DIY LED Planning and Parts - The Planted Tank Forum
 
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post #1 of 7 (permalink) Old 01-03-2018, 07:49 PM Thread Starter
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DIY LED Planning and Parts

I'm looking at making a DIY LED for a 40 Breeder and I've picked out a few components and am trying to figure out a few more for what I am planning for. I know I want to use the Bridgelux EB Gen 2 LED strips that I plan on mounting to a small heatsink and then under a wood fixture I have an idea for. The Bridgelux only come in 3000, 3500, 4000, 5000, and 5700K temperatures - because of this I wanted to add in some RGB or coloured LED strips that can run at the 20V and 700ma the bridgelux do to make it easier to run. I'm hoping this will add some of the red and blue that might be missing from the Bridgelux. Anyone have an idea on what I could use for this?

I'm also trying to figure out what kind of power supply, drivers and dimming I need, I want just basic dimming with a timer. For this I'm looking at Meanwell LDDs, a Meanwell powersupply, and the TC420 for dimming and timer.
I have 5.25 amps at 20V for the Bridgelux LEDs plus the RGB or coloured strips.

Is there a board for the LDDs that I could use for multiple channels?
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post #2 of 7 (permalink) Old 01-03-2018, 07:57 PM
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MeanWell Drivers has driver boards and drivers at a fair price.
LDD's can be had just under $5 from Allied but minimum is 10.

Can you series 2 together and use 48VDC power supply?

Going to mod the TC420 I suppose. 4 or 5 channels I think.


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post #3 of 7 (permalink) Old 01-03-2018, 08:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Aurust View Post
I'm looking at making a DIY LED for a 40 Breeder and I've picked out a few components and am trying to figure out a few more for what I am planning for. I know I want to use the Bridgelux EB Gen 2 LED strips that I plan on mounting to a small heatsink and then under a wood fixture I have an idea for. The Bridgelux only come in 3000, 3500, 4000, 5000, and 5700K temperatures - because of this I wanted to add in some RGB or coloured LED strips that can run at the 20V and 700ma the bridgelux do to make it easier to run. I'm hoping this will add some of the red and blue that might be missing from the Bridgelux. Anyone have an idea on what I could use for this?

I'm also trying to figure out what kind of power supply, drivers and dimming I need, I want just basic dimming with a timer. For this I'm looking at Meanwell LDDs, a Meanwell powersupply, and the TC420 for dimming and timer.
I have 5.25 amps at 20V for the Bridgelux LEDs plus the RGB or coloured strips.

Is there a board for the LDDs that I could use for multiple channels?
First:
Driver board:
https://www.rapidled.com/ldd-h-4s-driver-board/
Why? Jumpers for pulldown resistor instead of permanent..
Quote:
coloured LED strips that can run at the 20V and 700ma the bridgelux do to make it easier to run.
Yea that's not going to happen really..

Using a tc-420 you got 5 channels and you can dim multiple LDD's per channel.
Also you can run both constant current and constant voltage off one channel..a bit complicated but not hard..

But you can build your own..Well Steves to your specs..
3-up and 14-up Boards

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post #4 of 7 (permalink) Old 01-03-2018, 09:44 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks, the driver board looks perfect for what I am doing. For the Steves LED boards, the only thing I would be worried about is that across the tank with only single LEDs I would get hot spots of a certain colour. Would trying to tie in a number of the 3 tristars work better to counteract this?
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post #5 of 7 (permalink) Old 01-03-2018, 10:01 PM
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Tri-stars help.. any RGB combo = white..
Height off tank to blend also helps a lot..

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post #6 of 7 (permalink) Old 01-05-2018, 06:58 PM Thread Starter
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I'm was planning on having the light pretty close to the top of the tank with about 16" to the substrate. Hopefully this won't cause to much coloured spots.

What are the benefits and drawbacks of wiring in series versus parallel and constant current and constant voltage?
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post #7 of 7 (permalink) Old 01-06-2018, 08:56 PM
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LEDs are designed to run at a particular current, not a constant voltage, so use constant current drivers. Constant voltage is sort of irrelevant for our purposes.

Series strings work best, and are pretty much the standard. Higher voltage COB types are a little tricky to string along in series, so often you see them with a dedicated driver per COB, but on smaller 3-5W types you can chain them along pretty well.

Parallel connection is not recommended, except in conditions where some sort of current mirror circuit is used. Best to run a separate driver per string for optimum results.


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