3 of 6 (permalink) Old 04-11-2018, 08:52 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for your help. Today I visited my LFS, as I have also been consulting with them (and anyone else who'll listen to me!). Their resident Co2 expert steered me toward the Two Little Fishies ATLPBR150 GFO PhosBan Reactor 150 as a Co2 reactor. He even put together an inline PVC tee connection with hose barbs and a venturi type inlet for the co2 conection. The 2 Little Fishies reactor looked like a quality build. Any one use it for this purpose? He also suggested I put some bio-balls in the reactor. Now it would not be much DIY, and It is a little pricey @ $50 +, but worth it to me if it works, is of quality (& doesn't leak!). Thoughts?
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post #4 of 6 (permalink) Old 04-11-2018, 09:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sdwindansea View Post
I'm definitely going to follow this one as I'm starting to think about a Cerges reactor build as well. I current have a Griggs but it is a pain in the *** during canister cleaning (I have to drain it). That being said, not everyone has this issue. Some people are also able to get around this by temporarily inverting their reactor when starting the filter back up....
Just like to offer a tip because I feel your pain, this is what works for me - After cleaning my canister (Eheim 2217), I pour my remineralized RODI water from my 5 gallon bucket directly into the open canister until it's filled to where it was when I pulled the head off. I then replace the head, get everything hooked back up, then I pull my outlet out of the tank and put it in a 5 gallon bucket on the floor with all the shut-offs wide open. A siphon starts immediately, pulling water out of the tank and through the whole system. I then plug the canister back in and let it purge air for a few seconds with the outlet still in the bucket, then close the flow on the output of the canister, stick the outlet back in the tank and open the output hose back up. Good to go! It took me a bit of experimenting to figure out this method, but it's the easiest I've found and works every time.
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post #5 of 6 (permalink) Old 04-11-2018, 09:36 PM
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Thanks @mgeorges, I may try that next time (or the time after). I'm planning on a good hose cleaning/replacement during the next canister maintenance so I'll already have everything drained. My issue with your method is the way I have everything plumbed on the output side of the filter. There is very little "wiggle room" between the reactor, inline heater and custom PVC spray-bar plumbing.

@JimTemp, I really do not have any experience with that reactor. You may want to search this forum a bit to see if anyone else does. That being said, I've never heard of anyone stating that one of these types of reactors is better than a Griggs or Cerges style reactor. Furthermore, depending on the size of your tank they may not work well at all.

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post #6 of 6 (permalink) Old 04-12-2018, 09:21 PM Thread Starter
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I really don't see why this reactor wouldn't work.
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